CZ1000 not powering up

[Eastwardaudio]

Hello all

 

i have a CZ1000 that won’t power up. I’ve checked and verified with a multimeter that the external power supply is working. The LED on the power button doesn’t light up when it in the On position but the LCD screen is somewhat active with very faint pixel display.

Where should I start to attempt a self repair of the unit. I am not a tech and have very basic know how and skill with electronics. Thanks

 

jt. 

[Chas]

A couple of easy things you can try with the CZ1000 and CZ101. 

 

There is a reset button on the underside of the case, in a small recessed hole marked "P". With the unit powered on, use a ball point pen or blunt toothpick to press and hold the reset button for approx. 5 - 10 seconds. That might do something, though it's normally used for clearing the patch memory if it gets scrambled. 

 

The other thing you can try is to power it with batteries. That would rule out any issues with the AC adapter and the associated circuitry.

 

If neither of the above do anything, you'll have to get hold of the service manual, take the CZ apart and perform diagnostics tests to identify the problem(s).

[pianokeyjoe]

First things first. Is the power supply 9VDC 500mA or higher amps, and is the POLARITY correct? For ALL vintage and most 1990s-2000s Casio, the Power input is NEGATIVE CENTER PIN on the JACK and NEGATIVE CENTER on the tip of the power supply . IF you used a common Center POSITIVE, you may have damaged the voltage regulator at the input or the diodes or capacitor at the input or all 3. These are what blow first when you try and power a Casio with the wrong polarity for more than 3 seconds. Some units can hold out for longer but it is also a common failure with KORG and some ROLAND keyboards that also use NEGATIVE CENTER/PIN 9VDC power supplies. Very irritating. IF you have used the correct power supply, the next thing to check is the POWER SUPPLY BOARD in the CZ1000. Mine was just like yours, same dim display. I changed the PSU board and tada! Power! But, short of you having a second power board/amp board for your CZ like I did, checking the input components I mentioned will be a good start. The Keyboard has ribbon cables that can also snap off due to bad solder joints, or the worst thing.. BATTERY ACID LEAKS. Have you checked the inside of the keyboard for battery acid leak damage? That would be the first thing to check actually, when you buy ANY vintage portable keyboard. If there is signs of that leakage damage around the battery compartment and thus, inside the keyboard, you may be in for some work or the board may be a total loss like one of my CZ230S  and HT3000 keyboards. Check for that first and fore most and do check the power supply for correct polarity and voltage.