pianokeyjoe

So I saw a youtube video from Keyboarder Hoarder and in it he was featuring the Casio CPS101. Now, mind you, I thought I had seen and played almost every classic Casio keyboard there was at some point in my life, but nooooo! So I tried to hear as best I could and compare the tones to some model I have heard or owned before or currently own. And I have to tell ya, non of the units I have played or owned sound like it! So I went ahead and found one on Ebay cheapish and bought it right away! It arrived today and I played and listened to the tones both with and without Chorus and touch response. Did you know that the tone changes when you activate or deactivate the touch response on these older units? Not all sounds, but some. So I listened to the pianos and vibe, and pipe organs and so on and I noticed digital artifacts like FM in the pianos, and vibes sounds with fades from pulse to a more square wave pulse(narrow to then wider pulse). I noticed on pipe organ 2 that it is more flute like but when you engage the touch response the attack changes to a percussive style blip tone with the flute sound softer afterwards. But here is the thing: Have I heard these sounds before?? CT6000? Casio Tone 701? Maybe the Casiotone 101? or the 201? I know these sounds are repeated in another model but which one? It is NOT, I repeat NOT the CPS201! Now speaking of the CPS201, You guys may or may not remember me speaking of a strange Casio CPS model that I have not seen again since I played it back in 1987 called the CPS210? Well, this CPS101 is adding further credence to the aforementioned CPS210(CPS201 but with MIDI and plastic case instead of metal and power supply instead of built in PSU). Yeah... The CPS101 looks like a stripped down version of the CPS210! I know this cause upon looking at it, I now remember the chorus effect, and the plastic case with a smaller bevel at the key pivot point, the buttons were smaller like on the CPS101 and the MIDI with touch response keys! The 9VDC wall wart input instead of the massive heavy metal bottom and built in power supply of the CPS201 which I knew seemed a bit different to the CPS210. So? Have I heard the CPS101 before? Is there a CPS210 that came out in late 1987 at the same time the CPS101 did?? Also, the AUTO HARMONIZE feature which is in the CPS201 was in the CPS210 and When I saw that feature in the CT630(MT600 fullsized),it reminded me of the CPS210 cause before I played that particular model, I NEVER HEARD of such feature as autoharmonize. Then I saw it shortly after in the CT370 that was released in early 1988, about a few months after I played the CPS210. The sounds in the CPS101 sounds nice, different, not too cheesy not too synthy but certainly I have heard those tones in another model of the time frame but does anyone KNOW which one? My CT701 and CT6000 are buried under a ton of other keyboards and boxes right now so I can not confirm..

@HelfriedOk thankyou for clearing it all up. Hmm.. that is a strange thing indeed! I have one unit myself, and I never thought to explore the rhythm bleeding through at 0 volume thing and the hum? YES!! The CT6000,CT6500(see the comments on THAT keyboard in this forum), and some other models with CHORUS analog chip installed, DO hum! You are correct, the CT6000 and other MAINS LINE built in Casio keyboards of that era did hum! LOL! Sorry I was so slow to remember 😛 But yes, I even posted a question like yours but about the CT6500 which also smells of electronics when turned on. I reckon if we could back engineer these boards, we can find a way to sum up the voltages into a nice clean 12VDC to power up the instrument with and use an external Mains to 12VDC regulated power supply instead... So it seems, the mystery, as far as we know, is solved, YES, these built in power supply Casio keyboards DO hum and the rhythm bleeding in at 0 volume, may or may not be a after effect from the power amp inside and the mains power all mingling real nice and crunchy in there..

upon looking at the original bed, it is not rust eaten through so it is still salvageable.. scrape and sand away the rust and spray clear lacquer or poly to protect the metal and prevent rust from coming back, the reassemble the keybed and put new keys where the missing or broken ones are gone and you should be good.. for the keybed.. the rest of that damage.. ouch! "QUICK! the baking soda and white vinegar!!"

@CYBERYOGI =CO=WindlerYes sir! Those keys are the SAME. The issue here is he needs a metal frame keybed that is 61 keys long and the matching contact boards and rubbers to boot. The keys, he can buy from many places but the length of keybed and the corresponding contact boards and by default, rubber contact strips, all need to be for 61 keys. Casio did not make too many full metal frame 61 note keybed based instruments in the late 80s that would match the CZ2000S/3000/5000. I am almost tempted to say the CT670/680 are NOT full metal frames either. I do not own one to verify.. Anyone out there own a CT670 to verify this? The keys themselves are on pretty much all early to late 80s full sized CT and CZ keyboards. The other option if you @central616 and @MC Guiver are willing and able to, is find a older Casio keybed from a Casiotone 7000,701,403?,CT610, or gulp.. 101, 202 or other 61 note Casio of that time with metal keybed and you could in theory adapt that keybed and contact boards that come with it, to the CZ5000. Sure, you may need to do some ribbon cable to contact board tracing and testing and maybe reworking, but it is doable.. Desperate times call for desperate measures guys!!

