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About Jokeyman123

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    Milford, PA
  • Interests
    Music-performing, composition, arranging all instruments, all styles
    Electronics and computer technology
    kayaking, fishing, woodworking

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  1. One little trick you'll want to be aware of-the PX350 gave me all kinds of trouble with the midi DIN ports until I discovered one very important detail-you must remove the thumb drive, or at least make sure it is unmounted. If a thumb drive plugged in when you power up, assume it's mounted. I have quite a few posts about this in the PX350 forum here. Apparently a thumb drive, which can be directly accessed through a computer usb connection with a computer while the thumb drive is connected to the PX350, will interfere with direct control from another midi device connected through the midi din ports. I have used the PX350 as a sound module driven by a computer or hardware sequencer and it will respond on all 16 tracks-how it responds to another midi keyboard as far as control change messages (bank, program etc.) for individual tones, a little more complicated, I'll let others weigh in or look up my old posts here about that as I don't recall all of it myself. One problem I remember is that you must look up the midi implementation chart for the PX350 to get the correct bank change messages for each "tone". The PX350 will not select many of the best tones unless you send a bank change for that-the acoustic pianos and every other sound will revert to the GM default sound bank tones unless you do that, either live from your controller keyboard, or from a computer or hardware sequencer. This is important since some of the better sounding "tones" which are programmed with embedded effects settings use different bank change messages than the GM tone bank. Hope this helps.
  2. So you don't have the option to save a song as either a .CSR or a .MID file when you create an arrangement? With the PX-350 if I record a song saved as a .CSR (it uses the same proprietary Casio format and I haven't been able to find anything that will convert this outside the keyboard)-I then can also save it as a .MID file as well as a .CSR within the PX350. This is the only way I can transfer it to the computer for editing in a midi editor or DAW. The PX575 also allows for saving a recording this way-as both a .MID and .CSR-fiddly but it works.
  3. Excellent! Thanks Joe. It still amazes me how Coltrane got onto all this. I have even found these cycle of 3rds progressions in something as arcane as in an arrangement or two used by Vince Guaraldi-most noticeable for creating that distinctive sound in "Skating" where he he briefly uses an ascending chord progression in minor 3rds, very distincitve sound and sets it of from the usual II-V-I or cycle of fifths used so frequently by everybody from Bach to Billy Joel. Glad you sent the lesson-I still study out of the John Mehegan books, it's taken me years to get through even part of these! I am so glad Casio made these pianos at least well enough to be able to play with extended chords/arrangements and feel/sound like I'm playing a reasonable acoustic piano. Or better than some, although I occasionally miss the cigarette burns, stale beer stains, broken keys/out of tune and, we'll leave it at that.
  4. OK, downloaded it. Will try it out tomorrow. A hex layer makes sense-will give me some drawbar variations. Thanks!
  5. Ah-there it is-Vxn Continental-the same company that made all those great British amps, that weren't so great but very popular. I was thinking "Boom-Boom-Boom-Boom" another great organ hook. And "We Gotta Get Out of This Place". Actually almost every cut has a very nice organ riff, hook or solo. One of my favorite of the non-Beatles bands, and the Dave Clark Five. Great bands, great era for music! It still is......(depending upon where you point yourself I guess)........thanks for the clip, I just reviewing my old Animals records, and tapes, and mp3s!!!!!. I am old enough to admit-I watched tnem on Ed Sullivan and was old enough to-well we'll leave it at that! Great organ chops! And look at that great hollow body bass with Chas Chandler! I think it's a Hagstrom. This song still gives me goosebumps, the intensity is still wonderful, even all these years later. And look at Eric Burdon-he looked like he was 16 years old-he was born in 1941 so here he must have been closer to 20 or so-I don't know where this video is from, maybe "Ready-Steady-Go" from the BBC? Or could be Shindig in the USA? Doesn't look like the Ed Sullivan show, but it could be, it's been awhile since I saw it.
  6. Interesting simple explanation of 12-tone theory-bizarre but interesting. sort of like 12-tobne composition for dummies! How about a lesson on John Coltrane's theory behind "Giant Steps"? I'll give you a hint-he used the cycle of 3rds to improvise. Very cool.
