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  2. Hi, can I use the USB to connect to midi In on a Korg synth thanks Tim
  3. Yesterday
  4. Awesome, once again, Brad! Thanks so much for your time and details here for me. Cheers! James
  5. PX-560 has a 48 part sound generator. General MIDI can only access 16 at a time. Port A is the way to access the 16 parts used for local control of keyboard performance parts like upper and lower tones and rhythms.
  6. I don’t see how a reply would help. Shaunaflynn’s post was done in good faith but without realizing that Gary hasn’t been here in many years. He won’t be answering and I doubt he will even see it.
  7. Awesome! Thanks for the quick reply and answer, Brad. But is it really just as simple as that? If you have a spare moment, could you expand on why this is, so that I may learn and understand? I'm pretty well versed and experienced in almost all things MIDI, but when there's 3 different sets/groups/mixers, it can be confusing and even a bit overwhelming at times to know what to choose - and when. James
  8. You will want to set MIDI input port to A to get the same sound you hear when you play PX-560 locally.
  9. Did you know you could share all of these as registration setup files?
  10. Hello All, I like the piano sounds on my Casio PX 560M Privia, [which I bought new a few years ago now]. They’re really quite good. But when I play the actual PX 560M keyboard, I get a different sounding patch than when I play the same assigned Casio piano patch triggered from another external digital MIDI 88 keyboard. [There are no issues with the MIDI transmission of notes on/off, velocity, and sustain pedal CC64 messages being received whatsoever - all work/transmit fine. It has also never been taken out of home to a gig, nor had any one else touch or mess with it - only me.] I have the incoming MIDI channel set to ‘C’ [default] in the settings and in the mixer. But it just doesn’t sound the same, even when I go into the 3 mixers and set the piano patch I like in both ‘A’ and ‘C’ in the mixer itself. [I'm using the 'LA Piano' patch.] With proper external Allen & Heath QU16 Mixer settings and tweaking, I've got it sounding excellent - but again, only when I play the Casio keyboard itself directly. I've tried saving to a few separate Registrations as well. Am I missing something? Do I need to change the incoming MIDI channel setting to ‘A’, instead of ‘C’? Or Possibly 'B'? [I learned many years ago of what ‘Local On/Off’ does and means, so I'm also wondering if that’s something else to consider toggling in the settings menu.] So, in summary: My goal, desire, and quest here, is to have the external digital 88 MIDI piano trigger/sound the same patches/sounds that I hear when playing the Casio keyboard itself. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you, James
  11. A good Easter to you also @Rookierafa and I'm sure we'll get this sorted. Will post more thoroughly later (just got home from work, rather tired) but two types of transistor are "ordinary" bipolar ones with the base etc and FETs with drain etc. The power amp has its own supply that doesn't run through the 7815/7915 regulators. It's the outputs at the top of the PSU diagram on the right labelled +VA and -VB on the diagram (but apparently +VA and -VA on the actual PCB.
  12. An old model but lid closure problem needs resolving. Ways to or ideas on how to remove panel to access rollers. Bolts removed but unable to remove front cover strip or hinged top/back panel. Is there a locking device or push fit catch etc
  13. I whish you all a good Easter with your families, and thank you again for keeping helping me on this adventure to repair the Casiotone. I already checked for visible defects, found a capacitor with bad soldering bed and repaired it, but the power still stops somewhere. Made a continuity test in the main board for the ground rail and everything is grounded. Started to check the negative rail, but when arrives to the main board it splits in different directions and since the board is big I loose myself some times. I looked into the schematic and found that some transistors are labeled with "base, emitter and collector" but there are 3 of them that are labeled with "ground, supply and drain". I suppose this mean some difference exists between them. Can anybody enlighten me? Anyway I restarted to measure some stuff and found that the negative rail have power in some places on the main board, I found -15V on the connector with the Yellow/20pin cable and it is feeding pin 1 and 3 of the STK020 power amp and have 2 caps connected on the negative side to the ground. But the connector with the brown/19pin cable doesn't show values is just 0V. The first components I found in the path are some resistors and 2 transistors T08 and T27. And that's it. I am still waiting for a component tester I ordered, maybe next week is here. And I hope I can count with your help to figure it out because I don't have enough knowledge or experience to do it by myself.
  14. @Shaunaflynn Are you going to reply to Alen?
  15. I'm curious why you quoted a post from 2015 just to summarize what the post said. You added no new information, asked no questions, and the last sentence does not make sense.
