- T -

That's great, Dave! Enjoy! Remember to get some sleep now and then! - T -

Maj ! ! ! Before you settle on the CTX-700/800, you need to be aware of the concerns, expressed in other threads on this forum, that those models provide no means for adjusting the volumes (levels) of the second (layered) right hand, or the split left hand tones separate from that of the main right hand tone. This would most assuredly detract from any serious music production efforts. With that in mind, I would have to agree with Chandler. For the desires and aspirations you have expressed, I would suggest nothing less than the CT-X3000, with a strong leaning toward the CT-X5000, but if you really prefer 76 keys, as do I, and cost is an issue, you may want to consider a WK-7600, while they are still being offered. Their prices have come down considerably since the advent of the CT-X models. The WK-7600 is Casio's full featured, top of the line, 76 key, studio based, Arranger Workstation. Besides its 17 track linear sequencer (song recorder) with "EASY RECord", it also has a looping Pattern Sequencer for creating your own accompaniment rhythms, as well as full audio recording and SD Memory Card storage capabilities. Yes! It does not have the latest sound engine of the CT-X models, but the sound engine it does have is a huge step up from the one you have been using in that WK-245. That sound engine in those "learning" series boards is a perfectly good engine, but it has been around for a long, long time. Now, I finally have to take issue with your disdain for high level sequencers and DAW's: that they robotize otherwise pristine performances. Those "robotics" do not happen by default. If they happen, they happen at the direction/behest of you, the creator. You just have to learn not to get carried away with the features that dehumanize a performance. There, that is my 2 cents worth. I wish you all the best with your efforts. In the meantime, if you stay with the WK-245 for a while, there is nothing wrong with that. It is a fine board for where you're currently at. I got enormous use and enjoyment out of my WK-225 for several years. - T -

Anvil Studio is the current MIDI-based freeware DAW of choice. It does include a full set of audio features to make it a full-featured DAW, but the MIDI based features are not buried under a ton of audio based menus, like those of the audio based DAW's. It has become a favorite of newcomers because it has a much gentler learning curve than most of the more "professional" DAW's. Then there is the former Cakewalk "Sonar", which is now offered as a free download from BandLab as "Cakewalk", but be forewarned, it is a full featured "professional" grade MIDI-based DAW with the steep learning curve that it has had for years. If I were in the market, this would be my choice, simply because I have been a Cakewalk user since their first offering on a 3 1/2 diskette under the name "Cakewalk by Twelve Tones Systems", but I am not currently in the market, because I am still using my Sonar-X1, and will probably continue to do so for some years to come. - T -

Since you are using the Pattern Sequencer, you can ignore all that extra info I added into my previous post on this. That only comes into consideration, but most importantly so, if you are trying to record what you are doing using the EASY RECord method of the linear Song Sequencer.

See my response to your other thread on this matter. https://www.casiomusicforums.com/index.php?/topic/17497-how-do-i-open-casio-sp7-sound-files-on-my-windows-7-pc/&do=findComment&comment=55324

See the list of files in the left hand column on Page EN-62 of the WK-245 manual. The only device you currently have that can use any of those files (with one exception) is your WK-245. With the exception of the Standard MIDI File (SMF) with the .MID extension, all of those files are Casio proprietary. They are not Windows or MAC-OS files and can not be opened by programs of those operating systems. When you transfer those files to a PC with the Data Manager software, it is strictly for off-keyboard storage. If you want to use (play) them, they will need to be loaded back into the keyboard with the Data Manager software. A word of caution about SMF's. If you create a Casio CM2 Song File with the WK-245's Song Recorder, then ultimately convert it to an SMF, so that it can be played on a PC, the first thing that conversion process does is discard all of the high quality Casio sounds and substitutes equivalent sounds from the General MIDI (GM) sound set. It will also discard most or all of any effects the CM2 Song Recorder applied to your performance. So a converted SMF is never going to sound like your CM2 Song. Artistically very costly, but at least it will play in anything with an SMF player and a GM sound set. A true one size fits all arrangement If you really want to record your WK-245 for playback off the keyboard, I recommend connecting its headphones jack, with any necessary audio adapters, to the input of some audio recording device (recorder, PC, MAC, iOS or Android device). Since you will be connecting a fairly high level output to a relatively low level input, I recommend a 20db attenuator cable somewhere in the link. If your device records to AIFF format, that is full uncompressed CD quality. If it records to MP3, that is compressed to save storage space, so you will take a bit of a hit on the sound quality. You can play live into your audio recording gear, but I always found it less distracting to my performance to record into my WK-225's Song Recorder, and when I got a take that I wanted, play that take back into my audio gear when I am free to be the audio/recording engineer. If you play back through a decent set of headphones or a good quality sound system, that is about as close as you are going to get to the original sound of your WK-245. Then, there is always the USB-MIDI connection into a computer based DAW program, but you have already expressed your current disdain for that in another thread, so I will not pursue that matter further here at this time. - T -

