Jokeyman123

Which Privia pedal, which Privia? sounds like you need to get a new rabbit. Maybe a stuffed one would be better around your keyboards, less possible damage-unless you stuff it into the keys.

I agree with Brad-to get any idea as to what is wrong, need to know if this sound is the same through the speakers. i can tell you from experience, many of these headphone adapters-from the smaller 1/8" to 1/4" stereo adapters give me problems-seem to not make very good stereo contact unless I monkey around with them (see my avatar for my tech support team). But seriously, a balky stereo adapter can do odd things to the sound-you can lose the stereo effect-and will sound like a thinner monophonic piano as it blends both stereo sides to one out of phase mono signal-losing all stereo imaging, or even only transitioning to one side of the piano samples, but still will sound through both left and right headphone earcups which can make the piano sound-awful. Now if it is in the speakers too-a different problem. There is a separate amplifier board in these I believe if Casio is consistent with their amplifier boards, which can go bad and can be replaced by Casio for at least several Privias. I think they still will have these parts, I've had repair done by them out of the Dover, NJ facility, very good if you need that. As this seems to be a problem getting worse over time, I would suspect a deteriorating component somewhere-usually but not always leaky or dried out capacitors, if it not the headphone adapter. I had the occasion not too long ago-a sustain pedal did not work. since my others did, and this was brand new and supposedly compatible-drove me crazy until i noticed-the end plug was not quite the same shape as my others. This one was ever so slightly shorter in the shaft's dimensions, thus the critical end connector was not contacting inside-it wasn't going in far enough! I trimmed about 1/16" of an inch around the rubber boot where the grounding sleeve was fastened to the rubber Read these posts-might help-or might make it more confusing but several of us have done some brainstoming on issues similar to yours. Apparently these Casios use the same amplifier chip for the speaker outputs and headphones (we thought so anyway) although the amp board is a little more complicated than just a one-chip design. It could be as simple as poor electrical conduction through even one cable, but this would require internal checking and disassembly-which for a an 870-unless you are experienced at keyboard repair and if it is under warranty-i would contact Casio repair.

Correct me if I'm wrong-but there is a damper pedal connection-I use it all the time. and the other jack can be assigned a huge variety of parameters, the same as the 3 control knobs. CV-you mean control voltage-as in analog synths used for various functions-pitch, timing sync/trigger and which many newer analog/digital controllers have-I have a Keystep mini controller with this, my Behringer Poly D also has a CV connection as did my old Pro-One Sequential which I used way back. I know of nothing equivalent to the PX-560 such as another workstation/88 key controller/digital piano that has one. There may be midi adapters that create a CV function through midi, I've never looked. Look for a keyboard meant to be incorporated into a modular system, this seems to be the throwback many musicians seem to be interested in.

Your link was removed, we aren't allowed to directly link to a commercial seller. Could you describe which model speaker you used for this? and it was an exact fit, you did not need to alter any of the screwpoints? I have had my 560 almost completely disassembled more than once, not sure I'd want to remove the tweeters. The empty tweeter spaces might bring out the bass from your new speakers-acting as bass ducts (maybe). Much depends upon how the rear-mount speakers are positioned-if i place the 560 close against a hard wall or other surface, the reflected sound is better for near-field playing, but I usually use a powered system for the 560-2 3 way 10" speakers with horns and bass ducts plus a compact 200W stereo powered mixer with eq, at home or out. For recording, I don't rely on the internal speakers, I use this system or good cans, old AKG's with a headphone amp-these are the old 600 Ohm German ones-and a bunch of other Chinese Superlux/Samsons for comparison.

I have just tried this experiment. Loaded a midi file-an arrangement with 5 midi tracks into a DAW, and called up one of my arrangements on my Casio workstation. Set the tempo manually for each-hit play on DAW and keyboard exactly together-stayed in perfect sync for over 3 minutes. Tried with a few different arrangements/styles-stayed in sync manually. So if you did what Brad suggests, there should be no midi "slop" if you add tracks to your DAW sequence after you record the Casio into it. Whatever tempo you use record your Casio into the DAW, should stay in sysnc with whatever tracks are already in the DAW. Looks like the clocks can be synced manually. Nice. I used a shuffle beat, a jazz "swing" beat and straight 8 rock beat-especially listening to the snare backbeats, and the groove was perfectly in sync. Better than some bands I've played in...🤪

