Jokeyman123

If you search here for my posts about opening the PX560-you will see exactly what to do. You need to remove screws in order to take the top control panel off, the key assembly is mounted to the underside of the plastic body. You cannot move or remove the key assembly simply by removing screws from the bottom. You will also need to open the 2 separate speaker compartment units and the center control panel, with screws on either side underneath the endcaps which release the speaker covers. I will try to find my posts about this here-was awhile ago. OK-here's my detailed description, might help you. The difficulty is that in order to reposition this raised key, you probably (as I recall) will have to lift the front of the key assembly as the key must be shifted to get back into position, I've had to do this with a PX and a CDP weighted action Casio. You might get lucky simply by pushing the key back in-but don't force it. Otherwise-in order to reposition a key, the top panels hold the key assembly partially in place, so simply removing screws underneath will not be enough to get at that key. And the most difficult screws to remove-to get the top panels and speakers off-are under the little black plastic covers under the keyboard-these are buried and are hard to reach-easy to lose inside the Casio if you drop one inside-I use "poster Putty" on my screwdrivers to stick the screwheads onto my screwdrivers so I can pull these out. If you lose one inside, it will be impossible to remove if it gets in the key mechanism. Even a magnetic screwdriver is tough to work with-because the metal fulcrums inside are magnetic-and will make it hard to work a magnetic screwdriver in there. I speak from experience... And don't do this if the Casio is under warranty. There is plenty you can damage inside if you are not fairly adept and experienced at electronics and mechanical repairs. I had to do this because I damaged (carelessly) the 3 control knobs but was able to repair this hard to get part. Now I have a spare 3 knob control board just in case my repair doesn't hold up, but it has so far. If this post doesn't help-this is a complete disassembly to repair the control knobs-let me know, I think I have other pictures about this in other posts. The good thing about knowing a complete disassembly, if you can't get a Casio or other tech to repair your 560-you will have complete access to anything that might go wrong-connecting cables, circuit boards, controls, speakers and even the entire mainboard if you ever need to do that. Parts availability is hit or miss, I don't think Casio sells parts directly to 'end-users", I haven't checked recently about this-but other online parts suppliers can have Casio repair and replacement parts if you need something as does eBay sometimes. Pacparts, Keyboard Kountry, Syntaur and others-just mentioning in case this key ends up being broken and needing replacement.

You're not wrong. Why I posted this knowing most repair facilities are almost non-existant or not capable of doing more than telling you to put new batteries in your propeller hat 😛 why I've had to do alot of my repairs, mods and maintenance myself. And having much equipment that uses dedicated IC chips, firmware etc. it is difficult to impossible to find anyone who has any idea how to troubleshoot and repair mainboards and other "proprietary" circuitry and even if one can, most manufacturers keycode lock their firmware and operating systems so even an advanced engineer cannot reverse-engineer code to restore it. Quite different from when I made my first analog oscillators and simple synths. For example-one of the premier tech companies on the East coast USA that was capable of repairing at the component level and specialized in musical equipment, went out of business during the pandemic. I am now trying to find someone through Youtube posts and user groups that are capable of for example-repairing an otherwise perfectly good Alesis QS8 with a defective mainboard, and 2 other partially working music workstation mainboards that are now impossible to replace as the manufacturers continue to hope you throw out your 3-4000 dollar dead music workstation/digital piano or RFI-resistant metal collander hat (🙃) and have to buy a new one, I am seeing more and more-individuals who are capable of flow-soldering/desoldering LSI chips, fabricating their own complex IC boards in their home workshops, something even a few years ago impossible for the layperson without advanced heat-controlled equipment. Another example of instrument sudden death syndrome. The "Beat Thang"-still in the wild, can be purchased dead or working-I have one of each out of morbid curiosity i couldn't resist the frustrating certainty that i would not be able to restore a dead one-and I haven't but here's why. 1) the developers completely abandoned the product, after huge hype that's bad enough but.... 2) I completely dis-assembled the dead one-researched the chips inside (samsung memory chips and an ARM CPU among other things) and discovered-there is a plug-in board, with the OS burned into it, which can probably be re-installed, i even found the Linux code for this-probably similar process to making a custom ROM for a smartphone but much to my surprise.... 3) Looks like there is a "Beat Thang" specific 14-pin male connector adjacent to the SD card slot-a working one can upgrade the OS with an SD card-if the Beat Thang boots up in the first place, which many of these don't. I suspect the original firmware and OS was installed using this connector-but like a dead smartphone, if you can't even boot it, how can you re-install the code????? And what was used originally to install the OS in this glorified bang-box-only her hairdresser knows for sure (old Clairol commercial, sorry I got distracted) 4) There isn't a single support person anywhere who has a clue as to how to restore these machines-i have probably taken it further than most-I have posts all over requesting info, how I managed to find someone who has the entire Linux OS set of commands, apparently the only other poor soul on the Internet who even bothered to keep his working and sells compatible samples for it- not one of the developers, who must all be hiding in a shoebox somewhere. Considering how many are out there completely dead, completely useless-and these were built very solidly, the working one is actually pretty good-sort of similar to the old Ensoniq ASR-X drum machine samplers. same heavy metal box construction too. So here i have found the ultimate definition of stupidity/incompetence in manufacturing, and that's the nicest way to put it. Why post all this here? Because I am fortunate in that Casio's Dover, NJ the US repair facility is 30 miles from my house. And as long as I still own a Casio, I am not moving!