The WK-245 has no SD Memory Card or USB Flash Drive slots for the external storage of data. You will have to transfer any such data via USB cable to the hard drive on a computer using Casio's Data Manager 5.0 software. It is compatible with all versions of Windows 7 and newer (32 & 64 bit), but it is not compatible with any version of MAC-OS. Data Manager 6.1 is compatible with all versions of MAC-OS, but it is not compatible, and will not communicate with the WK-245. You can download a copy of the Data Manager 5.0 software and a PDF copy of its User's Guide from here: https://support.casio.com/en/support/download.php?cid=008&pid=71 Scroll all the way down and click on the "I agree" button. Then scroll down a few more lines and click on the link for downloading the User's Guide. - T -

Take a closer look, Johnathon. You will probably find a thin, flat connector with 18 or 24 pins. This is a USB-C connector. I say 18 or 24, because there seems to be a big discrepancy about this on the web. Whichever: it takes the place of the old USB connectors as well as the 3.5mm MIC/Line-In and Phones/Line-Out jacks. Of course, these manufacturers will be more than ecstatic to sell you their overpriced adapters in order for you to connect THEIR new technology to YOUR real world ! ! ! - T -

The Android and iOS operating systems do not accept the installation of 3rd party or after-market "drivers" as do Windows and MAC-OS. Any "driver" functions must be written as an integral part of the operating system and/or the app. To begin with, ensure that you have the plain "Chordana Play" app NOT the "Chordana Play for Piano" app, which is for the Casio Digital Piano models, and will not work with the Chordana Play compatible CTK and LK portable keyboard models. The CTK-2500 and CTK-3500 are compatible with Chordana Play on both Android and iOS. Here is a link to the Casio-India YouTube video overview of the app for those two keyboards, which require no special USB cables, adapters, or set ups. You need only a standard 3.5mm stereo audio cable from your phone's or tablet's audio headphones connection to the keyboard's Aux In jack. That's it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dm_WkPD9B4M Since the CTK-2500 and CTK-2550 share the same manual, I assume that all of this applies to the CTK-2550 as well. Enjoy! - T -

Yes ! Technically, there is no INPUT that comes anywhere near matching the impedance (dynamic reactive resistance) of a headphones output. Maximum audio power transfer only occurs when the output impedance of the source circuit matches the input impedance of the subsequent circuit. Also, there can be an enormous difference in level, because you are usually second-guessing on the output level of the headphones output circuit. By their design, there will normally be a very close level and impedance match on Line Level outputs and inputs - such as the 1/4" (TS) L and R outputs on a keyboard and the L and R inputs on an amplifier, mixer, recorder, etc. This is the ultimate for a good quality recording. Typically, about the only device that matches the level and impedance of a MIC input is the proper type of MIC, itself. The typical MIC input does not come anywhere near matching the level or impedance of a headphones output or a Line Level output. In reality, you can connect just about any output to just about any input and get it to work, after a fashion, but it is the quality of the resulting signal that defines the success of the connection. Level mismatches can result in signals that are low and noisy or full of distortion from an overdriven input, while impedance mismatches can result in high or low (or both) frequencies that are overly attenuated. - T -