  7. Before I impale my ears again-can anybody point me to an XW-P1 sound reasonably close to the old Alan Price Animals lead sound-I think it was an old Farfisa with drawbars but I'm not certain. The British groups used whatever they could get their hands on back then, there weren't many easy-to-carry keyboards back then! The Farfisas were considered "portable" and you could lose a finger assembling the stands, which I think were made with the same stuff as dining room chairs of the time. I looked like a dining room piece. Not that there's anything wrong with that! Seinfeld
  8. Just a remote guess, since I am familiar with the insides of these plastic key mechanisms I'll give it a try. The keys on these are assembled and fitted in sections, with thin plastic strips interconnecting specific groups of keys together (these are not fitted as individual keys as are many keyboards). Only 2-3 screws placed vertically and top down hold the keys in place by fastening through these plastic strips. The keys will mechanically sit where positioned without the screws or if the screws become loose-mine were on my XW-P1 when I took it apart the first time. There is a possibility-and I noticed this on mine, that if the screws are loose, the fulcrum pressure on the keys will not be sufficient to make enough contact with the rubber boots underneath-in other words, the back of the key which is it's hinge, may be lifting just enough to create this problem. Since only a specific range of keys are being affected, and consecutively, I suspect this section of the keystrip inside has come loose due to the screws fastening these down in the back part of the key. There is nothing else holding these keys in place except the physical design of the frame surrounding the keys-in other words, any loose-fitting internal strip will not be obvious and may even feel as secure as the other keys. If you take it apart-I would check all these top-placed screws as all of them will loosen over time. And since this range may be one you tend to play more frequently, this diagnosis would be my best guess. I would also think a little loctite or some similar thread-locking material in these screws might prevent this from happening again. Might as well if you disassemble it as these will only loosen again with repeated playing. Another observation-the back part of the keys on these XWs is a very thin plastic structure-this is the key's hinge. None of mine have broken-yet-but I look at this as a weak link in this playing mechanism. Just saying! And i think i have some old posts showing the insides of my XW-if I disremember (my own word) if not I'm sure by now there must be some pics somewhere on the web showing the insides of the XWs.
  9. Can't qualify if this is a common issue with these newer Casios, but I needed to put added felt cushioning strips in my XW-P1 for the same reason and it was new out of the box, and probably has a similar keybed structure to the MX which I believe is non-weighted as is the XW-P1. If yours is new, I would ask Casio if this can be remedied. It is not an easy DIY project unless you have plenty of experience with keyboard repairs/mods. And you will void any warranty you may have. From my prior experience, yes there are typically 2 felt strips above and below the striking points for the keys although again I have no MX to verify this design but it is fairly typical to all electronic keyboards with variations among manufacturers and clacky keys are certainly not unique to Casios. I recall only needing to put an additional felt strip underneath so the keys would not reverberate the bottom plastic part of the XW-P1 frame. The XW disassembly may be similar to the MX but again I have no experience with that particular model. I have a few posts around here showing extensive mods I made to my PX350 to solve this clacky problem, although my PX had been a floor model with obvious wear to the felt strips inside. I don't recall if I posted pics of my XW-P1 mods, it's been awhile! Hope you are having some fun with it, aside from these issues, I find the Casios immensely useful and quite comparable or even better than some of the defined "pro" keyboard instruments I play.
  10. Are those 2 notes in a specific octave, across all octaves of just a few octaves? This is a strange malfunction. and i would also like to hear it. Are the octaves in tune with each other? In other words, are these 2 pitches in tune with the other octave C and D pitches? There will always be some "beating" between octaves, even with the best acoustic pianos due to harmonics, variations in playing dynamics. I have almost never heard any digital with this kind of note-specific anomaly. Usually, digital keyboards use a "matrix" for scanning key presses and this is divided among groups of notes although I'm not sure how Casio does this. That is why I'm asking if this is only in one specific octave, or in all other octaves. This would suggest a possible electronic malfunction if it duplicates across more than one octave. Just 2 notes, very odd. Individual key sensors in these Casios and most others have no relation to pitch changes, only to dynamics, speed of keystrike and which sample is being triggered based upon depth and intensity of key strike (with the Casio tri-hammer action anyway). So the keyboard mechanism? I can't think this would be the source of the problem. Please post a musical recording.
  11. My PX350 textured keys are just as good as the day I bought it, and I play every day. I don't think you have anything to worry about. I always make sure I take off my landscaper gloves before I play!
  12. My pleasure, happy new year to all. This is what keeps me going too! May the new year be all we hope and dream it can be.
