Joe Muscara

I don't own an SP-33 but I've seen them being knocked around attached to models like the CGP-700 at various stores, not attached to the stand for some reason, and they seem to be doing fine.

I want to see what the MIDI data looks like from that key as well. Connect it to a computer and let us know what you find.

There's probably dirt under the key contacts. Some people have used compressed air to fix this, others have disassembled the keyboards themselves and cleaned under the rubber things. There are other posts around the forums with info if you want to try this yourself. Other models have the same fix.

But he gave it a Key Buy award!

What app are you using to record? There may be a place in the application to tell it what source to use. Another option is to go to the Sound pane in System Preferences and select Line In. See the image (this is from El Capitan, but previous macOS versions are similar).

Terry, depending upon the model of your Privia, you may be able to connect it directly to your computer with a USB cable. The most recent Privias are class-compliant, meaning that the USB port on the back (not the one for USB drives on the front, if it has one) can connect to a computer (PC/Mac/iOS) with no driver installation needed. You will simply need a USB cable that's commonly used with printers. It will have the flat USB connector on one end and the squarish one on the other. The flat end goes in your laptop, and the squarish end goes in the Privia. Once connected and powered up, the software on your laptop should "see" the MIDI coming in from the Privia. If your Privia doesn't have the USB port, then we will need to discuss using the 5-pin DIN MIDI port to connect to an interface that can then be connected to your computer.

Then you should get the unit repaired or replaced under warranty.

Try plugging in the headphones and unplugging them next time it happens. Repeat this a couple of times if necessary. Please let us know if this works for you.

Shouldn't you update your original post then?

Since Funky Pop is Respect on the CGP-700, I would guess that's what it is on the MZ-X. But I've never heard the MZ-X version so I could be way off.

It depends on which +/- buttons you're scrolling with. The ones to the left of the display are just scrolling through the four zones. Those may or may not be piano sounds.

Check out page EN-24 of the manual. Make sure the "Back up" parameter is off. Then reset the transposition, and you should be able to turn on Back up if you wish.

It really depends. The color touch screen interface on the newer models is really nice. But, the CGP-700 is much more limited in what it can do as far as having the knobs and sliders (it doesn't), multiple zones (it doesn't), 5-pin MIDI out (it doesn't), downloadable sounds (it doesn't). The PX-5S is a really powerful controller keyboard. The CGP-700 is more basic as far as those things, while being great at what it does. OTOH, the PX-560 gets you the color touch screen interface and a bit more on features, but it's still not the controller the PX-5S is. All that being said, what do you do with the PX-5S? If you let us know, we can tell you if one of the newer Casios will suit you. Also, you do know that there are a ton of sound presets (Stage Settings) available on this site for downloading. You may find that these Stage Settings are great replacements for ones that came with your PX-5S. I highly recommend the PX-5S ALL set. Just note that if you created any custom Stage Settings, you should save those first because the ALL set will replace everything.

I'm glad you got it working again! To be honest, I think Casio is trying to determine why this happens, hence the survey. It was believed that already having installed 1.13 would prevent this issue, but there seem to have been a few cases like yours. I hope you have filled out the survey. Meanwhile, keep that USB stick around just in case, and if it happens again document the details if you can.

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It sounds like a dirty contact. Since you're still under warranty, you should look into getting it repaired or replaced. Where did you buy it?

The modulation wheel should be all the way down, not in the middle (unless you're using it). 1. One of those means you've modified the Stage Setting. If you go to another Stage Setting and come back, those changes will be lost. 2. I've never initialized except after doing a firmware update.

Obviously there's something wrong. Is the modulation wheel all the way down?

The Burn has an indicator light to tell you if it's overloaded via the Clip LED.

I would say mine does it and that they all do, but when I'm playing it, I don't really notice it. I did a long, hot, sweaty, outdoor gig with mine last Friday, and the action felt great. I have no complaints at all. I play on real acoustic grand pianos all the time, including my own Kawai and a Steinway at my piano lesson. I'd tell you to keep yours and enjoy it!

Charles is exactly right. What the middle pedal does on a real acoustic piano is to hold up any dampers that are already up. If the dampers are up because you're holding a key down, those dampers will remain raised. If all the dampers are up because you're holding down the sustain (damper) pedal, all the dampers will stay raised if you hold down the middle pedal.* Therefore, it sounds like your middle pedal is behaving properly. BTW, did you know that if you put the CGP-700 in Duet mode, the right pedal is sustain for the right half of the keyboard, and the left pedal is the sustain for the left half? Each player gets their own sustain pedal. * There's a slight chance I'm wrong about this. I will double check on my acoustic piano after my wife is up and I will report back if I'm incorrect.

And it's just a Mac, not a MAC.

I use a Mac and I've never had problems with setting up the USB stick and putting the correct files on it. Some Mac users have, and I don't think it's been isolated as to why. First, format the USB stick as FAT32 or DOS or whatever Disk Utility says like that. NOT HFS+. It's easier to do the formatting on the PX-5S but this should work. Second, if you're using Safari, under Preferences - General, uncheck "Open 'Safe' files after downloading." THEN go to Casio's site and download the update.bin file for 1.13, and put it on the USB drive. Be sure not to put it in any folder on the USB drive, just at the top level. From there you should be able to follow Mike's directions for updating the firmware. Let us know how it goes.

I didn't ask him if he would be happy with PD synthesis as part of a new model. That would be interesting. I wonder if Casio would do better with that than a standalone CZ. I don't know how the other company is doing with their classic reissues.

I have the Burn but I haven't messed with the MIDI controllability of it yet. There are some groups on Yahoo! and Facebook that cover it and you may want to join and ask there. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MojoMusicians/info https://www.facebook.com/groups/962387123793409/