Jokeyman123

PX560 back home, works perfectly-I had forgotten how bright, clear and quick the touchscreen is compared to others I have. Impressed-one of the gentlemen working there was even so considerate as to carry it out to my truck!  Most important-sound system works perfectly again, looks like it was handled with great care-no easy task as I've had this opened myself, must have been challenging to work around my mods. I am almost embarrassed to say how inexpensive this repair was not being under warranty-for everything-and it needed a new mainboard-was under 100 US dollars. I have never had a better repair price for anything, I feel like gifting casio a free cake or something🤑 I can imagine with the price of parts alone, this was a gift, a real tribute to Casio. I have a potential new adult piano student-guess what I am going to recommend if he needs a digital piano? Not the first time I obtained a Privia for someone and never regretted it-my brother has one and old PX-110 and I play it when I visit-and it plays and sounds wonderful hard to believe its a generation past. And another of my adult students has a PX-130 and wants a newer Casio-he wants my 560 actually, but he'll have to get his own ha-ha-ha!!  Keep up the good work Casio. And thanks.
 
If anybody complains about Casio service-I am taking you off my "friends" list
 
I just noticed-I had smacked and broken a corner of the endcap where the headphone jack resides, and also broke the headphone jacks-I tried repairing it, got one jack only to work and was going to replace it myself and the only part I could find was on e*** for 50.00 which I was going to go for. Imagine my surprise-I got this home, plugged in my headset and - Casio service had replaced the entire headphone jack assembly and a new endcap-and did not charge me. if that isn't super service, I don't know what is.  Double thanks!
                                                                                                                         
 
 

If you are willing to go with a Chinese branded case-I think it must be-I found this on Amazon. You will have to do a search as I can't paste a direct link to something for sale understandably but there are plenty of these posted there. These 2 pics I think will tell you what you need to know. Looks pretty good to me, the dimensions look right. Every other 88-key case I've found is much deeper front to back, this is only 13.8" so should be a better fit than most of the others which are usually 18-20" deep or more front to back, too much play for the slimline Casio. I use a Roadrunner 88-key case that is roughly these dimensions-but I can't find that one anywhere anymore either as it was a slimline and the current Roadrunners are way too deep for the Casio. Might even grab one of these myself-looks even better than my Roadrunner, and is about half the price I paid...oh well progress, Chinese style.
 
Added....after looking a little more closely at some of the review pictures-this photo makes it look alot more substantial than it really is. My Roadrunner case has thicker padding than this, at least from what I can see online. still might be OK for at least light travelling, but I wouldn't count on this to provide much protection from accidents.
 
 

What I use is the Takstar WMP-200 wireless (not bluetooth) transmitter/receiver system, looks like only around 30-40 US dollars for the system. The transmitter uses a frequency range in the high 700MHz range-not the same frequency as bluetooth-same as some wireless mikes and headsets-which also do not have any audio lag. The Takstar is the same technology. the transmitter also needs a "wall-wart" power supply which comes with it although I use a portable cellphone 12V power pack. The receiver runs off 2 AA batteries, has switchable frequency channels. NO AUDIO LAG.
 
A little more complicated to set up-the transmitter has 1 1/4" stereo jack-you'd have to use the right audio adapter cable from your Casio to the Takstar-I use the keyboard stereo headphone jack out to the Takstar. Might have to adjust the volume on the Casio a bit.
 
The Takstar receiver has a mini stereo headphone output jack 1/8"-I use this system to plug in my best headsets-so becomes a wireless headphone setup-works all over the house, not sure what the range is but it easily beats bluetooth. It has a volume control and channel switch right inside the panel door. NO LAG!
 
In your situation-instead of plugging headphones into the receiver's output jack, with the right audio cable-easy-its a 1/8" stereo plug out to a 2-connector RCA directly to a stereo amp input or PA head with 1/4" plugs on the end instead of RCA-or with a different audio cable you could adapt this receiver to input to something else. I've had it working into my stereo line inputs into a Zoom multi-track digital recorder which uses two 1/4" monophonic jacks-or with a different audio adapter-right into a guitar amp which won't sound terribly good but will work. OR...one of the cheap and cheerful newer little Chinese stereo amps that use RCA stereo inputs which I connect to a pair of (not Bluetooth but wired) bookshelf speakers. You will need to amplify that stereo headphone output though, but it is wireless stereo.
 
Yes you will need to become better acquainted with the joys of stereo and mono adapters and adapter cables-but once you get this setup-just about anything that has an audio out will go into the Takstar transmitter (I use it for wireless TV audio even though I have bluetooth sets-bluetooth only goes out a few feet, i can walk outside and still be hearing whatever is connected to the other end with the Takstar. So for me at least-far superior to messing with bluetooth/syncing/dropped signals etc. It has its uses but for live lag-free sound/music and a stronger signal, I like this Takstar setup. There may be similar non-bluetooth systems like this, but this is one of the simplest I've found, and IT WORKS!

Not going to happen. I don't quite understand what you are describing as a USB hub-are you talking about an outboard USB hub connected to your computer? If so it is getting its power from your computer's USB connection which will be woefully inadequate to power even some USB devices designed for computers. These hubs typically will not provide 2.4 amps to each port-the voltage is divided among the ports, which is why many have trouble getting USB devices working connected to a USB hub. every Casio I've owned needed at least 1 amp minimum and some are spec'd at 2. I know of no USB hub that generates its own power-only if plugged into its own power supply-it is still "drawing" power rather than generating it if it is a passive USB hub-distributing 5v from the computer USB port.
 
