Siberialina

Dear fellow casiophiles. You helped me before, please help me again. I bought a vintage Casiotone MT-70 and while cleaning it, I found that one key lifts up(see the photo). It is B bang in the middle of the keyboard, so I wonder whether it's not a bug but a feature, a place where two bits of keyboard were mounted together. The key plays and otherwise behaves normally, but I wonder whether I could fix it. I tried to press it really hard to see whether something would click back in place, but nothing did. Is it fixable at all? Thank you for your wisdom!

On 2/19/2021 at 10:25 AM, Brad Saucier said:

 

Yes, the CTX appendix shows names like that.  You can download a searchable PDF version of the appendix, see my pinned post in the general CTX section.

 

 

Sure.  Go for it.  That's what this site is all about, helping one another make music with Casio.  I suggest creating a single thread dedicated to that topic.

HI Brad. I must be blind, but I do not see the full tones list in the appendix. I see drum assignment, song list, MIDI, etc but no list of all 600 tones. Could you kindly point me in the right direction please? I seemed to have looked through the manual and online... Am I missing something? I just want a list of all rhythms and tones for Ct-X800. Thank you

13 hours ago, Jokeyman123 said:

You might want to experiment with a few less expensive mics-some of the computer desktop mikes are pretty high-imedance-meaning they are "hotter" than a pro vocal mike, you might get enough gain-something like a computer headset mike for gaming might work if you can get one with the right input plug. Jamie's right as far as using something like a pro Shure Vocalmaster/SM58, Behringer or similar would probably need a mike preamp, although from my experience miking bands and recording-many of these pro mikes come in 2 versions-a low or high impedance version. if you have something like this-and you have the right size input to the Casio-can't do any damage to try. I have an audio input in my PX560-probably the same impedance as the PX-3000. I also use a low impedance to high impedance transformer plug-which gets a hotter signal to a mixing board or recorder from a pro low impedance mike, like this, if you already have a pro 1/4" mike, it might give you a hot enough signal into the PX3000.

Another possibility-I have one-find an inexpensive small 2-4 channel mixer-some are powered by batteries now for busking/portable use-that has a mike input-and feed the mixer outputs to your Casio. I will try a few mikes like this, post back. I've found a few very portable mixers that run $30-40 US-and the advantage that you have an additional control over some eq settings back into the Casio depending on what you get. Yes its another piece of equipment but might cost less than a good mike preamp alone. This is one of mine-but there are even smaller, less expensive, just to give you an idea. This one ran me 60.00, is around 6" x 10"-very clean signals, amazing how this technology has progressed. This one needs AC power, but I have another smaller one that runs on one rechargeable 3.7V lipo but doesn't have 48V phantom power which you wouldn't need unless you were running good quality condenser mikes-not what you need I'm guessing.

 

 

do you reckon this one would work with a keyboard because it'd have more than 15w? THe quality won't be great, but just the idea of plugging the headset into a keyboard always interested me...

https://www.amazon.com/Microphone-Waterproof-Transmitter-Instructor-Smartphone/dp/B07Y9H3XX3/ref=pd_sbs_2/141-5627323-3525515?pd_rd_w=aoJsg&pf_rd_p=3676f086-9496-4fd7-8490-77cf7f43f846&pf_rd_r=YZYNJKKHB96NWPE6TB8K&pd_rd_r=a0020c67-9805-4095-afe1-7e486a5b8f76&pd_rd_wg=r79OW&pd_rd_i=B07Y9H3XX3&psc=1

On 7/5/2021 at 8:33 AM, richjones said:

Hi there

 

I'm thinking of going busking with my S3000 and I was wondering whether anyone has found a microphone that connects directly to the speakers. Perhaps via the mini-jack in or bluetooth? I am wondering whether I could find something that would mean I wouldn't need any additional amplification for my voice and could just use the keyboard's in-built speakers.

 

Thanks! Rich

Taking a $1000 keys in hope to make $50 busking-that's the spirit, we've all been there;) blue tooth would give you a delay, I'd guess. Some keys like Roland have a special mike input. I wouldn't just plug random things into random inputs on expensive keys, but I am just cautious I guess. Have you tried getting an app on a device that would do that? I know there is a mike app for the phone(you sing into the phone and it amplifies your voice)-but it LAGS. there are also USB powered mikes, but I am not sure whether this would work. Will follow this topic as I also thought about this (but too scared to plug random things into random holes). What, even if it works, it will blow the speakers up? I have a TC Helicon voicelive touch2 which you can plug an XLR mike and then TC Helicon narrows it to a big male unit to plug into an amp, I guess it works as preamp. It's got heaps of voice effects though, if you come across this unit-I recommend. You can also harmonise with yourself using it, as your keys plug into it and it reads the harmony off your accompanement.