Majek The sound engines and song recorders of the WK-2XX models are older and simpler than those of the CTK/WK-6XXX/7XXX models, which are, in a sense, the predecessors of the current CT-X models. The WK-2XX models generate the older CM2 song file format, instead of the newer CMS Song Sequencer format of the newer boards. The WK-2XX models share most of their specs with the 61 key LK "Lighted Key" models and are an integral part of Casio's "learning" series boards with on-screen fingering diagrams and other features to facilitate the music learning process. - T -

I suspect that you are getting a ground loop hum. With the old transformer power supplies, the big old heavy "bricks", this was not much of a problem, as neither the power bus nor the ground bus of the powered device was tied directly to either side of the incoming power mains, but with the modern "switching" power supplies, the ground bus of the powered device is always tied directly to the ground lead of the incoming power mains for polarized plugs or either side of the incoming mains for non-polarized plugs. With that in mind, if your CT-X9000 power adapter has a non-polarized plug, try reversing the connection to the mains to see if that resolves your problem, if it does, then you are in business, but if it does not, or you have a polarized plug, then you will need to resort to more drastic measures. In your case, if either the computer or the keyboard has an old transformer power supply, then you usually will not have a problem, but when both have switching power supplies, you can get hum producing ground loops throught all of the circuits. I could suggest you try a USB MIDI/audio interface, but USB devices are often the source of ground loops, so I will not suggest that sort of investment. Normally, before making any sort of investment, I would suggest disconnecting the keyboard from its power adapter and running it on battery. If that resolves the problem, then you are on the right track, but if it does not, then you have a different problem and need to seek a different solution. However, you do not have the option of running the CT-X9000IN on batteries, so you have a financial decision to make. The only true solution is an isolation transformer between the power mains and the CT-X9000's power adapter to break that ground loop connection between the keyboard's power supply and the computer's power supply, but isolation transformers can get a bit expensive. Sometimes a device called a DI Box can help, but it needs to be one that is designed specifically to include ground loop hum reduction, among its other capabilities. DI Boxes can also get a bit expensive, especially those that reduce ground hum. Perhaps the best move for now is to give this thread a few days to attract comments and suggestion from other members, who have already had success with a more economical solution. In the meantime, you may want to do a search on "fixing switching power supply ground loop hum" for suggestions. Good luck! - T -

USB-C is not a new USB communication protocol (like USB-1.0 or 1.1 or 2.0 or 3.0 or 3.1). It is just regular old USB with a differently configured connector, so any devices (keyboards, etc) that have been working via USB should continue to work OK with new devices equipped with USB-C connectors via the proper USB-C to USB adapter. However, with the tribulations we saw with third party non-Apple Camera Connection Kits, I would strongly recommend going the price of the genuine Apple USB-C to USB adapter when connecting to an Apple device, if you want to be assured of your connection working first time every time. So, your WK-245 should connect fine to your iPhone 8 with the Apple USB-C to USB Adapter. Your CTK-2500, however, may be a bit of a different story. Since it has no USB ports, you do not need to worry about that. Apple does offer a USB-C to 3.5mm analog stereo headphone adapter. This would allow you to connect the iPhone-8's audio output to the CTK-2500's Audio In for playing MP3's from the iPhone through the WK-2500's speakers, but for going the other way, and recording the CTK-2500's (or WK-245's) audio output on the iPhone-8, you would need a Line Level to USB-C Adapter currently being marketed primarily for recording on the USB-C equipped MAC's. This may require connecting the USB-C adapter to various analog audio adapters to connect to 3.5mm stereo connectors or dual 1/4" line level connectors. Whenever connecting this adapter to a headphones output, you would need to watch the output level very closely to avoid distortion from overdrive. Good luck! - T -

Whatever cable you are using to connect the CTK-2550 to your phone, connect the phone end only, do not connect the keyboard end, and see if your volume control is affected. In order to protect against hearing damage, some phones and tablets limit the volume when something is connected to the "headphones" jack, but it is the presence of a plug in this jack that initiates the limitation, not the connected device. Also, whatever app you are using with this connection, start the app without connecting the phone to the CTK-2550 and see if your phone's volume is affected. If it is, then the problem is the app, not the CTK-2550. If the CTK-2550 is, in fact, adversely affecting your phone's volume control, then your phone is not compatible with the CTK-2550, and should not be connected to it. If your phone is an Android device, with all the various "flavors" of the Android OS, there really are no gaurantees of what will work with what.

