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Hi all, I registered here in the hope I might find some help in repairing a lovely little Casio PT-20 I picked up for a couple of Euros in a second-hand shop. It's nice and tidy with no cracks or scratches, and all buttons & keys are present. Sadly there appears to be something wrong with the envelope signal on the melody, and the chord/bass doesn't make any sound at all. Here's a short MP3 which demonstrates what it sounds like, using the rock & bossa nova beats, and piano and organ melody sounds. Clearly a very sick puppy 😟 Some crappy phone photos: The plastic is not nearly as yellow as the photos suggest! I would love to try and fix this lovely little keyboard, but haven't been able to locate a schematic other than for it's much bigger brother the PT-80. This does use the same CPU though, so there's probably a fair bit they have in common. I guess finding the envelope transistor for the melody might be a good place to start; on the PT-80 this hangs off pin #79 on the CPU...

Hi, My Privia PX-850 developed a loud key (i.e. full volume regardless of the key actuation force). I suspected an issue in the sensor of the key, and opened up the piano to try and repair the issue. I could not find nice information online on disassembly of this piano, so I'd like to share some pictures with you here, perhaps it will be of use to someone. I started by removing the backpanel. That was easy, but be aware of the cable connecting the lid sensor. There is a connector that allows disconnection. Next I removed the keyboard cover. A screw holds the metal bar in place on the spring mechanism. Loosen the screw and slide out the bar. Next, the whole cover can be slid out of the rails. Next, I removed the whole keyboard assembly out of the cabinet. In retrospect than may not be necessary to remove the pianokeys and access the sensors, but this is how I did it. I loosened the center electronics cabinet and loosened all connectors. The high density flat cable can be unlocked by lifting up the plastic top ridge in the pcb connector. The right speaker casing also needed to be removed as it covers some screws. I removed the front panel with the controls. It is attached to the keyboard assembly through several posts, unscrew these from the front panel. Also, At 1/3 of the length next to the grille two screws keep together two segments. After detaching, both halves easily come out. I removed the tape and ziptie connecing the cables to the white keyboard assembly. The keyboard came loose with 3 screws on top and a whole bunch on the bottom. After this, the whole assemble could be maneuvered out of the back with relative easy. Take care to support it well over the length. Next, I loosened the retaining bracket behind the affected keys. Also, the black posts for the front panel had to be removed in that segment. After removal, I could take out first the white keys, then the black. The keys hinge between white plastic tabs, after prying and spreading them a bit the key can pop up, and move back and out. I removed keys until a whole sensor segment was exposed.. I loosened the rubber strip from the membrane switch array gently. It is stuck in with soft rubber pins in holes on the pcb. Each key had 3 contracts (tri sensor!) at different heights, I suspect the connect sequentially and stroke force is deduced from the timing between them. Finally, what I came to do. I gently cleaned both the carbonized rubber contacts and the zigzag pcb segments with isopropyl alcohol and a sort of cotton tip applicator. Then reassembly. The rubber segment was hard to get seated in the holes, until I found that a paper clip wire can poke in the holes on the top and nicely push in the 'legs' below in their holes. Next the keys went back in, secured by the brackets, everything back in the cabinet, and try to remember where all screws came from. In the end, I powered up the instrument, and yay! the piano key is now touch sensitive again. Mission accomplished. Over here I made a movie of the action being actuated.

Hey all, I'm new to this forum, but I'm looking for help repairing my Casiotone 403. I accidentally knocked it over and it now no longer powers on. If anyone happens to have any experience with these and could point me in the direction of the possible components which might've failed, I would be eternally grateful.

I got my Dg-20 2 years ago and have tried for awhile to find a replacement neck. The electronics are fine it’s just the plastic that has broken. Any tips or any maybe 3D model that I could use to make one.