25 minutes ago, Marco Alvarado said:

I have a Privia PX-3BK with a big quantity of these problems.  As for me was impossible to find these parts on time, I just used a 3D  pencil and made my owns (after 10 million tests, and reopening the piano so many times, that right now I have it without screws) ... they work "more or less" because I made them by hand, and the key levels are not perfect.

So, I have been looking around for another piano, as my daughters are having piano classes and they need a good quality keybed .. and I was tempted on another Casio, but after checking that more and more Casio models have the same parts and all them have the same problems, no way, Casio is banned from my options.

This could be a design problem or maybe very humid weather damage these rubber parts quickly. 

For the Casio I was tempted on this (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2814736) and to replace ALL the remaining parts for having them the same size, but I am not really sure if this could be a good idea.

Very clever solution to 3D print parts! I find Casio still being the best value for money. My other keyboard is a new modern expensive Kawai and I've had issues with it. So, if you buy a brand new older model Casio, it will still be a good value, I think. Nothing lasts forever, but many 15 years old Casios are still going strong!

I just did an image search for this part, which I also need and it came up with this:

https://www.pacparts.com/model.cfm?mfg=casio&model_id=PX700&action=list_part

Hope this helps!

So, a month after I did not buy that keyboard, it popped up for sale again with a much more honest photos(attached). He is asking even more than what it was going for, presumably to retrieve his costs. In the meantime, I googled the problems and the rubber dampers can be bought and replaced, but for what he is currently asking, it's not worth it. Plus, it is missing a triple pedal unit and this is a model which you can't just hook any pedal to... Will only buy if he sells really cheap, but some newbie could buy it without knowing much about the problem...

As promised, here is an update on my repairs. I repaired the clicking key by putting a metal clip over it (see the photo). This worked, kind of. Unfortunately, the key in question was next to the screw and the clip would make a click every time the key was lifted-if it wasn't for a screw on the right, this wouldn't have happened. This bothered me enough to disassemble the keyboard again and try a different solution this time using the plastic tie they often use for cords when you buy something. I have a whole collection of them. This worked much better and there is no noise anymore. Hope someone would find it helpful.

On 8/23/2020 at 12:23 AM, Jokeyman123 said:

I understand-I've had to disassemble different keyboards 1-2-3 times occasionally at first. Go easy with the screws into the plastic anchors very easy to strip-if you strip one, I use some crazy glue (cyanoacrylate) with a bit of a toothpick to snug up stripped plastic screwposts. And the more you do this, the better you will get at it, at least I think so! The good thing about the Casios-unlike many others-almost all the screws that hold the cases together are the same size-saves you from having to sort out several different sizes and thread designs for screws.

 

I have professional tech training-but that doesn't make it easier in some respects!

 

If you can get more internal pictures if you get this apart again, I will study it over again.  I have an older PX575 I play often-and this PX320 looks closer to that one than the newer 350/360/560/PX-S series. I think those internal designs look a bit more securely put together, although yours is fairly close to the others and is still a very workable design. My old 575 keys feel as playable and are as quiet as the newer-but I had to do some mods to get there-alot of work.  Again-look at the frame above the fulcrums-i still think the metal arms are hitting that part with the ridge-that could happen because the felts have compressed a bit over time, although the felts-judging by your pictures-look to be in pretty good condition.  and patience-extremely important-if I'm not in a "good place"-feel rushed or pressured-that's when I make mistakes. Takes some real patience and skill to do this work, that's why there are so few good keyboard techs in our disposable economy, that and most just junk stuff when it doesn't work.

Some internal photos of my Privia PX350 for Jokeyman123-long overdue, sorry! I wasn't sure what to photograph, sorry if that's not what you were looking for. Also, will do a separate post on how I improved on my own repairs.

Hi everyone, I am contemplating buying Privia PX 730, the keys look uneven on the photo, but surely it should be something easy to fix? I can't find anything here on "uneven keys", please kindly share your wisdom if you have any experience with these. Maybe it's not worth it? Photo attached. Thank you.

2 hours ago, Jokeyman123 said:

Petroleum jelly can deteriorate rubber over time-I think it can soften plastic but I don't think it will do much damage soon-maybe after awhile it might soften and swell the rubber parts. for screws-I use a tiny bit of "poster putty" on my screwdrivers-the kind that is like "silly putty" designed for sticking paper posters up-and a magnetic wand to fetch screws that might get lost in the mechanism. You have my best wishes, this is not easy work, certainly not for everyone!