Butting in-I posted here awhile back-with 1-2 Casios that do not have midi sync-for example my PX-560, I did an experiment. I did what you are thinking but with all hardware midi devices. I attempted to manually synchronize several of my midi devices manually without using any midi sync at all, including some older midi equipment-to test how accurate the internal clocks were. I used an old Roland PMA-5, a Yamaha QY-100 and the PX-560 and XW-P1-I had 4 things going at once-and to my surprise, these all held together and for more than a minute or two. I did not test beyond around 5 minutes and did not measure to a very fine degree how accurate the sync was, but by ear it sounded spot on which I was certain would not happen. I did not try this with a computer DAW so might not work as well, but it might. All of these but the 560 have midi clock control, so their internal timing might be understandable even without using a midi connection-but seeing how accurate the PX560 was in relation to all this other rather ancient equipment-especially since as the 560 also has "auto-arranger" functions, even those worked in perfect sync! It was pretty wild listening to 3-4 different arpeggios, patterns all in audible sync, without a midi cable between any of them. Guess this is a tribute to how accurate the timing clocks are with all this equipment. The only thing i did not try was manually syncing to a DAW-not sure how accurate a computer's internal clock would be in relation to hardware instruments specifically designed to have tight timing, but might work. If your computer is reasonably fast, and the CT-6500 has as good internal timing as these other Casios, it might work. Woyuld be a good experiment to try, certainly would open up some creative possibilities. I think I'll try it right now! I have an i5 and i7 CPU laptops running all kinds of DAW's. I'll post back with results. Another problem, which I found easier with hardware controls-is STARTING 2-3-4 separate parts in sync. I'm not sure any DAW software will respond as quickly to a manual "kickstart" as one would by hitting an electronic switch! But if you're quick enough to play passages on a keyboard......

Brad is correct about bluetooth connectivity-there is a noticeable delay in sound transmission using bluetooth for playing live, you won't like it at all! I purchased up a pair of Insignia powered monitors-that have either bluetooth connectivity-or-the way I use these with my keyboards-RCA stereo line inputs. These also have a volume, treble and bass controls built into the system. I created a portable bracket system to position these at close to ear level-a bit lower which helps the bass response. for piano sounds in particular, a good set of stereo powered monitors do make for a more realistic playing experience IMO. You might even opt for 3-way systems-2 bookshelf size speakers and a separate sub-woofer-these subwoofers are usually not too large unlike those that might be part of a large stereo speaker system. I would stick with name brands, such as Mackie, Presonus, JBL (expensive but probably the best) M-audio and Yamaha. I used a pair of Yamaha 8" for awhile and the sound was impressive especially for bass but then of course the larger the speaker the better the bass generally speaking. Rockville also makes some nice looking systems. You can spend several hundred dollars for a 2-speaker system but I don't think that's necessary as the improvement in sound quality does not always match the price! My Insignias were less than 100 dollars US and sound like a much larger speaker system and are built very solidly. I just found a pair of my Insignias on e**** (you know who you are!) for 89.00. I use these all the time with several different digital pianos including the PX-560 and adding these does make a big difference in producing a more realistic piano and other sounds playing experience. I would not recommend smaller computer style stereo speaker systems, as these are generally pretty limited in frequency response-meaning poor bass and not much better mid-range, important for acoustic piano sound reproduction. Hope this helps.

Brad, DKD... My suspicion is the volume pot as the first offender. If it has been used frequently-depending on how its soldered to its IC board-wouldn't take much to crack a solder joint and create a full "open" or on position. I don't have a schematic-but if this is a monophonic volume pot-there would be only 3 terminals-and if the low resistance connection fails, this is what will happen-constant full volume-as if you directly connected this circuit without a volume pot. Since you can get full volume, this would indicate the internal amp circuitry is fine. I recall my PX350 had a rather small and probably delicate volume pot which never failed on mine, but it is possible. A constant downward force-such as will happen when exercising the volume knob-could have caused a break in the solder connection inside. That is my best guess from a distance-and volume pots do fail-I just had to do an alesis Ion volume pot replacement which manifested itself by cutting out one of the stereo channels, and bringing the volume to full even when turned 10-20 degrees-this had 5 pins as it was a stereo pot and was pretty difficult to replace. You could try shooting some plastic-safe tuner cleaner in there, and flexing the volume pot gently to hear what might happen. if it is a cracked solder point, tuner cleaner won't help. If there are worn traces internally to the volume pot causing this-which is also possible, tuner cleaner might solve the problem, at least temporarily.

