pianokeyjoe

If it is a no power situation , the power supply is at fault. Sadly, it is most likely the capacitors and, or the voltage regulators. But indeed when there is no visible or smell signs, it is the regulators, diodes or rectifier which can fail after so many years with no obvious signs or warnings. The crystal material inside those devices breaks down. Trust and know, that if the caps go, you will see it and smell it lol. There should be plenty of help here from other users that can supply you with a schematic and a better clue. It is early morning here for me so I am giving my best answer from past experience. on various hardware. I too own, a CT701.. "gulp", I have not tested it yet in years..gulp gulp.. Doh!

Tone mix mode takes the 8 voices and mixes them down to monophonic but with 4 oscillators mixed(most of the better sounding tones are layered with 2 tones or "lines".),thus a thicker sound. The CZ 101 "lines" setup is as follows: 2 DCOs, and 2 "lines" per DCO. So 2 tones can be layered and each tone has 2 "lines" or oscillators. The polyphony is 8 max but only in single DCO mode with only "line 1" single(not layered). Very boring sounding but usable with effects machine. 4 note poly is the normal expected limit with most presets being layered with either 2 lines or both DCOs with one line each or in the case of mix mode, all four parts/lines mixed in a limited set of combinations. Now the here is something you need to know that you may not have known.. The CZ101 is 4 midi channel multitimberal. BUT each midi channel is monophonic. and receive only a single line or single oscillator tone per midi channel. If you layer lines/DCOs and so on, you get less midi channels to work with and mix mode is a mystery to me as far as midi because I never got that far with my unit before I regrettably sold it. I DO have the CZ3000 and CZ5000 and can confirm you get 4 and 8 Note poly play with mix mode as those keyboards are 16 note poly max. They are also 8 part midi channel multitimberal.

2200 microfarad 16V electrolytic capacitor is what you need..

Hi, yes, the issue sounds like a simple loose trim pot. At worse you just need to find another to replace it with which will be quite cheap, and at best, a resolder of the one in there now. Hope it works! I love my MT52/CT320s!

uh man! I had the same issue with my MT500 and I fixed it and now since it has been years(2018), I forgot what I fixed on it lol! I do know it was some simple component and not a transistor or ic. I think it was a diode as that is easy to check while in the circuit and they tend to act like a fuse that can blow easily when you tamper with the wrong circuits trying to circuit bend lol.. Oh my circuitbending dayz :D. The other could very well BE a resistor but assuming you nor the previous owner did any circuit bending and the battery situation is good, then you need to check the ribbon cables that go between the mainboard(biggest board) and the POWER/audio amplifier board(the board with your DC power jack and audio jacks). It could be also that some one tried using a center positive 9vdc power supply instead of the correct but harder to find negative center 7.5vdc power supply and that caused a diode to pop between the amplifier IC and the tone gen ic.. COme to think of it I think thats IT! Check the amp section. I hear the buzzing of the casio itself, and it is different with every sound you select so yes, all is well with the logic side of things, you need to concentrate now of the audio amp ic and test the resistors and mainly the diodes around that as those diodes would be used to prevent audio feedback and voltage back feed between ic chips, etc. You almost there my friend!

This sounds like a popped resistor or the cpu for the main sounds went bad. However, check the melody volume slider. Seriously, check the volume slider. The accompaniment section has a different cpu for it as well as different volume controls for it separate from the melody(main voices)section. check for solder or wire joints and the simplest.. spray electronic contact cleaner that has teflon or some other lubricant in it! Has to be lubricated ELECTRONIC contact cleaner, not ELECTRIC/TV contact cleaner! vigorously slide that sucker left and right to see if you hear static and sound while holding down some melody keys, say in the upper octaves? Report back what you come up with.

YES!! Thankyou! Now there are the best fit weighted keys for a full time musician if I ever heard and saw :D.

Since we are talking best weighted keys fit for a full time musician, Can I ask what Casio digital piano uses REAL wood keys?

LOL LOL! You would think that would help? But you would be wrong.. sadly.. And leaving the darn batteries in the Casio. that is the even worse problem since batteries leaking into the electronics causes much more damage than wrong polarity which blows on or 2 components and you can usually fix that but eaten components and traces? Not so easy to fix..

@Etaoin Shrdlu ok, my original thought about that wrong polarity was the correct one at least for you. Ok, I have 2 specimens to work with so it will be interesting what I come up with for both.

When ever I can dig out my PT20s, I will try this fix. Oh OH!! I thinks we got it!! Thankyou @dannzomatic

Ah yes, THAT old monster rearing it's ugly head again.. The old "using the wrong polarity on a Casio" bit. Yeah it is good at least no full damage. Though my other one does seem to have the memory reset stuck issue that @CYBERYOGI =CO=Windler mentioned to me but both my specimens did have battery compartment corrosion soooo.. Lets see where all this goes! LOL!

Oh man! SAME issue as mine! Look at your battery compartment for corrosion. Seems to be a common issue with all battery operated Casios that when the batteries are left to rot in them, the alkali eats circuits and causes havoc. I still can not fix mine. So yes, if anyone knows what is up and can offer a solution, we are all ears! Sad.. such a nice little keyboard. I have 2 of them actually, and one of them turns on but makes no sound. The other, makes the SAME sounds as yours.

The FZ1 DOES have a built in rudimentary wave forms synthesizer built in ROM BUT, to access this, you have to be in create sample or create preset mode? and select sound source.. internal waveforms.. instead of mic or disk or line in. Emm.. I never owned the CASIO FZ1 but I have the YAMAHA A4000 and they share similar operation in this. There are videos on youtube that showcase the CASIO FZ1 built in synthesizer. Now.. You are correct. The FZ1 is by default, quiet as it will seek to want to load SAMPLES by default, as does the A4000 from Yamaha as well as the Roland W30/S50 which also has a rudimentary synth built in but to access those wave forms, you have to enter the menu system in the sample create or edit function of each of those samplers. So.. Not broken, you do need to either LOAD samples from disk or line/mic(live recording), or select a internal waveform. I am not sure, but I think.. think, it may be saw,triangle, and square waves?