smiggell I was adding some additional info as you were replying. This is important info, if you are going to record your performance. so be sure to look at that. - T -

In the MIXER section, you can set the Pitch Bend Range for each of the Parts A-01 through A-16 and B-01 through B-16. You would need to set the Bend Range to zero for each of the parts that you do not want to be affected by the Bend Wheel. In actuality, during "live" play, Part A-01 is the UPPER-1 (right hand main) part, Part A-02 is the UPPER-2 (right hand layer) part, and Part A-03 is the SPLIT (left hand) part. Part A-04 is for the right hand Auto-harmonize part. All other "A" parts are for Auto-accompaniment, so if you are not using Auto-accompaniment, you do net need to worry about those parts. The same applies to the Part A-04 Auto-harmonize part. So if you want the Bend Wheel to affect only your left hand part, you would set the Bend Range to zero for Parts A-01 and A-02, or if you want the Bend Wheel to affect only the right hand layer part, you would set the Bend Range to zero for Parts A-01 and A-03. BUT . . . . This is only for "live" play. If you record your performance with the EASY RECord method, Parts A-01, A-02, and A-03 are automatically offset to record on Parts A-05, A-06, and A-07 respectively, so the Bend Range would need to be set for those parts, accordingly, as well. The keyboard does this to always reserve Parts A-01, A-02, and A-03 for "live" play. This way, you can play along with a previously recorded piece without your new "live" notes interfering with previously recorded notes on Parts A-01, A-02, and A-03, as those notes were automatically transferred to Parts A-05, A-06 and A-07 during the recording process. - T -

WK models are just the 76 key version of some equivalent 61 key CTK model with identical specs except for the number of keys. Casio calls the 61 key CTK models"Portable Keyboards" and the 76 key WK models "Workstations". Currently, there are no 76 key equivalents of the CT-X models.

You will probably have to buy the correct size connector, cut the wrong size connector off of one of those 12 volt supplies, and solder on the correct size. At one time, in the US, you could just haul your keyboard down to the neighborhood Radio Shack store and try connectors out of their parts bins until you found the correct size, but those days are long gone. Trying to measure the connection in the keyboard so you can order the correct size plug can be a real PITB. You could always consult the service manual, but you usually have to pay for those, and they usually don't come cheap. It would probably be quickest and easiest to call Casio Support and ask what is the correct size for the plug, then order one from an electronics parts supplier on the web. You could also search the web for an AC Adapter specifically for a WK-3500, but if you go that route, you would want a guarantee of a return policy, if they send you something that doesn't fit/work. The ones I found were being offered for about $25 USD. - T -

Since the CTK-2500/2550 have no USB connections, I assume that you are trying to connect one of the keyboard's audio connections to your phone. Which connector on the keyboard are you trying to connect to your phone - the Phones/Output jack or the Audio In jack ? Are you trying to connect to an iPhone or an Android phone? If an Android phone, what make and model is it? The audio jack in some phones is a 4 conductor TRRS (Tip-Ring-Ring-Sleeve) jack instead of the typical 3 conductor stereo TRS (Tip-Ring-Sleeve) jack. This is to accomodate headsets that require totally separate circuits for the mic and earphone.

Norman Welcome to the Casio Forums! Accompaniment volume (AccompVol) on the WK-6600 is adjusted from the FUNCTION MENU. See Page E-98 of the manual. Adjusting Accompaniment, Song, and Metronome volumes are the first items on that page. The overall description of the FUNCTION MENU begins on Page E-95. It would be a good idea to read through that entire section to become familiar with what all is controlled with that menu system and how you can use it to make the WK-6600 do pretty much what you want it to do. Basically, the FUNCTION MENU is a "setup" menu for the entire keyboard. Once you have developed one or more"setups" that you like to use repeatedly, you can save them into REGISTRATIONS (Page E-61), so that you can immediately return the entire keyboard to a particular "setup" at the touch of one or two buttons. See the Parameter List on Page-E126. The current status of every item on that list, that has a circle in Column 2, is saved when you create (save/write) a REGISTRATION. Likewise, you can set the keyboard to power up to the defaults indicated by circles in Column 3. See Default Settings in the left hand column of Page-E99. Best of luck, and enjoy your WK-6600 ! Regards, - T -