You are most welcome, hope all is well with you and yours. Добро пожаловать, надеюсь, что все хорошо с вами и вашими.

I would factory reboot-sometimes the memory on these keyboards do not "clear' their contents if you have done alot of loading and saving files, rhythms, songs. Could be just a temporary memory "bug". It happens. Especially since your rhythms are not using much memory, although i do not know what the total internal memory capacity of a CTX is, and the CTX might be using part of this storage memory for other operations at least temprarily.

I just stumbled on this website, I am not sure some of these are authorized for Casios even though this website makes it seem like these are, might help some of you that can't get repairs anywhere else. I would always try to go to an official Casio repair center-directly to Casio if you can. And I always look for reviews about a particular business before i decide, not all repair techs or businesses can handle anything other than a specific brand of instrument unfortunately, and not all are created equal. I had dismal results with one repair service in NJ, who actually made my one keyboard worse, and literally never returned one to me at all. Short of a lawsuit, there was nothing i could do. I won't publicly disparage any business, but if you are concerned and in NJ, PM me and I will tell you who they were. I'd never use them again. https://casiosupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/6650397830041-Keyboard-and-Piano-Music-Repair-Service-Centers-Models-GP-AP-PX-WK-CGP-CDP-only-

Not sure why the damper pedal is not working properly-but make sure you have calibrated the EV-5 expression pedal. The damper pedal jack and expression pedal jack should work independently. Might want to look over the pedal assignments on page E-77 of your user manual. Although it reads a little confusingly, looks like you can assign the expression pedal jack to act as a damper pedal? Or that the damper pedal could be set to turn off/on the expression pedal function? I would power off the 560, connect both pedals while powered down, then let the 560 read both pedals plugged in. Not sure, but I don't think the 560 will properly "see" the pedal settings if plugged in while powered on-the damper pedal will unless you are holding ot down when powering on-but not sure about the expression pedal-probably not, even if you calibrated the expression pedal already. The EV-5 is one of the expression pedals that should work properly with the 560, but it does need to be calibrated according to the Roland website and page 75 in the PX-560 manual. I wouldn't factory reset until you check these settings for pedal calibration and pedal assignments. The settings for the 2 pedal jacks could be conflicting each other. An educated guess-the expression pedal's primary setting is usually designed to control the volume of the 560, or most other keyboards that have an expression pedal input-many don't, one of the nice features of the 560 compared to many other keyboards and modules. It's possible the PX-560 "saw" the expression pedal as completely to its top position-which would lower the volume, or completely silence it although moving the pedal should enable the volume to increase. But if you have not calibrated the expression pedal, there might be a software "foobar" where the 560 now is locked into reading as if the expression pedal is set to its highest pedal position (no sound volume). If nothing else works, factory reset will recall the default factory settings for the pedals, I would do that with no pedals plugged in first. Then, power down the 560, with power off plug in both pedals, then power up the 560-this will enable the 560 to see both pedals-and make sure the expression pedal is completely in it's "up" position and that you are not standing on the sustain pedal. What are you using for the sustain pedal? Many brands will work, as long as there is a switch for setting whether the sustain pedal is normally "open" or "closed". I use an M-Audio switchable sustain pedal but a Casio single pedal should be fine. if it is another brand, make sure it has this switch-some brands will work doing the opposite-if the sustain pedal is pushed down, sustain is switched off, raising it brings in the sustain effect. You might know all this already, but just trying to be thorough! Post how you do if you can, helps others here to see your results. Expression pedal assignments on many keyboards, modules and workstations can be pretty "deep" as you can use one of these pedals for a huge variety of functions, depending on the keyboard's and the pedal's capabilities, the Roland is a good one for the Cassio 560. I am not aware of any Casio branded expression pedals, although the Casio 3-pedal array designed for the PX560 gives you a few extra functions for the piano settings not available with a single sustain pedal but is not of course considered an expression pedal. Hope this helps!

