Casiokid

33 minutes ago, vbdx66 said:

Can't the "freeze" function be put to that effect in lower-end keyboards which have this function such as the S400?

Only when the 'freeze' has been saved in a registration

This inconsistency of tone/voice volumes seems fairly common in many of the lower end keyboards regardless of manufacturer.  More expensive, top end keyboards have a 'global'' feature  which enables players to customize their preferred  settings throughout, thereby, overriding the manufacturers default settings.

I heard a rumor, a while back, that Casio had upgraded their keybed action with the release of the Ct-S1/400/450/......  On the Gearfacts (1000V vs e425) video, keybeds are compared  which was stated that the e425 was slightly noisier and less spongy?

https://www.midikits.net/midi_chan_changer/midi_chan_changer.htm

1 hour ago, vbdx66 said:

Any clue about which looping hear she’s using? I could use that with my CT-X800.

 

I am not too interested in the speech synthesis function, more in the way you can use the speech synthesis voices to broaden the sound palette when creating new music.

To me it sounds like a pre recorded voice loop?

Yes a great video, using looping to echo her voice to great effect during the song, but she only used the voice synthesis feature right  at the very end of the song

Pity the Ct-S1000V does not allow Rhythm track editing.   Indeed the in-built Rhythms have been overlooked in the release videos.

https://www.casio.co.uk/ct-s410?utm_term=casio ct s410&utm_campaign=UK+-+Search+-+Brand+Plus+SKU+-+Casio+Instruments+-+Exact&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=5484644598&hsa_cam=11542180970&hsa_grp=130160647088&hsa_ad=570758741514&hsa_src=g&hsa_tgt=kwd-1368119871749&hsa_kw=casio ct s410&hsa_mt=e&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gclid=Cj0KCQiA5aWOBhDMARIsAIXLlkfB3We0SBKxsbpU-21oAXumoskdRDGhV7GKLCJslgn7A_NVnOUpM4MaAv-hEALw_wcB

The S410 is supplied with a pedal. Otherwise it is just the same as the s400

Compact set up. -What PA are you using Hugh?

I'd welcome someone to simply explain these Midi manuals  -so that we can all understand them practically.  Whoever writes Midi manuals also assume everybody knows all the abbreviations ? 

See this link -it might help you:

http://www.casiomusicforums.com/index.php?/topic/14108-ctk-7000-and-bass-pedals/&do=findComment&comment=41994

Also you need to be set up for midi setting C

Any tips for putting together a big orchestral type, busy, movie-like backing track with my keyboard's on-board sequencer ?  A suggestion is made to lay down first a ghost track of the main theme to help keep things together whilst building the sequence.  In live performance I intend to play live this main theme. 

In the past I've learnt a lot from Brad's examples on Facebook, where he even records registration changes in the sequencer.    But I just want some help in getting started.

Interesting video: 

When a 'crash' (see above) occurs it's impossible to define what caused it ie the keyboard, device or host unit?  This is the reason why nowadays top of the range arrangers, with the exception of Roland arrangers all have 5-pin Midi DIN.  USB/Midi is designed for computer use.

A WARNING:

In my experience there are issues in using USB/Midi host units.  They are certainly not as reliable as the old conventional 5-Pin Midi DIN.  For instance I've had them 'crash ' on me during performance with tones hanging/sticking which I've never experienced in using keyboards with midi set-ups using the traditional 5-Pin Midi DIN

At best USB/Midi units are a compromise of the real thing namely 5-Pin Midi DIN.

I know a guy who plays his MZ-X500 from his Pa4X 76

Korg keyboards operate with the same midi channels for Upper 1 & 2 and Lower 1 & 2 (Korg equivalent R 1, 2, 3 and L) so by coupling the MZ via midi cables with a Korg keyboard you could access and operate the MZ by means of a Korg keyboard

As I've said before Brad because of you this is the best music forum going !

Bag 1 by Thomann (I think?) which are relatively inexpensive but have good zips and cardboard glued together with PVA 

Regards

OR:

The use of hot melt glue guns are great for sticking plastic and the glue has the advantage of being relatively easy to remove without leaving a mess on the plastic components

Alternatively, if its from the inside of the case you could also try 'welding' the two sides of the crack together with the hot tip of soldering iron