CZ-1: Replacing Headphone and Line Out Jack Sockets?

[synchrosystem]

Greetings all, I'm recent new owner of a Casio CZ-1 needing a touch of rehab.

 

The main issue I need to solve is that the Headphone and Line Out sockets (all three in total) are not producing stereo audio. 

 

With the Headphone socket when I wiggle the headphone jack in there, I can sometimes get all the contacts working and hear stereo. 

 

With the Line Out sockets, nothing I do makes the right channel audible.

 

My questions are:
1. My guess is that the sockets need replacing. Could anything else be causing this issue other than the sockets?

2. The Line Out sockets are stereo not mono... right?

3. If I replace the sockets, must I find the same Jalco parts, or will sockets from other makers/brands work just as well?

4. Any tips/watchouts regarding removing the old sockets and installing new ones? I'm a soldering novice at best.

5. I've pushed in the back of the two Line Out sockets (see ? in second pic), so maybe ignore that as an issue

 

Example of a Jalco part I found for the headphone socket (JS-5077):
[url]https://www.actionhardware.co.uk/parts-online/index.php?route=product/category&path=34_90[/url]

 

Thanks in advance!

 

[synchrosystem]

Reading in other forums/posts that Line Outs are meant to be mono... so I would need a mono cable. Plugging stereo Headphones into the Line Outs would therefore only produce sound in one channel.

Am I understanding this right?

[giano]

hi synchrosystem and congratulations for your new CZ-1!

 

By experience, it is easy to damage a board. Before anything else I would buy a good contact spray and use on the headphone PCM contacts, socket and even on the headphone connector before plugging it in.

Your CZ-1 is over 30 years old, there is a chance that this is all it needs...

 

 

[IanB]

Yes the Line Outs are mono so they are working fine. As giano says, try giving the Headphone socket a squirt of switch cleaner e.g. Servisol. Alternatively the internal contacts may have lost their springiness after all these years.

 

The part you've linked to looks exactly the same. Pretty amazing this many years later, but it looks like it will just drop in as a replacement. There are soldering tutorials on YouTube these days, I'd advise watching a few if it's your first time. You will need a desoldering tool, the plunger type is cheap and will be fine for this. The major thing is not using too much heat which can lift the circuit tracks off the board. The solder will be stubborn to melt after many years and the trick there is to *add* a bit of fresh solder first, which encourages the old stuff to melt. Also, make sure you don't use unleaded solder on these boards, all the solder on there is the good stuff with the lead in and the two types don't mix.

[synchrosystem]

Hi Giano and Ian, this is supremely helpful. Giano, I'm not sure what the headphone connector and contacts are in comparison to the socket itself, but clearning with Servisol sounds like a great start. I assume I could try this while the headphone socket is still soldered to the board. 

 

If that's not working, taking Ian's advice to desolder the old socket and sold the new. To avoid using too much heat, would I ensure not to keep the soldering iron in contact with the solder for too long (adding fresh solder will help that)?

 

Cheers both!

[Chas]

Also note that sometimes output problems with the CZ series are caused by an audio relay. These are known to cause output issues as they age, and can be either restored or replaced. I'll see if I can find a link showing how to do this.

 

BTW, congrats on acquiring a CZ-1! I have one, along with the baby of the series, the CZ101!

[Chas]

Here you go!

 

http://youthvulture.blogspot.com/2013/11/casio-cz-1-relay-replacement.html?m=1

[IanB]

Hi synchrosystem, yes that's it. Avoid too much heating. It can be a bit hard to judge as it's partly an experience thing. The risk is that the glue holding down the circuit trace loses its stickiness and the trace lifts off. Mind you that can be fixed anyway with jumper wires (sad to admit, there's a few round the sound generator chips on my CT6500 due to some difficulty desoldering them, heh) so it's not the end of the world, but try to avoid it. Luckily jack sockets are large components with big legs so it's less tricky than small fiddly ones.

 

Regarding the Servisol yes, just squirt it into the socket hole (not too much, no need to go mad) and then wangle the plug in and out a few times to clean the contacts.

 

BTW it would be remiss of me not to "plug" my CZ editor software for Windows 10, the link is in my signature. Don't worry, it's totally free and safe!

 

Also BTW do you get a signal out of both line outs (into a mono jack cable)?

[IanB]

Chas, I think that's the relay on the far right of synchro's first picture?

[synchrosystem]

Hey Chas, thanks for the point about the relay. I have that saved in case I heard audio issues/distortion.

[synchrosystem]

Hey Ian. Thanks for those extra tips. Yes, both line outs work. And sorry, I'm a Mac user. I'm planning on using Patch Base on an iPad.

 

And... I've also got a Dreadbox Whiteline Filter arriving to use with the CZ-1, having seen a few bods on Ebay running CZs through a filter. Happy days.

[Chas]

On 12/18/2020 at 10:58 PM, IanB said:

Chas, I think that's the relay on the far right of synchro's first picture?

 

I believe so, it certainly look like the relay with the clear top part that can be popped off to access the internals. Amazingly, both my CZs still work fine, it appears that their output relays are functioning correctly (they'll probably fail next time I turn them on after saying that!) The only issues both have are slightly scratchy volume sliders, that I keep meaning to sort out. Those old CZs are otherwise very substantially built!