I think Brad is onto something. I think you can set registrations to pre-defined dynamic levels for individual tones in the registration? I have to be in front of my 560 as i forget if this is so. I have studied the compression settings on my PX560-seems like it is a compressor/limiter combined. Are you trying to process for recording with the band or for live venues? Makes a difference. Pianos/ ep's in particular are extremely dynamic and might benefit most from limiting, although the PX560 manual is not too precise about settings that differentiate limiting from compression. Too much compression may do the opposite of what you want. And since the PX560 uses a compressor as a master out DSP-it might not solve the problem of keeping various tones relatively equal throughout a set or sets, unless again you are recording and need to have the gain automatically set to not go beyond a peak level. For live playing-I much prefer an expression or volume pedal (or both depending!) to control individual tone levels that might vary for each tone or group of tones I would need. And a good monitor speaker to hear my own levels. Recording-or going through the house's PA system-whole different problem. If you have a soundman, he may just have to ride the gain on his/her mixing board to keep you fairly balanced as you switch from one tone to another or you will have to do it yourself by monitoring your own levels.

So i guess this link-about booking to go to the NAMM event in July, is not accurate? I guess they just want to book people without giving them the right information. So much for depending upon the Internet for accurate information.

By the way-my avatar is Butch from the Little Rascals singing "Friends, Lovers No More". One of my favorite performances....he covered this famous tune quite well. We need more of this....

Hey, I started with a Mattel Synsonic drum pad and had alot of fun creating rhythms with that and my original Pro-One, before that step up, a Crumar "Roadrunner" piano that sounded like hitting an old boxspring mattress with a tennis racket.... Swinging completely the other way, and surprisingly unrewarding-just restored an older Korg M3 with its "Karma" hugely embellished built-in arrangements and "combis"-actually really just a monstrously complex auto-arranger function-leaves me bewildered, and wanting to go back to my Mattel Synsonics drum pads!!! Sadly, I can create monstrous complete movie soundtracks by pushing a button, I don't have to have a creative bone in my body-all the challenge of playing with sounds, rhythms etc. is gone. Even my cat can play complex arrangements if he hits the right pad or button....sigh. or I drop it on the floor and it starts itself. Such is progress. And I have a full sampled set of Casio soundbanks in my Alesis Fusion (loads wav samples)-CZ's, SK's, even a complete set of "Speak and Spell" samples-again somehow it takes the fun out of it. And makes me wonder-where does one go from here. Maybe back to hitting rocks and logs with sticks, and playing wax paper and comb kazoos again. At least that takes a little skill.