  16. Dream Theater CASIO CTX800 Sound Presets Hello everyone, here are some presets that I made inspired by the dream theater keyboard sounds, most of these sounds sound too good on the Casio CTX800 if you know how to put the indicated sounds with the layer, split and other options. It has the same keyboard built in, so there will be a lot of symbols but don't worry because I will leave what each acronym or symbols mean explained in the next line: Tch=touch, Rvb=Reverb, Chr=Chorus, EQ=Equalizer, Ux;000+/-A = U1/2;numbers3digits+/-Octaves, Splt;000+/-A;Nt=SplitOnBassSide-Numbers3digits+/-Octaves;Note Once this has been explained, here are the presets and their symbolic indications. 1. Piano Bright: U1;005+0 U2;003+0 Tch-4 Rvb-15 Chr-2 EQ-6 2. Piano Wait for Sleep: U1;014+0 U2;005+0 Tch-4 Rvb-15 Chr-2 EQ-6 3. Change of Season Intro Set: U1;013+0 U2;052+1 Splt;335+2;F3 Tch-4 Rvb-11 Chr-1 EQ-6 4. Metropolis Pt1. Intro Set: U1;340+0 U2;341+0 Splt;008-1;F4 Tch-1 Rvb-15 Chr-3 EQ-6 5. I&W Strings Set 1 (Pad): U1;327+0 U2;187-1 Splt;194+0;C4 Tch-2 Rvb-15 Chr-4 EQ-6 6. I&W Strings Set 2 (Synth): U1;187+0 U2;328-1 Tch-3 Rvb-15 Chr-5 EQ-6 7. Metropolis Pt.1 Interlude Set: U1;524-3 U2;543-2 Splt;189+0;C4 Tch-2 Rvb-2 Chr-1 EQ-6 8. Metropolis Pt.1 Strings Hit Layer Set: U1;183-1 U2;195-2 Tch-1 Rvb-13 Chr-1 EQ-6 9. Overture 1928 Intro Set: U1;190-1or+0 U2;118-3 Splt;260+2;F#3 Tch-1 Rvb-2 Chr-1 EQ-6 10. Overture 1928 Brass/String Orch. Set: U1;190-1 U2;187-1 Splt;231+1;C4 Tch-1 Rvb-11 Chr-1 EQ-6 11. Overture 1928 Synth Bass/Synth Pad Set: U1;347+0 U2;188-1 Splt;145-2;F4 Tch-1 Rvb-15 Chr-8 EQ-6 12. Orch. Strings Duet Solo: U1;196+0 U2;198+0 Tch-3 Rvb-11 Chr-1 EQ-6 13. Rudess Orch. Strings: U1;187+0 U2;183-1 Tch-2 Rvb-11 Chr-1 EQ-6 14. Strings/Choirs Set: U1;337-1 U2;335-1 Splt;183+0;C4 Tch-2 Rvb-11 Chr-1 EQ-6 15. Strings/Harpsichord Set: U1;019+0 U2;018+0 Splt;336+2;C4 Tch-1 Rvb-11 Chr-1 EQ-6 16. Baroque Pipe Organ: U1;456+0 U2;057+0 Tch-2 Rvb-11 Chr-1 EQ-6 17. Hammond Organ OD: U1;059+0 U2;066+1 Tch-1 Rvb-6 Chr-10 EQ-6 18. Orch. Flute Solo: U1;510+0 U2;255+0 Tch-2 Rvb-13 Chr-1 EQ-6 19. Home Dist Guit./Sitar+Tabla: U1;367+0 U2;385+0 Splt;129+0;C5 Tch-2 Rvb-13 Chr-1 EQ-6 20. I&W Bells Set: U1;343+0 U2;362+0 Tch-4 Rvb-13 Chr-4 EQ-6 21. Metropolis Pt.1 Percussive Vibe 1: U1;376+0 U2;543-1 Tch-1 Rvb-1 Chr-1 EQ-6 22. Metropolis Pt.1 Percussive Vibe 2: U1;450-1 U2;543-2 Tch-1 Rvb-2 Chr-8 EQ-6 23. Overture 1928 Dist Guit./Percussive Vibe: U1;408-1 U2;448+0 Splt;129-1;C4 Tch-1 Rvb-6 Chr-1 EQ-6 24. I&W Saw Lead Main: U1;273+0 U2;287+0 Tch-1 Rvb-19 Chr-8 EQ-6 25. I&W Saw Lead for Unison with Guitar: U1;272+0 Tch-1 Rvb-13 Chr-1 EQ-6 26. I&W Square Lead: U1;517+0 U2;293+0 Tch-1 Rvb-8 Chr-8 EQ-6 27. I&W Sine Glide Lead: U1;273+0 U2;292+0 Tch-1 Rvb-2 Chr-8 EQ-6 28. I&W Roland DW8000 Lead Style: U1;289+0 U2;274+0 Tch-3 Rvb-15 Chr-4 EQ-6 29. Rudess Liquid Lead Style: U1;273+0 U2;274+0 Tch-1 Rvb-11 Chr-9 EQ-6 30. (Bonus) Jazz Fusion EP: U1;441+0 U2;022+0 Tch-4 Rvb-9 Chr-1 EQ-6 PDT: There are some sounds (specifically the Lead Synth) that have a good sound as such, but when playing lead sounds of any type, most of the time they sound very good because of the monophonic option (which this keyboard does not include) and many times with the keyboards monophonic playing leads is much easier because of the technique itself, so with the CTX you can at least have the base sounds but not the monophonic function to play comfortably, nothing is perfect haha but at least there is something to work with, many of these presets are designed in the same way to be used with the sustain pedal, the order of the presets can be put to the user's liking in the order and in the banks they want, and finally you may notice some discrepancies of volumes between preset and preset, I don't know why that is but it's not a big problem, it could really be solved with a full range compressor in pedal or plugin format that does the same, now enjoy the information.