Hello again. So you have another CT6000 with the same issue? So you can play the rhythms louder on this new unit? Same volume as the melody? Or is it also too low a volume like the first sound example CT6000? The hum is going to be a grounding issue. Chances are your electrical system in your house or at least in that room is without a ground(Earthing or earthing pin?). In the USA, if the Casio is 3 pins mains and the socket is only 2 pins with an adapter to fool the 3 pin plug into a 2 pin, that is part of the hum issue there. As for the rhythm section I would need a sound example with the rhythm section playing at normal volume as the melody to hear if it is the same as the first unit. If it IS, I suspect electrical mains issue! Ok in PUERTO RICO, my native land, the not so bright electricians, will wire up the poles of the wiring backwards AT THE ELECTRIC MAINS PANEL!! In other words, here in the USA and Puerto Rico the mains line wiring is BLACK is LIVE 125VAC, WHITE is NEUTRAL or 0V, and ground or Earthing, is bare wire or green and is ideally also 0V. IF the socket is wired backwards with the LIVE wire hooked up to the side that is supposed to be NEUTRAL?, then the electronic device will NOT work or will not act right. Case in point: I plugged my microwave into the socket in the kitchen in the house in Puerto Rico, I was renting, and the microwave would not work but I plug a light in and it works.. I found out after removing the faceplate that the socket was wired reversed. As such, the Microwave which is POLARIZED and requires the live wire to be live and the neutral to be neutral, also requires an earthing or grounding pin to be wired properly in order to function correctly and safely if at all. I reckon your Casio needs this same strict but sensible electrical connection as it is a 3 pin device and as such like a computer system, needs the same live to live, neutral to neutral earth to earth setup. Check your sockets wiring. It sounds stupid I know, but trust me, I had to fix my electronic devices not working right by doing the electrician's job for him, correctly.. and then? It worked! YAY!

For all parties involved here in English y en Espanol, You can find parts via Ebay(best bet) or Syntaur(keys and some limited parts IF you are lucky). Another best bet is local fleamarkets, Facebook marketplace, Craigslist in the USA, and pawn or trade/swap shops. Sadly, do not go to authorized repair dealers.. their prices will be astronomical and you are better off just waiting to buy a whole other keyboard instead!!

Por casualidad? Sus plaquetas madres estan bien? Y las plaquetas de la fuente de potenzia esta bien? Si SI? Pues hay esperanza para su CZ5000. Asegurate de revisar el compartamento de pilas AA debajo del teclado. Ese es el lugar donde se coloca las dos pilas para memoria interna. Que ese compartamento no este corrompido. Si todo bien ahi y las plaquetas madre(las que estan colocadas en la parte de abajo del teclado, no las de control panel/keybed). Vos podes comprar partes del control panel de varios lugares en el net pero las madres y fuente se hace mucho mas dificil. El keybed se reemplasa con CT670/CT680 y CT610/CT640, y otros del tiempo 86-89. Mucho mas las teclas que el frame de metal que es para 61 teclas y en metal total. Tristemente muchos son 49 teclas no mas y eso no te ayuda. Otros son 61 teclas pero su keybed es mezcla de metal para los punto pivot de las teclas con el resto del keybed moldeado en plastico integrado al aparato completo(Ejemplo CT605).

google Casio keyboard soundfont. I just did and found both soundfonts and wav files from various sites. Some of which I have visited in the past.. Also when you go to general soundfont download sites, type in Casio in the search engines from those sites. 8bit soundfonts is another search term that WILL yield gigabytes of sounds and soundfonts! Be aware, I am using Firefox and Linux NOT IE and WINDOWS, so I am free to roam about the net, so use caution if you are Windows/IE user..

look harder and deeper, there are soundfonts of the MT65, SK1, and CZ. Sadly, there are not that many so be aware of this. The MT65 is actually mislabeled on the net as PT68(MT68). I have those soundfonts from the year 2000. I do not know if these are still available in the modern more restricted internet but it is worth looking.