Fran Glad you were able to get your problem sorted on this, but more especially, many thanks for sharing your solution. Regards, - T -

For some reason, I am unable to establish a link to that post, so I will just copy and paste the text of it here. I can not attest to the accuracy and/or completeness of his process, as from several of his statements, it appears that he still did not fully understand the differences between the EASY RECord method (which he did not want) and the Track-by-Track or Track-at-a-Time record method (which he DID want), nor how to properly and reliably select one or the other, at the time he composed this. That is understandable, as this was probably the most difficult to learn process of the CTK/WK-6XXX/7XXX models. I did note in one of his other posts that he had apparently sold his WK-7600, so I doubt very much that we will hear any more from him on this subject. Regards, - T - I figured it out and posted it on thread, here is the instructions. LouisVA. I have figured it out! totally! how to just record track after track of keyboard created sounds. they REALLY didn't make it easy. debating on trying to make a vid tonight to post to my youtube. explaining it in words is tough. since they made it SO FRICKIN circular. there are steps I see that you have to do EACH TIME you record a new track or it falls to a default sound (piano no sustain, boring), so, each time you set the next track up, you have to make sure to go back and set your sound up, even right up to the moment you hit record, you will see it sneak back to the default piano, boo. also, you do NOT want to be in EASY REC mode, that is the one shot record, you cannot layer those recordings. so while it may be good for practice, I would find it easier to just get used to the rec mode, and just use one track for a practice track. back to easy rec/ song rec mode, when you select that, sometimes it goes into easy mode (boo) instead of rec mode (yeah). so, I would say the first thing to do is get the sound you want, but since that can get shuffled around without your permission, I would say the FIRST thing to do is to hit the song sequence button, then the record button. if it says EASY REC, then hit song sequence again and record again till it says SONG REC, that is the multi track mode. now, once you are in SONG REC mode, while the rec button is flashing, you can go around and set stuff up, just don't hit any keys or it will start recording! if that happens, you need to start the process over again to get it set up for recording. once you ARE set up for recording, I find the USER TONES the best ones to use. why? because they have the sustain/decay set up. otherwise you need to set the tone up to your liking each time you select one, then you need to hit the song seq, record, and all that EVERY TIME you want a sound. I don't have many user tones set up, but am building up those tones so I don't have to keep adjusting the settings each time. when you are looking at the screen in record mode, there is a little A or B on the screen. you do NOT want to be in A mode, since that is more for auto accompaniment, which is fine, but not my thing. you need to use the left right buttons next to the function section, I think, those should move you over to the B setting. function then menu button while still holding function button: when NOT in record mode, will allow you to erase track or song. if you are having trouble deleting a track, delete song, as long as you only have 1 or 2 tracks recorded. ALSO, if you are not careful, you will record a track on A which will play but not show up on B, also, when you are in song record mode, the left right buttons under EXIT and ENTER will move you from A to B, remember, you want to use the B channel. you should notice when in B, you can keep hitting the RIGHT button and you will move along tracks 1 -16. also, if something is recorded on one of these, there will be a black like like a hockey puck to show there is a recording on that track. as far as the A channel, you will see if there is something on there if while playing you switch to A and see the meters rising showing recorded stuff, that will ONLY happen on B if you recorded on it, so you need to delete that (function/menu, clear track, move left to right button to the left all the way to show SYSTEM, that will delete A channel stuff) function then menu button while still holding function button IN RECORD MODE: adjusts beat 4/4 etc, metronome, and precount. I like to record just with metronome but may use the drumbeats, just don't like getting used to the beats on the keyboard since I have a drum machine, but good for keeping time. I am all over the place with the description but you can go back and read as you need it. SET UP THE PRECOUNT, so it doesn't jump right in to recording. metronome on and precount on. hit the START/STOP and instead of the casio beats, if you are set up in record mode correctly, it will count off to start recording. plus when you are done, hit that button, and to play back, hit that button. I have just been playing a sound for like 30 seconds to see if it recorded, then moving cursor to track 2 to see if it is working, and it has been. the manual explains this in a bad, bad way. everyone with this thing has to figure it out. for the price it would be a shame and a waste not to use it. I am working on my recordings more, so I want to record multi tracks on this, then run it into my tascam 24 track and put guitar, bass, drum machine, vocals, after that. AND, make sure to make the most of the MIXER feature. use pan to separate sounds, AND if you hit the down arrow once, you can adjust the volume of the tones, so everything isn't at the same level, a must for good recording, some sounds should be quieter, to the left, to the right, and so on. that is all of it, I actually came back and sat at the keyboard hitting buttons to make sure they were working as explained. don't know if you have been building up user tones, but this thing has the memory for it. every time I back out of a sound I like, I kept not saving it, now if it is a sound I like, I save the settings. I didn't realize they were all in the user tone section/button. happy jamming!! we beat them louisVA, lol May 28, 2018 Report

