Jokeyman123

I was running Windows XP pro 32-bit SP III, I now recall installing first firmware update with antivirus scanning on and it worked without a hitch (wouldn't do that again though!) I agree about being able to update and boot with SD card. Would eliminate this problem. Contacting Casio today on phone, will update here ASAP. Hell, I can drive to Dover, NJ when I'm back on my feet, not that far. I always try to act in good faith and hope the other end will respond reasonably. Part of the benefit of the new technology is improved communication (and new fun music toys!) Disadvantage is "bugs" like this. I will be real happy if I end up being part of a solution that may prevent new or existing buyers (over the holidays there will be many) from having this problem. As I am listening to Joey DeFrancesco on his Hammond blowing my doors off while writing this, I am reminded of quantum leaps in music tech. If my Leslie went belly-up or worse the B-3 coughed up a hairball during a gig, you finished if you were lucky and rich, with your other "roaded" B-3 which cost as much to repair as the buying a new XW, if you could find a good tech to do it without turning your stuff into a gumball machine with keys. Humbly submitted for your approval...................

I agree happyrat. I am not disparaging Casio, I take responsibility that I did this to my keyboard. I am stunned though, that there is no technical solution other than replacing an entire circuitboard if this is the case, I'm not sure it is until I speak directly with Casio which I will do. I will follow up and hope I can hold out for a cost effective solution, one than can be remediated simply. In case there are suddenly or gradually thousands of XW-P1s and possibly XW-G1s that become "bricked", it would seem prudent on Casio's part to come up with an easier fix for their sake and their customer's sake rather than using their legal team to say, so sorry not our problem. We may live in a"disposable" economy but I don't think the XW-P1 should fall in that category. I still paid close to 400 bucks for an (almost new and unused) XW-P1. I understand the need to keep their OS and chips under wraps, thus all the more reason to port a software solution which in the long run would cost alot less, in hardware and bad PR. There are many classic Casios out there worth using, a legacy of CZs, FZs and many others that still work well. This is a landmark instrument, they will sell many more. At least my post will prevent many others from making the same mistake, warranty or not. Enough said.

When I have a free moment, I will call customer service directly and see if I can get a repair quote out of them. I will post my results. I have never owned a keyboard that could be "crapped out" like this without being recoverable, and I've owned many. Maybe I need to communicate directly with someone from Casio Japan that might be knowledgeable about a firmware restore routine that can be re-applied through the USB port. I've done this with smartphones and tablets via "rooting" and these devices all use "embedded" firmware to boot the device up for recovery or installing custom "roms". If the XW ram is static (SRAM) it should still be capable of writing and reading data. Older "eeproms" were designed to have software "burned" into place. This firmware failure looks suspiciously similar to someone "bricking" their tablet or smartphone-suddenly no power, no screen etc. Even these can be restored if one has the right firmware. I'll be da***ed if I'm going to let this instrument become a doorstop, or pay an exorbitant repair fee simply because I was trying to update the instrument, followed directions and was blindsided by antivirus interrupting the update. If updating is this fragile and capable of completely shutting down the instrument, I'm sure I won't be the only one having this problem.

Thanks Sadko, that's it. Nothing user replaceable here. Maybe Casio will come up with a better solution if they see more than one customer having this problem. This is such an advanced and versatile instrument. Can't believe it can be completely disabled and "unrecoverable" by the user. If you find anything useful, please post.

See my post under "pooched XW" elsewhere for more details about this.

I have (since I'm sure there is no warranty since I bought second-hand) taken the XW apart to check motherboard and related components (I had previously added some piano felt under keys for lessing jarring feel at bottom of key travel so knew how to do this without damaging anything). I found 1) no socketed chips, everything is surface-mount and 2) hoping to find some type of back-up battery for memory circuits which are common in many keyboards- there isn't any. I was hoping i could somehow "hard-reset" the XW by disconnecting any battery. No criticism of the design, it is well-assembled, simple and solid. I am guessing the entire motherboard must be accessed somehow for reflashing. I don't mind sending it back but this is definitely a deficiency IMO in this otherwise well-designed instrument. I find it hard to believe that something with computer circuitry that can be updated with binary files by the "end-user" cannot be restored the same way. Mike, I think we need your help addressing this. Anyone else that is not aware of the potential for ruining your XW because anitvirus could possibly interrupt the flashing process should be informed by someone other than me especially since many users have antivirus running and are using some form of W****dows OS to flash. Make me (and potentially many othe XW users) happy by making available a flash routine that will restore this the same way it disabled everything without having to return an otherwise perfectly functioning instrument and taking the risk it will be lost or smashed in transit on the way back to Casio. PX5s users, is there a comparable problem with PX5s firmware? Thanks again for a great forum that allows for addressing these issues.