Hello everyone, a while back (longer ago than I’d like to admit) I let some hissing from the tweeter drive me crazy enough to take the whole piano apart. I’m finally attempting to put it back together and there is one metal bracket that I cannot for the life of me figure out where it goes. It looks like it should go on the bottom but can’t find a place for it plus it’s longer than the main unit it would have to somehow fit out to both sides. I’ll add pics as soon as I figure out how on these forums but any help would be greatly appreciated. https://imgur.com/a/hj52QKg

Hello folks. I am new here, so please forgive me if i mess up. My grandfather had bought my father a PT-20 when he was a teen. It is a very sentimental object to him. As he had been trying to get it back working a few years ao, he used a higher voltage adaptor, burning out (hopefully) a internal fuse circuit.. I hope on restoring the synthesizer, and gifting it to him on his birthday. Any advice? Will be happy to provide any resource that might help restore it.

I bought a broken CT-6000 from Craigslist. It was in ROUGH shape. It powers on but there is only a static sound coming from all speakers and outputs. I have opened it up, cleaned the inside and replace one blown resistor. Everything else looks good and I have used a multi meter to check that the main boards have power. It almost sounds like something between the synth and the main output board is not hooked up correctly and it is only sounding some electronic interference. Any advise is welcomed! Is there a possibility that I could repair this or is she ready for the graveyard? 💀 I have some photos of the boards and a short video of the sound in this google drive folder: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1mK-NVLZ-nR4NFnlxD7rVhsK6HQP1wVlg

Hi Thank you for your forum that I have joined to ask about this synth🎹 i bought cheap some years ago in Tasmania (Australia )for next to nothing (it had a few keys bent upwards). I have many other synths but this is the only Casio and it worked fine but has been stored for 5 years or so up to recently when I dusted it off. I tried to power up with a 9v PSU and nothing and only when I opened the synth and realised the DC plug/socket deal is reversed in the music tech universe...☹️ So hoping there was a diode or some other polarity protection that meant I hadn't wrecked my Casio...When I powered it with a 9V 1A PSU (which are the specs roughly) and bench PS same thing happened: . I get to play a note or just wait for a couple of seconds before the thing powers off. There is then a period of latency when it does not respond to restarting, but after a few seconds of being off I can go through the whole process again.💤 On reading other posts, I am hoping I haven't damaged the power board, 🔥given it does power on , the little LCD starts up and i can play a riff or two, 🎹🎶or i could (the problem seems to have deteriorated with my testing) , but only for a few seconds. The power is of good character, but it has no stamina.🤭 I am wondering if a board needs repairing or replacing, or whether it is a blown capacitor (it sort of feels like that, the time and characteristic of the failure fade out is very capacitoresque) I have a well stocked workshop with DMMs, scopes, all the parts one could ever dream of and I can solder myself out of a tight situation BUT as you may have gathered I am no synth technician and can't justify paying one to fix this. I am hoping I can get some advice from this forum, which has already been an invaluable resource: Is there anything I can try next or any other diagnostic steps? Or does the cost and expertise required to fix this mean I should cut my losses and move on (to a Roland Juno 106 that needs a new voice chip )? sorry long post... Any help is appreciated. Thank you and:

My ctx9000in Is facing a problem in starting. It starts and turns off within 20 seconds

I accidently lifted a key too hard and it popped up and will not go back down. How do I fix this?