The PX-5S is viewed, corporately, as a "professional" Stage Piano, while the XW-P1/XW-G1 are viewed, corporately as "professional" synths. All are non-Arranger (non-one-man-bander) devices, while the CTK/WK models are stuck with the long-standing stigma, across the entire keyboard manufacturing spectrum, as home/hobby/amateur Arranger (one-man-bander) devices, because of their primary use and deployment. While there are many fine musicians, who make their "professional livings" with these devices, the music world, as a whole, continues to turn a blind eye and a deaf ear toward them. Possibly the Casio MZ-X series, the Korg PA series, the Ketron Audya, the recent Yamaha Genos, and to a lesser extent, its predecessor, the Tyros line are early attempts to provide interested musicians with truly professional Arranger devices, but due to the initial investment required, haven't really changed the scene much. I will venture to say that even the top-of-the-line Yamaha Tyros models were still used primarily in a home/hobby environment, but this follows, logically, from their predecessor - the home organ - with its Auto-accompaniment (Arranger) features. Roland ventured into the professional Arranger arena in the late 90's and early 2000's with its G800/G1000 and G70 models, then all but withdrew from the Arranger market altogether. So, I guess only time will tell, if there is any kind of a permanent niche for truly professional Arrangers. In the meantime, we are pretty much on our own for indepth tutorials and training aids. In the early days of the CTK/WK-6XXX/7XXX models, Mike Martin provided some much needed video material on those models, but his responsibilities are spread across the entire Casio keyboard line, so his time and resources for any particulat model, or "type" of model are, understandably, limited. So, we will send him a much deserved "Thank You !" for what he was able to do for us. - T -

The Audio-in of the WK-220 is a standard 3.5mm three conductor TRS (Tip-Ring-Sleeve) mini-stereo audio connector that matches the audio output or "phones" connection of a typical iPod-type MP3 player, so you would need a standard stereo cable with 3.5mm TRS mini-stereo connectors. You will find these on the "accessory" sales racks where MP3 players, smartphones, and boom-boxes are sold. They normally come in 1/2, 1, 2, and 3 meter lengths. Any of those lengths will work fine for you, so you can select the most convenient length for your particular set up. If you should happen to select a larger "player" device (some boom-boxes) that use the large 1/4 inch TRS stereo connector, you will normally find 3.5mm mini stereo to 1/4 inch stereo adapter plugs sold where the above cables are sold. There are also cables that have the 3.5 mm mini connector installed on one end, and the large 1/4 inch connector permanently installed on the other end. If you connect the WK-220 to a "player' device while that "player" device is connected to the commercial power mains through its power adapter, you may get excessive "ground hum" in the audio output of the WK-220. If this occurs, you will need to have the "player" device running on its battery power supply, while it is connected to the WK-220

You need to contact Casio Support directly for either the Service Manual, or for the part, itself. Perhaps one of the Moderators or Mike Martin can provide you with info on how to contact Casio Support directly.