Another shot across the bow. Generalmusic Equinox. Had drawbar organ mode, with switches for key click, Leslie emulation with fast/slow adjustment (before anyone else as far as I know). Standard synth engine and PCM ROM, but huge collection of programmable sounds and waves. Programmable arpeggiator with again huge variety of arpeggios, plus a phrase sequencer and hundreds of preset phrases that can be combined and played as multi-layered loops live, while changing resonance, attack, sustain, transpose and tempo live using the sliders which also output control change through MIDI. No step sequencer. No hex mode but up to eight sounds could be split, layered etc.and fairly quickly accessed for live playing. If the interaction between these modes had been more well-implemented, (it wasn't) and the OS not so buggy (it was) this instrument was remarkably similar in concept to the XW IMO. Also had an optional plug-in board for external audio input that would be connected to synth engine for filters, modulation and effects. I'd swear Casio got some of these engineers aboard and said, OK let's really get this to interact and there is the XW. Unlike the Casio, these performance elements (phrase sequencer, organ mode, layering, live loops and playing keyboard in single or solo mode) were not connected interactively in an easily usable way, part of it's failure I think. Again, Casio seems to have examined these elements and provided such an amazing way of getting these to work together, it really feels like one is creating a type of live orchestra or ensemble performance, with the performer being the conductor. Now if only I could restore my pooched firmware, sigh.

I can throw in my 2 cents....it does have a nice feel for such an affordable instrument. After disassembling I can report it is certainly not a Rolls-Royce keybed, but especially after adding felt under the keys, I can really "sit" on these without feeling like there will be anything breaking, a common problem with many keyboards, especially weighted ones. The thin padding underneath made the clunking in mine which is why my mod. Also less shock on fingers. Very sensitive, even with extra felt. Nice wide, full-size keys. Many of the higher end instruments have fairly narrow keys, unlike a piano or Hammond and not good for technique. The XW is pretty much the same width, important to me at least.

Windows xp pro sp3 on laptops-Dell Inspiron E1505, Lenovo X60 tablet notebook, Gateway 9500, Motion M1400 tablet pc.

An update about Casio service. Have to sign in, fill in some info, logs you into their automated system. I am supposed to ship keyboard to their service center first in order to get an estimate. How about giving me an estimate first, then I'll decide whether I want to ship it before I spend the money to ship it. The problem seems fairly obvious. Corrupt firmware, needs to be restored. Again, a flashable ROM should becapable of re-installation by the user if the user can flash upgrades. It's a flashable ROM. I've flashed a half-dozen smartphones with and without bootloaders, completely restoring their OS........hhmmmm.....

Very nice, like the old patch cord synths. "Hello boys! I'm baaaaaaaaaccccccccckkkkkkkk!!!!!!!!!"

I have another post, (no flaming just info) before I saw your post, Windows install will not make any difference. since mine was bought from someone else before I boodled it, guess I am in for a pretty hefty extra expense, I am contacting Casio ASAP. Talk about an "unrecoverable error" and I thought that only happened to computers with W****doze!

No not yet. I'm still kind of immobile with crappy crutches so wouldn't be able to ship it back for roughly a month. Of course I agree it's worth restoring. I boggles my mind this is so easily pooched. Would be nice if the eeprom (if that's what's holding firmware were socketed and replaceable. I've had mine apart to modify the keybed a little, I'll nose around and see what I can find and i will contact Casio. D^^^^. grrrrr""""!!!! My bad as they say. Had no idea an antivirus would cr** this installation. Went to the 7th bargraph, stopped. I waited for 10-15 minutes no movement on the screen, tried to start the routine again by running the .exe file but nothing. If I find out anything helpful I will post. I'm pretty stubborn usually and have solved worse problems. I was finally getting to grips with the XW, poo.

I used Avast antivirus, latest version. A word to the wise, turn off antivirus active protections before you do this.

Groan.........I just pooched my XW by trying to upgrade the newest firmware, I had success with the first upgrade, but newest one.........weep.........I did it by not turning off antivirus on my Windoodoo XP laptop-which apparently interrupted the transfer despite my having everything connected properly. I understand this is unrecoverable unless it is returned to the factory. This seems unbelievable to me as anything that can be user "flashed" should be user recoverable. I haven't seen this problem since early computers. Has anyone come across any other solution for restoring? Mine is not under warranty (I think) as I bought it from someone else. A real shame that an instrument this advanced can be so easily pooched and not user restorable. What a mistake.

Mine just crapped out, on a Windows XP machine. Anti-virus screwed the upate halfway through. Can't believe the machine has to be restored by Casio at the factory. must be a better way. Bought used, probably no warranty. I've spent hours learning this instrument. A word to the wise-turn off your anti-virus in Windows or else. I will be the first to post if I come up with a better solution. It is beyond me that the entire OS can be user flashed, but cannot be user restored. Wow what a mistake.

