Chas

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Chas last won the day on December 15 2016

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  1. I'm not sure about the RZ-1, though the FZ-1 (plus 10M and 20M) are known for their "crunchiness". In fact, many find that it adds a unique character to the samples. Now, I've no idea if it's the filter (analogue) that causes this, or if it's the way the FZ processes its samples. It's supposedly 16 bit (and advertised as such), though some speculate that it samples at 12 bit. Or as you said earlier, perhaps it's the frequency range that does it, though I do also know that the FZ has selectable variable rates for sampling. When my FZ-20M finally arrives here from the UK (it's currently with the shipping company along with all my belongings) I will be eager to test it out!
  2. I've never had one, though I wouldn't mind one to add to my collection. They're quite collectible now and no longer go for bargain prices. From what I've read/ heard, the samples are the same as found on the HT series keyboards rhythm sections. Of course, the RZ allows the user to load in their own samples, which is one of the major selling points of the unit. However, I understand that the samples are very short and might be quite low resolution. For the prices that RZ's go for, you could probably pick up an FZ sampler for similar money, which also had 8 line outs. Then get the RZ samples, load them into the FZ and have all the FZ features as well!
  3. A recent Youtube video is pretty good at showing the basics:
  4. Hi All, I'm back in the UK getting my gear ready to be shipped over to the USA. Before I pack each item, I check to make sure all was working. Of course, having not played with any of my synths for over a year I wanted to a little bit of time to enjoy them before I packed them up, and that included both my XW's. My P1 worked fine, so after a while I packed it away. My G1 though, seems to have a fault with the keyboard. In a nutshell, C3 - G3, including the black keys, are unresponsive. I must confess that it has done this before, and it seemed to be an intermittent fault as either they'd suddenly start working again or would do so as I flipped through the settings and messed around with key ranges and all that. I remember once doing a factory reset that seemed to solve the issue, though I've no idea if that or the menu diving had any effect or not or whether it was a coincidence. Anyhow, when I got back after being away a year sure enough the G1 was doing the dead keys trick again, then seemed to start working again. It stayed that way until I got my Roland JX-3P back from having its KIWI3P upgrade installed and as can be expected, my attention turned to playing the hell out of that as it completely revamps the Roland and turns it into quite the beast. The G1 was not used for a good few weeks until tonight when I decided to try it out one last time before packing it away for the shippers. However, once again when I switched it on the C3 - G3 are unresponsive. I tried menu diving, resetting key ranges and finally tried two factory resets all to no avail - these particular keys remain dead. I also hooked it up via MIDI to the JX-3P, and using the G1 to play the JX shows the same issue with the same range of dead keys. When I do it the other way round and use the JX to play the G1 via MIDI, all key ranges are responsive indicating that the G1's sound engine is functioning perfectly and that there is something stopping the G1's C3 - G3 range of keys from working. Has anyone encountered this issue with the G1 (or P1) before (I tried looking through the forum and can't see where any similar incidences)? Any idea where I should start looking to resolve the problem? I know I can use the G1 fine over MIDI, but I'd still like its keyboard to work properly again Chas
  5. You are, indeed, correct. The CZ3000 (and 5000) use 3 x AA batteries to back up the internal memory. They are accessed underneath the CZ via a small plastic cover that if I recall correctly, slides off to reveal them. The CZ101/ 1000 do not have changeable batteries to back up their memory, and the CZ-1 is different to the 3000/ 5000 as its memory back up battery is on the main board itself and only accessible if you take the CZ-1 apart.
  6. You've come to the right place! Most of us have more than one Casio. Some of us (ahem!) have quite a few of them!
  7. I believe this is a common feature of many older Casios that run on batteries as well as with an AC adapter. If I recall correctly, it's called "APO" (Automatic Power Off), and if the keyboard is switched on and left idle (no keys or buttons pressed for more than a few minutes), it will automatically switch itself off. Even if it's powered by the adapter. Some battery and mains adapter powered Casios, such as the CZ101, have a switch that can turn off this feature, but the lesser model Casios don't. The CT1000P is mains powered only, hence does not have the auto power off feature. Love the MT68/ 65 models by the way! Great beats and rhythms on those
  8. Oh, and this is one of the best demos I've heard demonstrating a modified HT3000 filter:
  9. This site has links to PDF's that show you how to carry out the filter mod on an HT3000. The 3000 is pretty much the full sized keys version of the HT700, which is the programmable version of the MT600. http://legoluft.dyndns.org/tech/bending/e-casio-ht-3000.html
  10. The MT600 is basically a pre-set version of the HT700. Despite having no functions to modify any of the sounds, it still has the onboard analogue filter as used in the HT/ HZ series. You can tap into this filter and use external controls to manipulate it. There are mods online for the HT's, and if you find the same filter components on the MT600's circuit board, you can take control of its filter also.
  11. And some discussion about the synthesis method used by the CTK1000 (and possibly the PRO-300):
  12. That's not a Casio model that I've ever heard of before. A search on the internet comes up with very little, just replacement power supplies. This site suggests that it was made in 1992: http://www.pacparts.com/model.cfm?mfg=casio&model_id=PRO300&action=list_part&mode=auto&back=0 It looks as if it might be related to the early 90's CTK range being similar in looks and using "Touch Response" to describe the velocity sensitive keyboard (see below for the CTK1000). As to value, I doubt if it's worth much. It's not a sought after model, and likely being more digital, it's not easy to circuit bend hence not appealing to circuit benders. If it has good sounds and works for you, keep it! Here's a picture of a CTK1000: [/
  13. Modified Casio HT3000 - extra filter cut off and resonance controls on the front panel, resonance level increased so it self oscillates. Sounds really good!