All Casios currently need at least 9V DC/12V DC and some even need 15/24V DC for the larger pianos. Others will know better re the oldest smaller Casios-such as the SK-1's, CTS's, CTK's etc. but I've never run across a Casio that can run from less than 9V DC.  I power a few of my Casios with the new 9v/12V DC power packs, but need to make a modified connector if the Casio needs 9V DC tip negative-and I am not running my Casios under warranty as any damage that happens is my responsibility if I use anything other than a Casio recommended supply. the PX5S runs from AA batteries-8 t be precise for 12V DC-but I have never heard of anyone powering theirs by using the USB port, the circuitry is not designed to work that way. I would not plug anything into the USB port that was not designed for it-you can very easily fry that circuit and no longer have a usable USB connection to your computer.

If the widi needs 5V, looks like you might get a 5V output off pin 4, but depends upon the CZ-what it is supplying to the midi circuit, might be less than 5V if any electronics have deteriorated and are below spec. Best way is to stick a multimeter probe in the DIN socket on pin 4 and check the voltage out yourself. There might also be an issue with the milliamps the widi needs and what the CZ is putting out. You might have enough voltage, but not enough mA. I would the think the widi doesn't need much but as a transmitter, it might and again if the CZ is still up to specs, components can deteriorate over time and change specs. If the CZ followed the original midi spec it should work, the specs haven't changed much in the decades since the specs were created. Hopefully someone else here has one of these up and running with a CZ?
 
https://www.midi.org/specifications-old/item/midi-din-electrical-specification

Programs 40 through 46 will give you all the clavinet tones in the PX560, pretty accurate too IMO. Variations are using slightly different DSP settings to slightly change the tone qualities, including the wah-wah clavis which must be using a filter with an LFO.

I don't have my PX350 anymore-but this can be done. Have to use the function button, and the arrow left-right buttons to select the function for changing the volume of the auto-accompaniment, it is listed under "other" functions. It is described on page 45-46 of the manual. Once you have selected auto-accompaniment under the functions settings, use the up/down arrows to change the relative level of the accompaniment while not changing the entire keyboard's volume. A little fussy as to how this is done-you will have to experiment to determine how much you need to change the accompaniment relative to your overall volume setting since the master volume is only controlled by the volume knob.

I am very familiar with the little triangle indicating that Windows did not find a driver installed within its operating system for this specific device, or another driver is interfering with the proper one installing. Which version of Windows are you using?  Your screenshot looks like it could Windows XP or 7, or even Vista. With certain versions of Windows-you needed to upgrade to service pack III for example in Windows XP, otherwise there were no USB drivers included, as seemingly useless as that may seem. it was a deficiency in Windows, well known and documented by many musicians having trouble connecting to Windows. Windows 10 I understand is not always recognizing certain midi devices as well. Have you connected other USB midi devices on this same computer?
 
i think Brad will need to tell you how to proceed. You may also have certain Windows "updates" on on the one machine and not on the other-certain Windows security patches can interfere with USB devices installing correctly. Hopefully it is something simpler.

There is a process for creating custom rhythms for loading into the Casio PX560-but you must use a software midi editor to create your own midi file first-consisting of whatever rhythm you want to create-then after you save it as a midi file-an smf saved as a .mid file-convert it to a .ckf file which, among other things, is a file label for a rhythm that was a standard user rhythm in older Casio arrangers. Although the PX560 uses and saves user rhythms as .ac7 files, it can load and play .ckf rhythm files. As Brad has posted-look in the PX560 user file downloads, you will find quite a bit of these files you can load and play-several of which are mine I custom-created, saved as .ckf files and use to practice and play mostly for my own use. Some are pretty complex since there are literally dozens of Casio .ckf rhythms to load in the PX560 already in that downloads section, I tried to extend the concept by creating fairly "busy" complex rhythms in styles you may not be interested in, and to show what can be done.
 
Without getting into a detailed explanation as to how to create your own custom rhythms, it is actually pretty easy once you get the "hang" of it. There are a huge number of posts here already detailing how to do this-look up posts from Chandler, myself, Brad, "T" and a few other musicians here who have  posted their work over quite a bit of time. I basically use the Casio IDES 4.0 software which was designed for older Casios-and has a very useful midi to ckf file converter, with settings to change instruments, tempo and intros, endings, variations. Also can be used for auditioning ,ckf rhythms on your computer before you load these into the 560.
 
There is a procedure for creating "marks" in software with a midi file, and each set of "marks" in the file creates exactly which measures you will use for each part-intro, ending, main and variations plus fill sections. Or you can let the .ckf converter do that for you. Chandler has a post here which summarizes and describes in detail exactly how to do all this. it sounds more complex than it is, but repeating myself-once you master the few basic steps you need to, it becomes rather easy to create exactly the kind of accompaniment you want-and the PX560 can handle some pretty complex parts, or as simple as you need. 256 voices covers alot of ground. I have been able to play and record a very complex background rhythm using the song/midi recorder in the 560, adding parts I play as additional "live" tracks, and then improvise over that-without any voices dropping out-pretty amazing!

Not to sound discouraging, but this is a weird one. Sounds like  it might be a software "glitch" but odd that it would affect only the one tone. Since all the variations of the acoustic piano are coming from the same set of samples (I think) it is odd that only the classical piano setting would do this. Does this happen when you access this tone through a pre-recorded song? It is possible it has something to do with the DSP setting stored with this one tone, since variations in the DSP settings (filters, brightness, reverb etc.) vary from tone to tone and are stored with that unique tone. Try playing the piano through a midi connection if you have another midi keyboard, or through a software sequencer if possible. I don't see a procedure for restting the PX-130 in the manual but this sometimes clears these types of problems if there is a way to do that.  And I agree, Mike Martin is the go-to man on this type of problem.  He is very knowledgeable and is "Casio support"!