  13. OK-I'm assuming you know none of these locations-I will start with basics and transpose buttons. 1) Power on/off-12 inches from the left edge and 3 inches from the top of the PX350 is the power button. Press and hold for 1-2 seconds to power on and off. 2) 1 1/2 inches to the right of the power button is the circular volume knob, clockwise louder as normal with keyboards etc. 3) 1 1/2 inches to the right of the volume knob are 2 pushbuttons. 2 1/4 inches from the back edge of the PX is the metronome/beat pushbutton, directly below that is the thythm/user songs/one touch preset button. Pressing this button alternates between the rhythm setting and the user songs setting-there is a red led next to each of those labels. 4) Moving to your right roughly one inch, right next to the metronome label is the son recorder button-pressing this cycles through three separate functions-son play, song record and off. directly below that next to the rhythm button is the intro/repeat function button which is used for the auto-accompaniment functions. 5) starting about 1 1/2 inches to the right of the song recorder button is a row of 8 buttons which are right next to each other. These are from left to right- 1) pop/dance/rock 2) jazz/European 3) Latin 4) World 5) country/various 6) ballad 7) piano rhythms 8) user rhythms These are the categories of auto-accompaniment patterns built into the px. Immediately below that row are 8 more buttons but not so evenly spaced. starting directly from the right of the intro/repoeat button, these are- 1) normal/fillin/rewind 2) variation/fillin/fast forward 3) synchro/ending/pause 4 star/stop-play/stop Then with a small space in between to the right is the acompaniment on/off part button. By pressing the part and play/stop button together (right next to each other) you switch the PX into demo mode to hear the preset demo arrangements built into the PX. Immediately to the right of the part button just described are 3 more buttons which make up the end of this row of buttons. All are right next to each other. From left to right these are- 1) rhtythm editor arrow cursor down 2) misic preset arrow cursor up and 3) tap These 3 buttons are specifically for controlloing tempo but also for editing rhythms and putting the PX into music preset mode Now these are all the panel buttons to the left of the LCD screen. Moving across from the end of the last button to your right, 7 inches to the right is the other set of panel control buttons. these in general are for selecting sounds (tones as Casio calls them) and the remainder of the functions you need to know. Seven inches from the end of the last button I've just described is the beginning of 2 rows of 9 buttons. Each row is directly under the other. Again, the top row is about 3 inches below the back of the PX. I will start with the top row from left to right. these are tone categories... 1) piano 2) electric piano 3) organ 4) strings 5) various 6) GM tones continuing to the right there are 3 additional buttons 1) function 2) arrow cursor down/no 3) arrow cursor up/yes the row directly below this, about on inche below are the 9 remaining buttons These are- 1) bank/reverb 2) 1A/chorus 3) 2B/exit 4) 3c/ arrow cursor left 5) 4D/arrow cursor right 6) store/enter 7) split/split point 8) auto harmonize/ F+/USB device mode 9) audio recorder/load-save The letters 1A, 2B and so forth are all for selecting registration banks and individual registration settings. Note that the all these buttons have dual functions. some of these buttons have more than dual functions and must be used with other buttons to get to where you want to go! Unfortunate aspect to the PX that makes it difficult even if you can see the buttons! Now and finally-your question about transpose, now that you have a descritption of every button, i hope it helps. By pressing the function button-it switches from the function menu with one press, back to other settings already on when pressed again (switches out of function mode) Once you press the function button the LCD screen shows transpose initially. to transpose up or down, use the 2 keys directly to the right of the function button which are a set of cursor buttonsthe left one is down, the right is up. The other cursor buttons which I described as in the same row as the bank registration buttons-directly below the tone buttons-will scroll through the other function menu items.As you push the right arrow button in this row, you will scroll through 1) tune (master tune, preset to A;440 2) touch-controls key sensitivity 3) volume-pushing the enter button when here gives a submenu set of options for different voulme settings 3)temperament/effect-again hitting the enter button gives you more options for this 4) play/media 5) midi and finally 6) general -all of these buttons give you different options by pressing the enter button. Pressing the exit button returns you to the top of the menu you just sleected-if you hit enter when in the volume menu, hitting exit will bring you back to that menu item. The PX will save changes you make to these settings provided you have the "backup" option switched on-it is by default and is one of the settings within the "general" category of functions. the last item on the top panel which you probaly found already but just in case-is the thumb drive USB port. Keep in mind that many of us discovered that we can use a prett large thumb drive in these, I havve a 32GB in mine and it works fine. I hope this helps, this is a rather difficult instrument to work around since there are quite a few functions that use 2 separate buttons to access. Most of the time, I only us the function,, usb load/save, tones and song recorder or audio recorder buttons. One of the confusing aspects to this is keeping the audio recorder functions versus the song recorder functions distinctly different-the song recorder will record a midi data file in the Casio "proprietary" format, but this can also be saved to the thumb drive as a standard midi file, which I do frequently in order to bring it into a computer for editing let me know how you manage, and if i can help further, post here. if you need a description of the back panel connections, let me know-it's alot simpler than the top panel! I check in every day. and happy new year!
  14. I may have to do this a section at a time-meanwhile I don't know if you would need such a thing, but I found 2 versions of a braille-specific label maker which creates embossed stick=on labels in 1/4 or 1/2 width label tapes, very much like the dyno brand label makers. I would make labels for you with my Casio tape label maker-but these are not raised letters and would do no good and do not have the braille character set. the price for these braille tape-makers are 250 and 40 dollars US in case you are interested. I will post again asap.
  15. I had another thought about this-if there was a way i could duplicate the button labels in braille-if this could be done, would that be helpful? As stick-on type, might make it easier so as not to have memorize positionally? I am researching this now.