Arrrgh!!!! Thank you for this info, will disassemble on Monday and will remove all the jelly. Thank you for best wishes, Jokeyman123, although I am not technical, this was an easy fix and using the power drill to unscrew all the screws saved a lot of time. I did use other people's advice not to use the power drill for screwing the screws back... Since I will be opening it up, I will also try to push my clip a bit to see whether this will make a difference. Luckily, clips are cheaper than hammers. Someone should make a channel about fixing pianos with twigs and straw LOL

45 minutes ago, Casiofun said:

Replacing the hammer would have also fixed it assuming the part is available. They don't cost much to replace.

Not easily available, would have to order from the dealer and it's probably too complicated, I am a pianist, this is way above my expertise...

3 hours ago, Jokeyman123 said:

i have disassembled several Privias for various reasons-you can see my posts here at Casio regarding the PX350 in particular. This one looks a bit different inside-but from what i can see in your video-the clicking is being caused by the metal fulcrum arm hitting the plastic where there appears to be a raised line of plastic about halfway from the fulcrum ends-almost in the middle as part of the gray frame. I am not clear what you did to actually stop the clicking-as Andrew posted-if the rubber ends of the fulcrums are twisted out of place-it may be allowing the fulcrum to hit the plastic case-that's what it sounds like to me. I'll have to study this video again. You also found out-Casio uses alot of keyboard grease which over time can melt and seep into the rubber boots-whenever i disassemble a keyboard-I try to clean all that excess grease before I put everything back together, i think they overdo it a bit sometimes. it's necessary but only so much! Thanks for posting, hard for many to get keyboard repair technicians for these problems in some areas-why I try to post like you did whenever I can find something useful that might help a DIY person-always with the warning-get a proper tech to fix it first unless you are absolutely sure you have no other alternative but to do it yourself.

I understand what you mean about black plastic bits twisting out of place-this happened with some other keys when I was assembling the keyboard-some keys popped back easily, some didn't and when we lifted them again, the black rubber thingie was out of place. I have become a keyboard disassembling ninja in the process, as I had to do it three times(not in the vid, because it's stupid). First time I missed a whole set of screws(kept them in a separate bowl and missed them completely), second, when I assembled, something was rattling inside, I opened one side and a flat piece of grey rectangular plastic fell out(about the size of that metal bit that I put in place, but thinner). I don't know whether it was lose before, or something gave in during my fiddling with it. Good advice re grease-I didn't really clean anything, as I did not have any replacement grease. When closing, I scooped some from nearby keys and put on the one I dealt with. I also added petroleum jelly and am now having second thoughts about it, as it might affect those black rubber caps on the keys...

5 hours ago, AndrewL said:

Wow, I wonder at 1:20 what was actually missing or broken or misplaced. How are the other metal pieces joined to the plastic? Maybe glue?

Isn't the noise from that A# caused by the clip you added moving when the key goes up?

other pieces seemed to have been glued as I didn't see any joints or screws. The noise of A#-yeah, maybe we should have placed the clip a bit closer outward(toward the player)... When we tested before assembling, there was still some noise, it didnt become worse when we assembled. if you look on the leftmost key (the one we didn't remove), you can see how it arches really high, so the noise is not from the clip contact with the key itself. Maybe I should disassemble again, but this will be a project for the next lockdown

here is my 3 min video of the process with some interesting finds...Hope someone might find it helpful. Thank you for your helpful suggestions which I used https://vimeo.com/446327916

8 hours ago, Jokeyman123 said:

Look over my posts and pictures here under PX350 posts. The 350 is fairly similar to the 320 as far as key mechanism-you might gain som einsight as to what is happening to yours. I have modified several Privias to quiet the keys, ehich over time-for the older Casios can get a bit noisier due to compacted cushioning felt-not unique to Casio, I've done this with other keys too, Kurzweil, Yamaha and Ensoniq all with weighted keys.

thank you! this gives me hope, even though I am by no means a tech person

Hi there,
first time poster here. Bought secondhand Casio Privia PX 320 which has 3 keys with prominent noise. The sound isn't affected. When pressed, it feels like the key lands on something harder than other keys-as if there was some felt cushion which is no longer there. Looked online, couldn't find anything similar. I am planning to disassemble it myself and have a look, but if you encountered anything similar-please share your wisdom, thank you! I am worried that I will disassembler it and won't find anything to fix. I looked through craxyivn's brilliant post, but I couldn't see any felt in the mechanism, nothing that I could replace...