On eBay I had bought parts of a Casio Symphonytron. I don't own the entire stage organ system but only one CT-8000, the RC-1 accompaniment/drum machine and a defective MB-1 sequencer in very beaten up condition (full of scratches, dirt and glue residues), but no pedal board. It came without the CIDI (Casio's Infernal/Inferior/Internal/Instrument Digital Interface) cables, so I ordered 3 DIN14 cables for Atari ST floppy, those work perfectly with the RC-1 (with one keyboard it does key split accompaniment with arpeggio, and also the trio mode works). Like with Kawai MS20, when you set a preset sound on the keyboard it plays a short fanfare with it (always the same notes). How ever my MB-1 doesn't work at all (buttons don't respond and it makes sometimes a louder growing digital buzz); possibly the eprom is dead. Also CT-8000 and RC-1 contain (as the only Casio instruments I know) each a soldered eprom; I backed up all 3 to avoid data loss. Unfortunately my Symphonytron sequencer unit MB-1 is dead (does nothing, but plays note mess when touching the crystal etc.), so I am not sure if its eprom may have failed (dump does not change by reducing Vcc) or it might be still a bug by the lack of original CIDI port cables. - hardware details I have photographed all my Symphonytron PCBs from both sides. The multi-chip hardware is quite complex and particularly the RC-1 and MB-1 have several stacked PCBs in their crowded case. Fortunately there are are some pinout marks on them, those may help to decipher them. The MB-1 and CT-8000 both have the same CPU "NEC D8049C 364" (Intel MCS-48, I dumped its firmware) with sound IC "D931C 011". The RC-1 CPU is a "NEC D930G 011". So they are far relatives of the Casio CT-410V (MT-65) hardware class (minus the VCA, but with external ROM) which may help to research hidden functions of its chip set. I don't own the FK-1 pedal board, so I have no clue what is inside. Did you know that early Casio keyboards had a CPU compatible with Intel 8049? Unfortunately the "Willem Pro4 isp" eprommer had a way too weak power supply with tiny SMD transistors switching the voltages. One was burnt anyway, so I had to install bigger non-SMD ones to get the MCS-48 adapter to work. Casio "D8049C xxx" ICs need Vcc of at least 4.5V to read properly, which was impossible with the original transistors ans PSU (it gave only 4V even in 5.6V mode). I installed a 10kOhm resistor into the EA line to avoid damage by the +12V if the IC would not have supported it properly, and connected it to a 5kOhm potentiometer to vary the voltage, which I didn't need. (Too high EA voltage (15V) outputs only "00" while too low voltage (9V?) makes the CPU run its program and output garbage. At too low Vcc it repeats the first part of the rom again and again.) So I e.g. could read the firmware of the Symphonytron Casio CT-8000 cpu and Casio HT-6000 synth (its D80C48 seems to be a real CMOS IC that draws less current). Also MT-36,MT-40,MT-90/MT-200 and Casiotone 401 have such a CPU. - need service manual Eons ago I downloaded the complete Symphonytron user manual from an eBay link, but I have no schematics. Has anybody a service manual? Particularly I am interested in the MB-1 hardware, the official CIDI cable wiring (may the MB-1 only need a crossed wire somewhere?) and the pedal board (has anybody dumped the eprom?).

Hello, guys! My CTX3000 became a headache to me and it's new. Not even a year old yet. And I don't use it everyday. Before, every time I open it, beats automatically plays. When I went to the Casio Service Center, it was repaired. But then, few months later, it's happening again. I am very careful with my stuff that's why I know myself I didn't do anything to break it. Even the repairman said he doesn't know the cause because he observed that the keyboard is safely used. Can anyone tell me what's happening? Why does this keep on playing beats by itself when opened? And also, when that happens, I can't even control the buttons anymore. Even the power button. When I need to close it, I have to pull the plug out.

So I had been dreaming of buying one of these for a while, finally found one I could afford, some aesthetic wear but seller assured me everything worked. Got it the other day and everything does work apart from the switch that changes between the preset sound banks. So I am very sad as this means half the sounds are inaccessible, and immensely frustrated as I imagine this is quite a simple fix but I am wary of taking the thing apart to have a look. If anyone has any advice or resources (I have had a look through the technical spec you can find but omg it is intimidating!) I would be super grateful =)

Hello everyone, I own a PX-730 digital piano whose sustain pedal suffered irreparable damage. I have taken the assembly off the support and found that the plastic frame which supports the pedal hinge broke off. Therefore it will be necessary to replace the whole assembly. However the part (Casio part no. 91087002040) is listed as "discontinued", therefore I am having trouble finding a replacement. I saw several pedal sets for sale on eBay (Casio SP33) which look similar to the one I have on my piano, and I'm wondering whether it could be possible to remove the pedal assembly from the SP33 and fit it in my piano, and if it will work. Has anyone had the same problem? Thanks to everyone in advance for your help. Arturo.