Supposed to be a summer NAMM in Nashville July 16 starting date. https://www.booking-expo.com/events/summer-nammsnashville Maybe we'll see something new from Casio, although after the 5000/7000 series Privias and the CT-S keyboards, might be all we'll see for awhile. Alot more live performing venues happening now in the US, maybe more manufacturers will notice, more musicians with some money to spend and gigs to play that did not have that motivation during the pandemic? PX10S, MZ-X1000, XW-P2/G2, PX-5600, just a thought. Behringer is threatening a mini CZ-1 for 99.00 US but so far no go on that. Casio's new CZ-10,000 might be nice. With huge touchscreen, 32-track sequencer, individual track looping, DIN and USB connectivity with full DAW control and a dedicated software editor, sampling with gobs of memory for samples, all the CZ waveforms plus all the other Casio sampled piano, synth, VA synth and orchestral samples and a full tone-wheel organ with 16 (!) drawbars....and the newest weighted key assemblies, in a choice of 61, 76 or 88 keyspans. ......now that would be a killer Casio!

Are you comparing this to other weighted key controllers, or to non-weighted? and is this lack of response the same with all tones, or just the acoustic pianos which are using more data to get the various additional effects built-in, string resonance, damper control etc. There are 3 velocity/pressure sensors (tri-sensors) under each PX560 key, unlike most other controllers, weighted or non-weighted, this can make a difference-there is more data going out the midi data stream since your software must detect 3 sensors almost simultaneously. I never noticed this problem, but then I have a few weighted piano-action keys in addition to the 560, I'll check this again. The weighted keys in the 560 are definitely set up for a different response than for say my RH-II Korg action and the TP40's in the weighted Fusions, there is a slightly heavier key response in my 560. Check your velocity coming out of the PX-560 with Midiox, this will show you what your response curves are looking like, into your computer. And another question-what are you using for your midi interface to the computer-straight USB or midi DIN? Might make a difference. But I think Brad is right, if your DAW is not designed for high-resolution midi reception, this might affect the velocity response.

I am the unfortunate one who first discovered this fatal flaw in upgrading the firmware for the XW-P1, and had to bring my XW to Casio repair facility to have the mainboard replaced. Cyberyogi-the CPU in question on these mainboards (I am guessing this is the offending chip) is sealed under a glob of epoxy-I imagine it could be removed to reveal the CPU in use, but might harm the chip in the process, definitely not for a simple DIY'er. I could not determine if there was a separate firmware chip connected-I did not see anything that looked like a memory chip-again guessing the firmware may be "embedded" in this covered with goo CPU chip. Even with an eprom burner-Casio might have a lock code in firmware-to prevent reflashing this once the firmware is pooched unless it is done by Casio. Would be hard to find out unless one tried reflashing--or to even see if the complete firmware can be dumped from this chip. Certainly would be good to be able to. I am sure it will be next to impossible to get working mainboards for the XW's being close to 10 years old now, much less a replacement CPU.

Good idea Brad, I had forgotten about these. For large-scale designs and transfers-I would take a digital picture, transfer to computer and print it. This way, the size and shape could be edited, and with some work possibly duplicate exactly what one might need including an elaborate silk-screendesign such as on the orange graphics of the XW. Have you tried these decal sheets Brad? I saved an older inkjet printer although I usually use a color laserjet which I don't think can do this type of decal paper since it is heat-transfer with laser toner.

All I can offer, unless you know someone skilled in silk-screening new labels-is to use a label maker such as a P-touch or similar, and get label tape and make your own. I've had to do this with other equipment, and use the smallest width of label tape since so much of my equipment uses small fonts (lettering) which even label makers can't duplicate. I have this problem with a Korg M3-the print is so small, even the smallest label tape is too big to duplicate these labels, and as being right on the buttons, have worn out in several places-unfortunate cheap, not so smart design for such an expensive keyboard. There is a type of label tape that has black letters on a clear background which gives me the most "neutral" appearance. Short of duplicating the original with custom silk-screening, I know of no other way, since so many manufacturers make their labels as surface designed and can wear easily. The better designs use embedded labels-stamped or engraved into the surface which lasts longer, and are not directly printed on operating buttons or controls, like the Casio XW's.