Are you using battery power, or AC adapter, or have you tried both? Always suspect your power supply first. If there are older dead or marginal batteries in it, take them out. Very odd malfunction as if it were a malfunctioning mainboard, it would consistently have a problem. These aren't that old, the capacitors should still be OK which can often cause a headache like this. It could even be a slightly bad ribbon connection somewhere althugh from my disassemblies, things inside are pretty tight and secure would take alot to disconnect something internally. Go to page E-71 in the manual to re-initialize the XW-I think this will delete any user programs, hex layers or any other saved settings so you might want to back you anything you want to save to the SD card-see page E-73 for those instructions.

I have been trying out Arturia's CZ emulator for windows or Mac-but it is too expensive IMO to go beyond demo mode -149.00 for a single virtual synth emulator but it is pretty comprehensive-goes beyond the functions of all the CZ's, purists might not be happy. And i do not see many of the classic CZ sounds i remember from my original CZ's built into this one-only new edits contributed by users of the Arturia virtual synth. It does have 8 stage envelopes which I have been experimenting with. I also am demoing the other virtual CZ by oli larkin. I haven't tried editing with this one yet to see if i can duplicate some of the most complex sounds I originally had going on the The CZ-3000 and CZ-1. and yes, the CZ-1 only was capable of 8 key polyphony, the CZ-101 only 4 live playing with the keys.

Any of the older specific Casio parts will be difficult to find, and casio does not provide parts (usually). Look for Casio parts in eBay, there are websites that sell Casio parts taken from other Casios that no longer worked, or from "old stock" parts. Google Casio keyboard parts. I can name a few-Casio Junkyard is one, Pacparts is another. Syntaur, Keyboard Kountry, Instrumental Music, there are others but unless you can specifically diagnose the problem, looking for parts won't help. There are certain CZ parts that fail more often than others, if you do some Google or other search engines, you may find references to these, even right here. I forgot the CZ-230s has one speaker, but I don't think this would cause it to shut down-unless the speaker itself has a short circuit. If you can get any sound out of the speaker, it is probably good but still could have an intermittent short circuit. Look for physical signs of bad caps-material that might have "oozed" out of the cap, or a swollen cap. Unless you have a capacitor tester-and are willing to remove and test each cap-only need to desolder or cut one lead, it will be hard to detect if a capacitor is good or not. And in my experience, ceramic caps seldom go bad, only the electrolytics deteriorate over time. Usually, an amp chip is pretty "sturdy" and won't destroy itself-unless other components connected to it went bad. You can test resistors in circuit, and you can also check voltages-but you have to have a schematic to trace voltage points, or best guesses. At least you could see what components are getting voltage, and if there is a short somewhere-where no voltage is getting through. Always check power supply parts first, check the voltages at the 'wall wart" adapters to make sure these are giving enough voltage. and check the solder points for the adapter jacks-even a microscopic crack in a solder joint there can cause these types of problems-it allows enough voltage to partially power up some things, but if there is a crack in the traces of the adapter jack point, it might not be supplying enough voltage-simply resoldering that jack inside would fix that. and these often crack and fail in older Casios and others.

I suspect the Topping D10. Are you using the balanced or unbalanced version of the D10? If it is the balanced (TRS-3 conductor) version into the GP-510, this can cause a mismatch in signals. If you are using the version with RCA outs, should not be a mismatch but 20Ohms-very efficient-may be too efficient for the GP line input. 20 Ohms means it is very sensitive-presents no resistance to whatever is connected to it, so the D10 might be overdriving the line input of the GP-510- it is outputting at 384Khz and has a dynamic range of 125DB which is very "hot". This is excellent as an audiophile spec, but it might be too much for the GP-510 line input and could be causing excessive harmonic overtones, at least for the GP-510. A high-spec audio amp/preamp could handle that dynamic range, but the D10 might be overdriving the GP-510 line input. I know this all might sound like gibberish-but it isn't! If you have a different USB to audio interface, try it. I'm also always a little wary of USB in a system like this-where you are outputting GP-510 midi data into a computer-then using the same USB connection to connect a line-in audio signal. The D10 interface may or may not eliminate any feedback loops from the USB configuration you are using, but.....make sure your USB connections are tightly connected and should be shielded with good heavy duty cables if you can. I assume by Raspi you are using some kind of Raspberry Pi midi interface? 2 USB midi interfaces in the same signal chain, also could present distortion, but my best guess is the D10 overdriving the GP-510. It may be creating or amplifying additional harmonics the GP-510 is not designed to deal with.