  17. Sounds like you really enjoyed the Grand Piano Concert 001, especially the EPs and acoustic bass with your Yamaha sub. The accordion family instruments are surprisingly good, but the jazz guitars are weak as you mentioned. While the acoustic guitars sound typical for digital pianos, the addition of count-offs is a nice touch. They definitely improve after all these years if you could only get their latest work.
  18. Measuring -15V on a positive voltage sounds very malicious. My Nokia 417TV (low emission SVGA CRT monitor with high resolution PAL TV) had an atrocious design flaw the destroys irreplaceable special ICs. Namely in the power supply of the TV PCB it contains a positive and a negative voltage regulator. The positive regulator LM2940CT has an awful feature because it was designed to be also suitable for battery chargers, and so for safety (to protect against wrongways battery insertion) turns itself off if during power-on it detects any negative voltage residue on its positive voltage output. So if e.g. by moisture or leaky capacitors that line goes only slightly negative, it will selfdestruct because it output no positive voltage, and so current through the rest of the circuit pulls it even further negative, destroying the RGB amp IC and TV section microcontroller (which is impossible to find).
  19. Unfortunately this model doesn't have a balance or mixer control.
  20. Last week
  21. We fixed it! I honeslty dont know how, but we did! This thread did help!
  22. Did anyone manage to remove the panels to access lid runners. I have same problem and removed all the screws but no luck. Appreciate any help please
  23. We are having this same issue... is there a specific combination to try??
  24. I have the casio wk 200 and the sustain feature is almost non existent....does anyone else have this issue? Also, can the volume for the dual tones be adjusted independently? For example: I want the piano tone to be louder than the strings tone.
  25. Well, I'm a beginner, and everyone's adaptability is different. I like CTS very much, and I will work hard to improve my skills. I checked Yamaha and Roland digital pianos, and they are almost the same size as the acoustic piano (12key≈165mm). My question is the casio digital piano similar in size to the acoustic piano or similar to the CTS? (My English is not good, I am using translation software. If I offend everyone, please forgive me. Thank you everyone.)
  26. Well, I'm a beginner, and everyone's adaptability is different. I like CTS very much, and I will work hard to improve my skills. I checked Yamaha and Roland digital pianos, and they are almost the same size as the acoustic piano (12key≈165mm). My question is the casio digital piano similar in size to the acoustic piano or similar to the CTS? (My English is not good, I am using translation software. If I offend everyone, please forgive me. Thank you everyone .)
  27. Hi there Sunshine. The CT-S1 is a quality instrument with a great keybed for the price and, with respect, I think you are seeing ghosts with regard key size. Casio have done a good job of cutting away the fat and concentrating on squeezing the important things into it. The soundset, on the whole, is fantastic for the money. A few questionable choices but the meat and potatoes of where it is aimed at are surprisingly good matched with a keyboard better than most simple MIDI controllers costing similar money. They've even thrown in a decent GM soundset with very little fanfare. Beyond the 'buttons' and main sounds available, the interface can appear a little arcane but I personally like the lack of clutter. It mamkes it 'feel' like a true instrument if that makes any sense? The most used functions, via the kehboard, soon become second nature after dipping into the manual a few times an printing off the reference pages from the manual. If you can check one out I'd highly recommend you do so. If it only had the piano and electric piano sounds in I would still have thought it was a bargain. I almost paid slightly less for a MIDI controller and the keyboard wasn't a patch on the one in the CT-S1. Regards, FIAW.
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