Hello, it is electronic issue with the key multiplexer chip. @CYBERYOGI =CO=Windlercould very likely help you there as well as @IanB with this issue. I remember it being reported here before. The sound chips(2 of them I think), output every other note each to allow for more polyphony and sound layering. Could be however, a simple issue of the main volume or melody volume acting up on you which IS dual channel(stereo). Because you do say the you can play every other note, then try that once dead note and it plays but then the previous sounding note next to it does not sound, leads me to believe it is the audio volume line or pot(slider) being dirty or defective. I have 3 of these keyboards but I do not have immediate access to them right now to better help but at least this gives you a starting point

Sadly I have the issue with my 2 PT20 units that they do not work. They both turn on, but one unit has strange sounds and not quite working and the other just sits there dead but the power LED is on but no response from the keyboard or buttons. I do have experience with people plugging in the wrong power supply. The Casio PT20 uses 7.5V DC NEGATIVE CENTER POLARITY adapters. If you use a 9VDC negative center adapter you should be fine as many of my Casio keyboards with the 7.5VDC worked fine on 9VDC for short periods of time. Now 6VDC which is what the Casio PT1 and VL1 uses, is a different matter. You can use a 7.5VDC adapter for short periods of time with those but not 9. If the PT20 was powered on with a 12VDC or higher adapter, then it's goose IS cooked. Likewise, if you used ANY power adapter with the standard most common POSITIVE CENTER POLARITY on an Early 80s Casio then you have a possible dead keyboard too. Some newer KORG and ROLAND synths use this same NEGATIVE CENTER barrel pin polarity and those power adapter are more expensive and hard to find so there are many of these keyboards getting fried by those that do not have the correct adapter to begin with and just go trying the keyboard with the first thing they have on hand only to burn the instrument up. I fix these and collect them since I was a teen so I have enough experience to say. Sadly if your father used possibly the wrong polarity adapter and then a higher voltage, then that would be a double whammy for the poor thing. Dead batteries left in the Casio keyboards is also a common thing I see when I buy these used and sure enough, dead batteries left inside means corrosive material has leaked all inside the keyboard ruining the circuits inside like indeed is the case with BOTH my PT20 keyboards. IF that is not the case for your father's PT20, have him try batteries to see if it turns on and plays correctly.. Thats step one.. Step two, open her up and take pics and post here so we can determine the failure IF we can.

The MT260 is of the first generation all PCM tonebank Casio keyboards released in the Summer of 88 to 89 with a transition into the better series tonbank editable keyboards of the Summer of 90-92. The MT260 like all those Tonebank keyboards use 4 part(4 midi channels) multitimeral midi reception AND transmission. In order to play midi notes into the FL Studio, you need to set FL studio midi settings for midi OUT to global or all ports or all channels. I have not used FL with Win7 since 2017. But there IS a setting for you that you need to enable in the midi settings page midi OUT. For midi IN you need to set it to all channels or global as well. Enable midi ports:00 or what ever it is assigned to FL, and thus ANY track you choose with a VST, can then be played from the Casio keys, which in turn will allow piano roll note input as well. Now if the issue is you can not HEAR the MT260 play when you input notes in piano roll with your mouse, then be sure to set your track midi channel to 1 of the first 4 midi channels as the Casio only responds to the first 4 midi channels. This has been the standard for Casio midi starting with the CZ and HT line of synths and I think.. The CT6000/CT6500 keyboards. Basically you get Bass(channel 1),chord(channel 2),arpeggio or obligato(channel 3), and Melody(channel 4). On the Tonebank and HT keyboards one of those is swappable with DRUMS but you still only have 4 midi channels. ALSO, and this is very KEY! The Tonebank keyboards like yours only have a limited key range! The key range depends on the amount of keys on the keyboard itself and midi reception does not expand it(ie: 49 keys, only 49 notes range in midi too). So if you are trying to trigger notes outside the range of your Casio's physical keys octave range, you will not hear sound either.. I found that out in Church one day when plugging in my MT240 into a 88 note Roland digital piano and I only got 49 notes triggering from the Roland! So set your midi settings in FL to correspond with your Casio of only 4 midi channels.

Yes I know right?! I wish Casio had made a White version of the CT320 and CT310 which both have similar cases as the CT102 but with a far better set of features and tones. Ah well, here is to wishing 😛

Hello again!, the website is only a file hosting site. I downloaded the pdf in Linux on Firefox. It is fine. You need the service manual trust me.