I've posted a solution a few times here for an ideal wireless audio setup I use-which enables me to use any headset i want. And for any stereo audio output anywhere. You cannot use the USB Casio connector for audio at all, this is strictly for passing digital data, not audio signals. Takastar WPM-200. The transmitter take the output from your stereo headphone or line-out connections-it is stereo. The receiver uses AA batteries and has a stereo output jack for headphones-or any other low-impedance audio device. I can literally walk around the house with my pro headsets (big house) and the receiver picks up from the transmitter several rooms away-unlike bluetooth which is too short-range, a weak signal that will not propagate very far for audio. I've tried bluetooth audio receivers/transmitters-there is a lag in the wireless signal and these don't seem to transmit/receive as far as this "old school" wireless technology does. I have had this setup connected to not only earbuds, but to my better stereo headsets and it works well. (also good for silent TV or computer audio from across a room, keeps my marriage intact!) Not a completely pristine stereo signal as would be a direct wired connection-but sounds reasonably good in all frequencies, definitely "hi-fi" sound, not tinny or distorted. As long as you can match the correct audio cables, and its not expensive-all over eBay and other vendors for around 40-50 dollars US. I've used mine for a few years, still works fine. Although the transmitter needs its 12V wall-wart for power-so is not portable-I use a small 12V battery pack if I don't want to use AC and make the transmitter portable. The receiver can be put in your pocket,has a belt clip or wherever you want to fit it, smaller than a smartphone. The AA's in the receiver work a long time too. You might have to "monkey around" trying one of the 6 channel frequencies this can be set to to get the best audio with no interference, but around my very electrified house, most of the channels work OK. Might be what you want.

Can't be certain, but sometimes even "fumes" from certain chemicals can get into electronic components, traces, connectors and can contaminate electrical conductivity. Since it sat for awhile and then started working-this suggests (possibly) the contamination-if that is the cause-has dissipated enough to cause the 560 to work again. I can't imagine a wipe could do this, a spray bottle yes. All I can think of-aside from disassembly and troubleshooting yourself, or a Casio repair center if under warranty-try some "canned air" and blowing it into the key assembly-not into the speakers-you could damage the cones-or any other part of the panel-maybe around the pot controls, pressure switches-anywhere some contamination from the wipe might have gotten in. Even one malfunctioning push switch could cause problems with the operating system-if it is stuck open or closed-could interrupt the power-on sequences-not so as to completely disable the 560-but enough to introduce some software glitches which could do any number of odd things. Harbor Freight used to sell an interesting "canned air" device. It was a metal can that had an attachment that could be pressurized with air-or filled with liquids to atomize the spray under pressure, using an ordinary bicycle tire pump fitting for air and an open top for liquids. I think they still make these, I keep one just for using canned air around computers and other electronics, when chemicals are not a safe alternative to clean up anything. or to spray at the cats when they claw up the drapes or walls, or my leg.....

Thanks Silvano.

Glad to see you are such a big Casio fan....if you study the dozens of posts here, you will find out-many users here have and are creating unique user rhythms for the CTX and many other Casio keyboards-and there are also tutorials here showing you how to roll yer' own. "don't Bogart that joint my friend.."

More details. There are 2 buttons for transpose. Are you saying the "up" button is not working-does it make a clicking sound and pop back up again like the other PX-560 buttons? Or..is the up button physically working-clicking and springing back up when you push it down-but the PX560 is not responding-is ot changing its transpose setting even though the switch feels like it is working? these 2 different scenarios would need 2 different fixes. if the small rectangular switch i stuck-is not clicking when you press it-this means the tiny "clicky" switch inside is broken and will need to be replaced, a job for a technician. not impossible but will require technical skill and the right part. Or something got into the switch from the outside and is just physically stuck-if this is so, try dropping some electronic tuner cleaner if you have any, or isopropyl alcohol-only a drop and work the switch-or try blowing air with some pressure right into the switch. But if this is a software problem-the switch physically works properly-try re-booting the PX560 although if one of your 560 transpose buttons doesn't work-you can't since you push and hold both transpose buttons while powering on the PX560 to reboot it. Might try that anyway.

