Sarwan

I'm using the keyboard in LocalCtrl: Off Mode, with the internal speakers disconnected. I'm essentially using it only as a MIDI controller. Do you think that'll keep me in safe bounds for a 1 A brick? The new brick will take at-least a month to arrive and I would really like to play via my laptop in the mean time if you guys think that would be safe?

Nvm, I had missed one connection!! It's all good now. I'll order a new brick! Thank you so much everyone for your input! Bless u all! I can't tell you all how relieved I am

Hey folks.. So the good news: its powering up. The bad news: I can't hear anything. Checked using Midi, getting input from keybed. So I'm assuming something isn't right with the speakers? Could it be this brick doesn't have enough juice to power the speakers? Its rated 12 V - 1 A .. I can expect some sound? no?

Alright, I will keep these things in mind. That's the plan Jokeyman123, once I have it tested, if the supply is the issue then I'll get a new once. Since its not easy to get it shipped where I live and the original one is a bit expensive too, so no point in spending on it if I'm not sure. IanB, I'll unplug the internal speakers from the main PCB when testing. I'll try all these things after my mid-term tomorrow. Thanks folks, will keep you updated.

I have a question. Getting a new AC Adapter could take up-to a month for now, given the lock-down/quarantine requirements where I live. I have 12V AC/DC Adapter, except that its rated at 12V - 1A, whereas the Casio Adapter is rated at 12V - 1.5 A, and neither the pin sizes, nor I'm assuming the polarity matches Do you think it is wise that I cut off the pin plus a small section of wire off the Casio adapter, and couple it with the 12V - 1A AC/DC Adapter? Would that work for the sake of testing? What are some of the considerations I'll need to take in terms of polarity? I was reading that the Casio Adapter has an internal third pin as-well, is that correct?

Hey, IanB, when testing the pins for 1.26 V, I did not see that value on any of the pins when pressing the power-on button. I'll check again, could it be that it was very short-impulse that the multi-meter cannot register? Also, I check the potential short-circuit across pin 4. Also, yes, good points guys (I really hope that is the case)... that thought did occur to me, but I wasn't quite sure about it. Plus, getting a new AC Adapter in these quarantine times is a bit difficult, but I'll see what I can do! Thank you folks! I will keep you updated!

Thank you for the advice CAVA and Jokeyman123. I tried the hard reset, that didn't seem to do that job. The issue here is it only powers up momentarily, like the screen goes white for a moment before its dead again. Not even the red-lights power up. The white screen turning on is indicative that the power does indeed reach its essential components, but perhaps only momentarily before it goes back down. Adding to that one thing that I did notice is that, there is a voltage drop across the across terminals at the input jack, when I press the power-on button. Could this be indicative of a short-circuit somewhere in the circuitry? I tried removed all the external components attached i.e. speakers, sub-woofers, pitch wheel, key-sensors, and tried to power the main unit alone, thinking perhaps maybe one of these external components could be malfunctioning/shorting, but no luck there either. I also tried checking the LA5756 (link to its datasheet) switching IC installed on board but couldn't figure out how it was supposed to work. See if you can figure something out on the attached link. (Some debugging results I had on the IC: 12 volts on the pin 1, and there was voltage jump to about 0.6 volts or so, when pressing the power-on button on the pin 2) P.S It's just really difficult to figure out if some voltage is wrong on the PCB, given its complexity, without a schematic 😕

Hey folks, I'm facing an issue with my Casio PX 350. All of sudden today, it decide to no longer power on. Pressing the power-on key results in it only turning on momentarily (its screen goes white) and then it goes down black again in a flicker. I checked AC Adapter's output with a multi-meter, its shows a voltage of 11.94 - 12 V, which I guess should imply it doesn't have any issues. I opened up the Privia (It's out of warranty - I've had the keyboard for two years - and have fixed issues regarding dust over sensor keys, and I'm an electrical engineering undergrad, so I'm comfortable around its insides) and checked it's power supply PCB for a bad solder on the input jack's bracket. Testing over its terminals on the PCB also showed a stable 11.94 - 12 V, so no issue there. Beyond that I couldn't figure stuff out, or more honesty was just to sad/disappointed to work on it. (The piano was very personal to me, idk if that makes sense) Can someone here help me out as to how do I about further debugging this issues? or someone who might have faced this issues. Is there any service manual available for the PX 350 or its power supply PCB that I could maybe study to figure out where the problem might lie? Any help would be appreciated. My country doesn't have an third-party or even the official Casio repair services available, so sending it in for service isn't possible, and I lack the finances to get a new piano anytime soon.. so that's a major bummer. My only hope for now is to somehow resolve the issue with the aid of my few EE skills that maybe applicable. Kind Regards, Sarwan Shah