I just purchased something called an "Auray" model FP-P1D that has a polarity switch and works with the XW-P1 no problem. It uses a standard mono 1/4 inch plug. Found it on e*** for around 15.00 including shipping. Seems nicely made, has a steel piano pedal like most other brands, a very rigid metal cover and plastic base.

Any tape adhesive must be kept clear of the plastic key tabs that hit bottom. If you use double-sided adhesive foam tape and leave the non-stick covering on top, it will work its way off and stick your keys badly. If you can find single-sided foam tape, I'd still put felt on top with double-sided tape since the sticky part underneath will come through as you compress the foam. It won't cushion as much and the felt prevents tape residue from coming through. I've restored 2 larger and more difficult keyboards like this including a Fatar-action digital piano and an Ensoniq KS-32 with piano action and several years later, still no problems.

Might post pics in a week or so, just have to take all screws off bottom again, comes apart easy-but I have to do the work sitting for now, that's why no pics. Hard to get good shots that way, but I'll get to it! Was actually fun in a demented way, I'm a tech masochist who has spent weeks trying to retore obsolete stuff with non-existent parts my specialty. So this was relatively easy. Playing it a second day-definitely worth it, feels much better. Touch sensitivity is now pretty much the same, as the tape and felt has "broken in" by my playing and pressing keys down where where sensitivity was not as good. I used fairly thin foam type double stick tape and normal thickness common felt. Definitely do not try this with any kind of glue, you are only asking for trouble. And Scott, that's quite a nice keyboard you've got there. told you to keep it away from rodents and people with large heavy things (I'm a little large and heavy and speak from experience). Is this in eBay what is called "non-working or for parts only?" Looks like it was recovered from Pompeii, or from one of thr burned-down clubs I used to play in, same thing.

It improves external part volume "certain operation" guess that clarifies things! I guess I'll have to install it and see what happens. I made my own "firmware update" in another post. It makes the keyboard firmer (added some felt under the keybed) when you bash the keys, that's as good as I can do for now. Was thinking of replacing plastic knobs with something a little more "flash", just for looks, haven't found anything yet.

To double D...Didn't have camera handy and having trouble getting around (broken foot) thus the detailed description instead. If you have experience taking keyboards apart this will be pretty easy, but i wanted to be detailed anyway. f you haven't had experience at this, I would leave it alone as it is fairly involved mechanically as you can read. And yes, it will change the velocity sensitivity somewhat-have to hit a little harder to get a sound, it decreases the velocity sensitivity. that's why I kept the tape and felt on the thinner side, have to use your own judgement there. I am a piano player, so I tend to hit a little harder but the benefit of preventing keys from breaking over time was worth it to me at least. If you are a more delicate player, i wouldn't think this mod is necessary. i did it because the hard key clunk at the bottom of thre key travel was pretty uncomfortable to me. The springy feel will of course be the same, if you do it right. As far as the grease, its a white type, very slick and believe me, there's still plenty of it in there!