Considering how much money Uli Behringer has had to spend already countering his other lawsuits, especially from Roland and I think Moog (there is a "Moog Foundation" so he pushed his luck on that one) if Casio decides to join in with another lawsuit-I don't know if he can afford to keep his huge Chinese factory open for much longer. He claims he is "reverse-engineering" not copying and so far he has gotten away with this lawyer-speak. And he claims he is taking advantage of the original manufacturers not bothering to follow through on what have become classic pieces of hardware. He has a good point there, although the XW-P1 comes close to sounding like a CZ if you know how to manipulate the CZ waveforms that are in it-not exactly a CZ. But Casio has stopped making the XW's too. And the MZ series. I would buy this if it isn't vaporware, the price is right and if reviews are favorable-but many have complained about Behringer's other clones-the model D, Pro-1 etc. as not quite being as good quality as the originals, so I have resisted the gearlust, and bought a small banged-up Alesis Micron instead which needed quite a bit of restoration but is like having 3 Behringer clones built into one and has a similar "form-factor" with 37 keys in a steel case and I can use it as a midi DIN out controller. Doesn't have the CZ waveforms in it though.

I have another thought-the XW-does the screen light up at all-even dimly? Regardless, there is another possibility, whether it is totally dead or not-I would guess the mainboard-with its CPU that has "embedded" firmware in ROM-meaning only Casio can restore it, as in my long ago XW-P1 that I killed by updating the firmware erroneously-might have failed somehow. I would think the mainboards in both the XW-G1 and P1 are pretty similar-especially regarding reflashing the mainboard. From my experience with my XW-P1 years back-if the firmware fails, nothing will work, it will appear dead. Given that there is power to the mainboard, and every other circuit in the XW-I would have to suspect the mainboard has failed, and must be replaced. When you checked with a multimeter-did you find power is getting to other circuits? I usually just find a grounding point for a multimeter-easy to do, then touch my positive lead to various points everywhere-with power on, you should see anywhere from 1-3V DC to (I guess), 5V or 9-12V depending on where you are in the circuits. You can't do any harm as long as you are using your DC mode with the multimeter, and don't short anything else. And I have found, even the tiniest hairline crack or cold solder joint almost anywhere can stop a keyboard dead in its tracks. I have had to use high power magnifying tools to see this and have more than once found tiny cracks in solder I could not see without magnification. I don't know, my XW has been very reliable-inside looks like it would take something major to kill it.

Have to see the schematics-see what the audio output consists of. could be dedicated op-amps already, or nowadays could be integrated into anther style of output IC. Years ago, there were companies who promised higher quality audio outputs by installing better quality op-amps and related lower noise components in the output chain. Results were not spectacular.

There is a slim possibility-even with batteries-the power jack inside might be broken-cracked solder joints are common with these jacks-and could be shorting out power to the keyboard. I'd have to look inside the Casio myself to see how the battery power wires are connected-if these are independent of the power jack connections or if there is circuit connectivity through the jack to the battery connectors. If a tiny smd blows-you will see it-I have seen these blown and these do disintegrate visibly. Don't give up on this yet. If the malfunction was in the mainboard, it would still (generally) power on, but just not go through its startup routines. Most times-the complete power failures are power supply components-and since the power supply is an external brick-there shouldn't be too many other internal components in the power chain, you need to look directly at the solder joints common to the power jack and battery wires inside-see if those + - points are getting power and check other nearby components to "circuit trace" where the power stops, if your basic +-junction points are getting power to that board. Won't be hard to find those, but you need to know how to work a multimeter which is a good tool to learn around keyboards and etc. anyway if you have no-one around that can do that. Not hard to work with. Sounds like your power supply is OK-not sure with the Casios, many other brands I've opened have their own internal fuses-but since you say this doesn't work with batteries either...

I could not go to Anaheim-but am waiting for reports about possible Casio releases in addition the new line of retro (or Japanese) design digital pianos, but that might be it for 2023. Was supposed to be in January originally and was postponed. Anybody on the boards here attend in person, see anything interesting? I'm thinking Mike Martin might have been able to be there.