I will be back home in a month. I will have to take my unit apart and follow along to see what is what. Since you have power to the unit, the extra fuse may be some stray from what ever person tried to mess with it before you. As for the rhythms section, seems it may be a bad slider

I have to say, the coin battery is soldered on the board, and no, it is not that easy to pop off. You will need to desolder the battery off the board and then install and solder a coin battery holder instead that you can then swap dead coins out far easier like on computers and modern synths. If you do not know how to do this work, get some one that does. Never try your self or you will ruin the synth needlessly. The fuse came off the power supply board only. Check the Power supply board and you WILL find the missing fuse location. The other place that uses a fuse may be the Audio amp board which is on the opposite end from the power supply and is installed to the TOP section of the keyboard next to the right speaker and has a long aluminum plate that is the POWER AMP heatsink. Which could explain the no beats volume. But that could be a dead or dirty slider too since the slider is more exposed to the elements. A fuse bouncing around inside and yet the keyboard powers up, is odd so check that PSU board and POWER AMP board for that mystery. The no sound for beats, check your sliders. For the battery, you could snip the leads right AT THE BATTERY, and then you can solder a coin battery holder with wire leads pre wired, to the appropriate battery leads that you leave on the board(you cut only the battery away and leave the lead stumps in), making sure the (-) and (+) leads correspond to the new coin battery compartment lead wires(Black for Negative or (-), and red for Positive or (+)).

Sadly the only keyboards that Casio made with that mini-mid sized 32 note key strip set was :SK1,SK5,SK8 and their alternate universe brethren in Radioshack World. Also notice the CASING style and size and shape as that had to do with the key type too since the keybed is part of the casing. You would also notice that plastic molding strip above the pivot point of the keys that hides the key strip screws and has alternate functions printed on it? That is also a very unique to Sk1,5,8 detail. So sadly you need to find keyboards or parts on Ebay, or fleamarkets or anywhere you find these SK models by shear grace of God. Again, NO OTHER MODELS have these keys, the clue is in the casing design details.

Not worth fixing, just use the wall power and thank God lol! The power input is molded to the white plastic so no real elegant fix. Just enjoy it. If you want you can always make a external battery pack with 5 AA batteries plugged in the power input hole making sure the center pin is NEGATIVE.. Ebay is your friend

Ahh, ok thankyou for clearing it up. Ok. For the Casio MT series that uses 7.5VDC you can buy a NEGATIVE CENTER 7.5VDC(not AC)at 600mA or higher amps, powersupply. The barrel plug size I do not know by heart, but when you search Ebay for power supply for Casiotone MT65 you should find the one you need. Just make sure the polarity is correct. Now, as for battery operation not working, the metal inside the hole that is bend is a switch to switch between the wall power and batteries so it must be broken and not making contact to make complete the circuit to batteries power. Lets hope that is all it is. Looking at your pictures, your boards are all very clean which is amazing! So battery corrosion inside or water damage is not evident. Let us know what happens when you get the correct PSU for it.

I assume from this statement it works on batteries. If that is so, then the issue is the power adapter HOLE. It looks like the metal contact inside is bent or broken. That contact is responsible for switching between Wall power and batteries when no plug is inserted into the hole. I forget which way it does it, but essentially, if you do not have a power plug inserted, the contact switches to batter power only, while switching OFF AC power input. But if a plug is inserted into the hole, that contact switches in the other direction allowing power to be fed from the AC adapter but cuts power to the battery compartment to avoid back feeding power to the batteries and thus exploding them in the keyboard. From the look of the hole, seems some one shaved some of the plastic to make the hole bigger and bent or broke the metal contact at the bottom of the hole so that now the thing is stuck on battery power mode only. You say in the title DOES NOT POWER ON. But you say you used it with fresh batteries. Sooo.. did you try a Center Negative 7.5VDC adapter and it did not power on but with batteries it does power on?

You tried it with batteries and it turns on? Or you tried with batteries and it did NOT turn on either? From the looks of it the unit looks very clean for the age and it requires 7.5VDC at 600mA NEGATIVE CENTER PIN Polarity for the AC to DC power adapter.

ground loop issue which is common on audio equipment, may be one of the issues. The hum, I mean, not the buzz. The drums leaking means the sliders need cleaning and the audio amp section may be acting up due to the grounding loop. I know this from my DOD flanger pedal which had the same thing happen.

Huh? I have seen the grey color version of the CT102. The CT102 WHITE is my favorite color Casios but yep I seen the grey version too. I always thought it was CT102 also, although it could be a different model

That retriggering of some of the sounds is what I like most about the HT series synths. I noticed the CZ does not do that unless you really make an effort to make sounds that will do that. The whaawhaah sound really is my fav and I am surprised it is a limitation and not a feature lol! wow. Casio.. where miracles really do, never cease!

@SzoThanks for the update! Yes the CTK630 had the pitch bend buttons. The wheel came to mind for CT870/877. Now Again my point was the CTK630 was a very affordable entry level model that packed ALOT of pro features at the time, for the price which is why I bought it and was able to make some of my first pro level compositions which was not possible with anything I had to date. But does the CT870 have touch response keys? I did not even remember the purple pads being touch sensitive lol! Wow, I need to buy another CTK630. Hey! I think I have subbed to your channel! I think.. Let me see 😛