I found my moms old Casio rap-1 rapman. It's in okay condition, but a couple of the keys don't work and the adapters shot. Anybody have any advice on how to fix it.

I purchased an 88-keys Privia Casio PX-160 and received it today with included bundle set of stand, chair, etc. from Amazon and upon testing if all the keys are functional - 2 groups of 4 keys are unresponsive, meaning a total of 8 keys do not play sound, yet all the other 80 keys do. The first group of 4 unresponsive keys are the 4 keys from the very left of the keyboard and the other group of 4 unresponsive keys are the ones from harpsichord - string 2 . Please advise, I have tried turning the keyboard on and off and switching to different settings. I'm pretty bummed out since I was so excited to learn how to play the piano today and all the other keys are working fine, only these 8 keys are not responding.

Please do help ..i bought used px100 My px 100 having issues ..facing with one dead keys and i tried to open and see inside Situation is like this shown in pic .. Can i get it back to function ...if anyone know please kindly suggest please thanks alots

I recently acquired a CZ101 one but this one seems to make a clicking noise when it receives MIDI data on other channels. For example, CZ set to channel 1, notes being played on channel 16 make a clicking noise corresponding to their durations, so its not random noise. If I turn them off in the MIDI program, those other channel clicks disappear, but the receiving channel still plays the clicks from its midi on messages. Playing the same patches via the keyboard there is no such raspy clicking noises. I was hoping somebody may have encountered this problem before and new how to fix it. thanks

I repaired a mangled socket (sustain pedal) on my XW-P1. I thought I'd make a video while I was doing it in case anyone else has the same problem:

We moved to a new house that apparently has power surges (hooray!) After one such surge our Celviano AP220 stopped turning on. I bought a new power supply and now it turns on, but it won't play. When it turns on it makes a very loud sound similar to when someone plugs a microphone into a system that is already on. Then it will not play from the keys, from demo, or the metronome. It also does not work through headphones/outside speakers. Any idea which part might be malfunctioning and whether a handy person would be able to replace on her own? Thanks!

Hi all, I'm new to the forums here, and hoping you folks can help. I have a Casio WK-110 that I was finally able to get out of storage after it had been sitting for 3 years. It worked perfectly when I put it into storage. I couldn't find the original power supply, but bought a 9-volt 850amp DC output one off of Amazon that claimed to be compatible. I plugged it in, and the keyboard gets power and the screen turns on, but that's it - none of the buttons work, no sound from the keyboard. Also, pressing the power button again won't let it power off - it stays on until I unplug the power supply from the keyboard. I did some searching online and tried some tricks like holding down the transpose key and the down key, and occasionally get some feedback from the speakers, but that's it. I called Casio support, but I just got put on endless hold. I'm writing here to see if anyone has any ideas on how to restore this old guy, as it's my only instrument left after a bout of homelessness and I won't be able to afford to buy a new one for a while. Many thanks in advance!

I recently moved to China from the US for a job assignment and took my Casio PX-5S (purchased less than a year ago). Unfortunately, something must have gotten damaged in transit as the middle "E" key does not sustain. It is still responsive to touch and velocity, but the note always ends instantaneously and does not sustain if I hold down the key. It will only sustain if used in conjunction with a sustain pedal. I've filed a claim with the mover's insurance company who agreed to pay $500 for the repair, but I have no idea who could perform the repair in China or if it's something I can do myself. I'm handy with a soldering iron but I'm not sure if this is a dirty contact issue or something more serious. Anybody have any thoughts on repair and what might be involved? I'd rather do it myself since I'm in a foreign country and the warranty only allows service in the country where it was purchased.