Here is an english description of this keyboard, created by "TableHooters" who is a very knowledgeable member of this casio group, and he might be able to help you better than I can. http://weltenschule.de/TableHooters/Casio_MT-36.html My best guess without a schematic diagram-is either the main IC (if there is one) that generates the sounds is malfunctioning-or if there is a separate "scanning" IC (again i don't know if this keyboard has one, but many keyboards do) that could be the source of the problem. If you don't know what this type of chip is, it continually scans the entire assortment of keys in sequence very rapidly, usually is physically close to the key assembly or even part of the key assembly-and will detect whenever you press a key or keys, and sends a note on message to the main IC. So if this chip is not working-it might be causing all the notes to power on at once. These scanning chips are usually driven by a crystal oscillator or some other chip that sends a constant clock pulse to the scanning chip and main IC. If there is one of those, that could be the other source of the problem. I tried finding a schematic for this one, but no luck so far.

Hmmm....2 separate problems. With the DM100, sounds like something with the power-it needs more power to drive the speakers at a louder volume, so I would check you power supply and other components that are directly connected inside to the power supply-usually capacitors dry out over time, this is the first place I always check. Or, it could be that the amplifier chip is failing, I think these have a "dedicated" amplifier chip to drive the speakers. I don't have a schematic so can't be sure. For the CZ-230s, I am not understanding quite what is wrong from your description, since the CZ only connects to outboard speakers or headphones. can you describe the CZ problem again-do you mean it also turns off when the volume is turned up? This is odd since it does not have a power amplifier internally-the circuit that drives the headphones would be very low power, so something else might be wrong, and if you are using external speakers-these might be drawing enough power to cause the CZ to power down, but headphones would not since these draw alot less power-current and voltage-so again it could be your power supply. Or-a short circuit connected to the volume slider or the volume slider itself might be causing the CZ to shut down. I would also check the capacitors in this one too, since these are old enough that bad caps could be limiting the amount of power going through all the circuitry, and this could shut it down too. if this is difficult to understand in English, let me know I'll use Google translate for your language which might help.

From a distance-my guess is that somehow 2 of the hammers inside might be jammed together-these are steel arms that pivot and are rather narrow next to each other inside. Especially since one key is jammed, and the other key is sitting lower, sounds like this might be what happened. Normally it shouldn't but it is possible. Short of taking the CGP apart, which you might need to do-and if under warranty you void the warranty doing that, try jostling it around as you might if you were carrying it around in a carry case. Turn it upside down, gently hit the bottom, stand it on end and do the same, on each end. Might sound silly, but it might work. If its mounted on its stand, you will have to take it off of course, but if this fixes it its worth the trouble. You cannot access the internal hammers from above in between the keys-even if the hammers are stuck together inside, there still will not be enough clearance to move these back in place, if that is the problem. And if the CGP is constructed like my PX-560 or 350, to get to the key assembly underneath-will take alot of disassembly to get to the hammers. There is one more step you can take before you do that. Take off the small plastic covers underneath the case (I think the CGP is the same as mine in this respect-many of the PX's are constructed like this and the screws inside these panels are the ones that need to be removed to take the top case off to get inside-among other things! But try this next step first-These are little squares held in place with small screws. if you take these off, you can see the fulcrum arms inside. You might be able to see what is going on inside if you take off these covers in the area of the keys that are stuck. if you get lucky, you will see if the arms are moving freely or not-if these are jammed together, you will be able to see this with a flashlight. From there you might be able to move the arms-this is assuming this is the problem, and that it isn't something more difficult such as a broken key or fulcrum underneath. These are pretty strong inside, so it would take some major shock to break anything. If this doesn't solve the problem-only factory repair or someone pretty experienced with disassembling keyboards should take it apart. There are videos on the web showing some of the disassembly procedures for some keyboards if you want to give yourself an education about it, although I have never checked to see if the CGP-700 has anything to study. And it has to be done carefully or you will damage hard to replace ribbon cables and other components inside if you don't know your way around these keyboards. the internal speakers make disassembly even more tricky as you...leave it at that for now. Good luck and post back if you care to share your results, good or bad.