Oh man... Ok, the battery leaking debacle.. That is a bane of my Casio collecting existence. I can fully assure you that there IS damage from the leakage in the MT400V. First thing you need to do is take the open unit to a very well lit room and get a magnifying glass or something like it so you can see up close, the circuits and components. You WILL see traces that are darker than the rest of them which would be green. Also you WILL find component leads, which include IC chips, that have corroding or crusting or rusting. And lastly, if you look closely, there will be some kind of brown sticky goo or residue on the boards. The biggest giveaway will be the crusty green corrosion on some of the component leads and circuits. A saving method you can use is to apply white distilled vinegar with a tooth brush to all the boards and then wash the boards after thorough brushing with the vinegar, with bottle water or better, distilled water and then spray electronics contact cleaner that is plastics safe, and let the boards dry real good. Basically, a board washing may save the MT. IF you see corrosion at ribbon cable points, then you may have a real issue that may not be helped with a wash. I hate batteries in musical instruments... I do not trust them anymore.. Wonder why? To @Jokeyman123 YES, the same guy lol. Love his table hooters page! He has a wealth of info on the internals of Casiotone that amazes me for sure!

Add the CPS101 to this list of keyboards that use the similar sound tech as the CT6000. The CT5500?? That one seems to be the same as the CT6500(PD Cosmo synth engine).

Well, actually, I thought some more and there are other things you need to check BEFORE you take things apart. I bought a Yamaha RS7000 sampler with my Casio RZ1 samplers on craigslist and I found out I could not get audio input when I used a STEREO 1/4 inch to stereo 1/8 plug cord from my computer or phone. I then tried using a mic but it too was stereo plug. The inputs for the RS and the RZ samplers(RS is YAMAHA), are MONO Left and MONO Right inputs only which means your cord HAS to be MONO plug not stereo! So once I really really dug deep and found a proper mono mic, all was working. Also a quick test is use a mono 1/4 plug guitar cord and plug it in and then hit sample and see if when you touch the tip of the cord plug on the other end, you get hum.. if you do not, then yes, your jack or jacks need repair. IF you DO get a hum, then you resolved the issue. DO NOT use cheap RCA audio cables with RCA to 1/4 plug adapters.. will not work right either. Also make sure your LINE vs MIC setting or switch is correct. I am not home to see my RZ1s to see what is what but that would be the sensible assumption. Yes there are midi and MT dump options. Very painfully slow and unreliable.

input jack is broken. There are solder points on the bottom of the circuit board that the input jack mounts to, that needs checked and possibly resoldered or the jack may be broken inside and thus this now becomes a repair job. $400? That is pretty high cost considering you can buy other samplers used for less or that price NEW(Roland SP404). But I know about the love of nostalgia so , I will not harp on with that. The short and skinny is you will need to take the unit apart and check the solder points under the input jack to see if they are broken or lifted off the board(the usual case is the solder pads are lifted). This is very common for ANY device with an audio INPUT jack as that is the most abused jack aside from the wall wart DC power jacks on most home electronics gear.. Ask any cell phone user how many power jacks have been broken from the plugging and unplugging of their phones. The audio input jack can be bypassed IF you know electronics and soldering well. But I will not go there right now. Lets see how this topic goes.

I have noticed more WORLD sounds and ETHNIC sounds in the latest Casio keyboards like the WK and CTX and CTK post 2010 units. Would be well worth checking models currently offered by CASIO. For more vintage synthetic but close approximation of concertinas and harmoniums, the Casiotone CT and MT keyboards from the early 1980s. The CT310 and MT65 as well as the MT45 and for later Casiotones, the CT370 and MT240. The earliest Casiotones like the 202 and 201 and the mid sized versions the MT60 and MT40 would be good options.

The headphone jack is UNDER the keys section near the front some where. Or will be directly in the front right NEXT to the keys on one of the sides. It is not in the back.

The bass section speakers just got blown. Nothing is loose, the amp board maybe about to be damaged though. Try just headphones and see if the same effect occurs and if NOT? Then it is the speakers in the bass section. That would be the best case scenario. Worst case? If you hear the fuzz in the headphones, then the AMP board is about to be damaged and you may need a replacement before the amp causes the rest of the piano to fry. Happened to me with a Roland digital piano. Now I have another one with a dead amp board too. My Yamaha Electone organ.. same thing, the bass speaker amp blew but the treble speaker section is fine. Your piano does accept audio input so if you plug a cd player into it and play the cd player/mp3 player too loud, that will kill the bass amp..

And so I rest my case LOL! 😄

Indeed! But he got some things wrong.. Casio CZ1 was used in Salt N Peppa's Push it and as we all know, Human League with the M10 and VL1 and that German group with the VL1 in DA DA DA. So yeah.. There were other groups using some Casio in their recordings in that time too but I forget who

Hi, you mentioned the ribbon cables. Check the cables again. Especially the section of the control panel where the rhythm section is. You may have inadvertently loosened one of the cable in there as that has happened to me with my unit that was wayward.

Highly Liquid UMR2 boards for midi. Check Ebay and google. As for CV or alternate midi boards, Check into ANALOG SYNTH or PIPE ORGAN midi retrofit kits. The Synth kits obviously will allow you to control the Casio internal sounds but the pipe organ kits can allow similar function. I know nothing about how to program Rasp Pi boards since I do not have one for free or cheap to try. But others in this forum should be able to help there.