Just completed a minor mod to the XW-P1. This is a long post I'm taking a risk here. If you break your instrument I will have to go to another user group, so be careful! Took about 3 hours and a little finesse. If anyone has noticed how hard the keys bottom out on the XW-not much worse than many other spring-loaded budget and not so budget instruments-I managed to install some piano felt strips underneath the key contact points that hit bottom. I will detail this procedure here, you must be patient, careful and have a decent phillips screwdriver as well as some piano felt and double-sided sticky tape. I used a very thin type of tape I get at dollar stores. I buy the felt by the square yard in the crafts section of the nearest W*****t (not an endorsement) Here I go........and remember this will I'm sure void your warranty and possibly crack the space/time continuum. 1) place keyboard upside down on soft surface-foam padding, even a mattress or old pillows will do. Keep away from small rodents and people with large, heavy things. 2) Take all screws out from underneath except the smaller ones holding small plastic panels directly under keyboard-these do nothing but expose the felt strip that acts as padding for the key's return on the upswing, this is not the point of impact I am addressing. Main screws are all same size and will almost completely dismantle the XW, with one exception see further on. Keep XW upside down until you.... 3) Carefully turn it right side up while holding center panel in place, as the center section contains the brains of the XW and will fall out if you lift the keyboard without keeping it in place once all screws are removed. All the connecting cables are based here and you could damage circuits or connectors, be careful 4) Once keyboard is face up, take center section up and out-carefully as there will be many attached ribbon cables-I simply rested this further back, now you will see the entire top of the keybed. You're almost there. 5) Now look for 4 screws holding left and right upper sections onto the main chassis (2 screws each side). These must be removed to get at the rest of the keyboard and are all that's left securing these 2 sections. The ipad dock is one piece and can be taken out completely and set aside. The control section is also one piece and can also be set aside-very nifty as you will be able to put everything back very easily. 6) Here is the trickiest part-taking the keys out to put the felt underneath. If I didn't describe it, its easy to figure out yourself but here it is.... Each octave consists of three pieces-the black keys which will stay put and two sections of white keys which are intertwined or staggered together. these can be removed by unscrewing 4 small screws at the top of the keys as you face the keyboard forward (for each octave, you will have to do this 4 more times). Careful, as there is am amazing amount of some kind of grease all over the key slots which I promptly slobbered all over everything before I even noticed. One key assembly rests on top of the other and both nest in between the black keys, you can't put these back wrong unless you use a sledgehammer, which shoudn't be anywhere near you, in case you are tempted. There are small nubs under the white keys-nudge the key assemblies out by ...gently bringing down, forward and up-if you are doing it right it will slide out easily-if you force, you will break the fragile nub underneath the key which is why you may have trouble at first. Each octave is exactly the same. Once you do one, the rest will be easy. 7) Now you see why the keys hit hard-there is only a thin white strip of felt where the key bottom hits-it isn't an aftertouch strip, the XW doesn't have aftertouch. Keys are velocity sensitive, but this is controlled by the gray rubber bumpers you will also see forward of the strip in question-don't touch these at all. 8) Last step-I cut thin felt strips (you may want to make one long strip, I did it in sections as it was a little easier to position under the keys) and matching double-sided foam stick tape-again, I used a thin type-if the foam is too thick, the key action will feel too "short"-this will defeat the purpose as I wanted to try to retain as much of the key action as I could. As it is, there will not be quite as much depth to the key throw, but it still feels better when hitting keys hard IMO. Line up your tape on top of the existing felt, keep it the same width for clearance. I used tweezers to help position these.. Also of course make sure the felt is at least as wide or slightly wider than your tape-keys will stick if not done right. 9) Done, put everything back together (unless you like it like this, it is always interesting to me to dissect these instruments but it will be harder to carry around) slap yourself on the back or whatever appropriate part of your anatomy you feel justified after you put it back together and it works. Otherwise slap somebody else for lousing up your work..joke don't really do this. After rolllcking through some mashed chord progressions, a few major/minor demented scales and arpeggios and trying some demonic pedalpoints it seems fine on my XW, and IMO is an improvement. I am a little hammer-handed so I can only imagine that these keys will not hold up too well over time with the small amount of padding underneath-I think this might help. Heck, Lizst supposedly broke strings on the grand pianos he played so hard (I've heard, wasn't there) so there you go. Now if only I could put in a new chip with a massive new sound rom and a new mini-Leslie speaker (built-in w/ portable speakers coming out the sides, back and bottom) and maybe built-in 20 GB sample memory, for 500 bucks. Ha-ha! Thanks for paying attention and good luck.

Just another important point re sequencer that another user clarified for me-when recording drum tracks, each track is monophonic but you can input several different percussion sounds on the same track, just not on the same beat, seems simple but wasn't for me. Each step in each track of the sequencer can have a totally different sound, but if you want to layer 16 bass drum beats on top of 16 snare beats it must be done with seperate tracks. Again, seems like a simple concept, but..........not for me!

Question to Patrick-regarding sliders controlling effects-I'm wondering if these changes can be recorded with the sequencer (hex mode works in track 1 of the sequencer) or even in the phrase recorder (I don't have the XW in front of me and don't recall if hex mode can be used to record phrases). I know control changes can be recorded in the sequencer using separate tracks, but would be much easier to be able to do this live directly in hex mode.

Phew-I agree, hadn't noticed yet. I seem to recall in my old Sequential Circuits Pro-One (yeah I am that old I had a new one) and i could be wrong (my human memory must be RAM not ROM as I lose its contents unless its constantly refreshed) it had a switch for high or low note priority with legato-maybe not exactly what you are talking about but close. It was monophonic, dual oscillator but I could get the low or high note to trigger on release depending on the switch (I think I'll have to look this up). Certainly not what one would expect, but then other keyboards allow for scale reversing, different tunings including micro, just, Werkmeister and other ways to screw with your brain, as I said in another post the technology is so far beyond our ability to use it all (IMO) the challenge I guess is to try to retain some of the traditional ways of playing with interfaces that often only a software engineer could like. I just realized in the XW-P1 appendix it lists over 2000 basic sounds, PCM and otherwise, my goodness i thought my Wurlitzer tine piano was pretty cool back when, at least it played chords and was velocity sensitive. I remember not fondly writing one of my first computer programs that took an hour in binary code which generated a crude dot-matrix picture of a dog, barely recognizable. Sort of like eating soup with a knife. Thank god the XW is a little more approachable!