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Found 7 results

  1. Hi, My Privia PX-850 developed a loud key (i.e. full volume regardless of the key actuation force). I suspected an issue in the sensor of the key, and opened up the piano to try and repair the issue. I could not find nice information online on disassembly of this piano, so I'd like to share some pictures with you here, perhaps it will be of use to someone. I started by removing the backpanel. That was easy, but be aware of the cable connecting the lid sensor. There is a connector that allows disconnection. Next I removed the keyboard cover. A screw holds the metal bar in place on the spring mechanism. Loosen the screw and slide out the bar. Next, the whole cover can be slid out of the rails. Next, I removed the whole keyboard assembly out of the cabinet. In retrospect than may not be necessary to remove the pianokeys and access the sensors, but this is how I did it. I loosened the center electronics cabinet and loosened all connectors. The high density flat cable can be unlocked by lifting up the plastic top ridge in the pcb connector. The right speaker casing also needed to be removed as it covers some screws. I removed the front panel with the controls. It is attached to the keyboard assembly through several posts, unscrew these from the front panel. Also, At 1/3 of the length next to the grille two screws keep together two segments. After detaching, both halves easily come out. I removed the tape and ziptie connecing the cables to the white keyboard assembly. The keyboard came loose with 3 screws on top and a whole bunch on the bottom. After this, the whole assemble could be maneuvered out of the back with relative easy. Take care to support it well over the length. Next, I loosened the retaining bracket behind the affected keys. Also, the black posts for the front panel had to be removed in that segment. After removal, I could take out first the white keys, then the black. The keys hinge between white plastic tabs, after prying and spreading them a bit the key can pop up, and move back and out. I removed keys until a whole sensor segment was exposed.. I loosened the rubber strip from the membrane switch array gently. It is stuck in with soft rubber pins in holes on the pcb. Each key had 3 contracts (tri sensor!) at different heights, I suspect the connect sequentially and stroke force is deduced from the timing between them. Finally, what I came to do. I gently cleaned both the carbonized rubber contacts and the zigzag pcb segments with isopropyl alcohol and a sort of cotton tip applicator. Then reassembly. The rubber segment was hard to get seated in the holes, until I found that a paper clip wire can poke in the holes on the top and nicely push in the 'legs' below in their holes. Next the keys went back in, secured by the brackets, everything back in the cabinet, and try to remember where all screws came from. In the end, I powered up the instrument, and yay! the piano key is now touch sensitive again. Mission accomplished. Over here I made a movie of the action being actuated.
  2. CT-403 Repair

    Hey all, I'm new to this forum, but I'm looking for help repairing my Casiotone 403. I accidentally knocked it over and it now no longer powers on. If anyone happens to have any experience with these and could point me in the direction of the possible components which might've failed, I would be eternally grateful.
  3. I recently acquired a CZ101 one but this one seems to make a clicking noise when it receives MIDI data on other channels. For example, CZ set to channel 1, notes being played on channel 16 make a clicking noise corresponding to their durations, so its not random noise. If I turn them off in the MIDI program, those other channel clicks disappear, but the receiving channel still plays the clicks from its midi on messages. Playing the same patches via the keyboard there is no such raspy clicking noises. I was hoping somebody may have encountered this problem before and new how to fix it. thanks
  4. We moved to a new house that apparently has power surges (hooray!) After one such surge our Celviano AP220 stopped turning on. I bought a new power supply and now it turns on, but it won't play. When it turns on it makes a very loud sound similar to when someone plugs a microphone into a system that is already on. Then it will not play from the keys, from demo, or the metronome. It also does not work through headphones/outside speakers. Any idea which part might be malfunctioning and whether a handy person would be able to replace on her own? Thanks!
  5. Hi all, I'm new to the forums here, and hoping you folks can help. I have a Casio WK-110 that I was finally able to get out of storage after it had been sitting for 3 years. It worked perfectly when I put it into storage. I couldn't find the original power supply, but bought a 9-volt 850amp DC output one off of Amazon that claimed to be compatible. I plugged it in, and the keyboard gets power and the screen turns on, but that's it - none of the buttons work, no sound from the keyboard. Also, pressing the power button again won't let it power off - it stays on until I unplug the power supply from the keyboard. I did some searching online and tried some tricks like holding down the transpose key and the down key, and occasionally get some feedback from the speakers, but that's it. I called Casio support, but I just got put on endless hold. I'm writing here to see if anyone has any ideas on how to restore this old guy, as it's my only instrument left after a bout of homelessness and I won't be able to afford to buy a new one for a while. Many thanks in advance!
  6. "Dead" Key on PX-5S

    I recently moved to China from the US for a job assignment and took my Casio PX-5S (purchased less than a year ago). Unfortunately, something must have gotten damaged in transit as the middle "E" key does not sustain. It is still responsive to touch and velocity, but the note always ends instantaneously and does not sustain if I hold down the key. It will only sustain if used in conjunction with a sustain pedal. I've filed a claim with the mover's insurance company who agreed to pay $500 for the repair, but I have no idea who could perform the repair in China or if it's something I can do myself. I'm handy with a soldering iron but I'm not sure if this is a dirty contact issue or something more serious. Anybody have any thoughts on repair and what might be involved? I'd rather do it myself since I'm in a foreign country and the warranty only allows service in the country where it was purchased.
  7. On eBay I had bought parts of a Casio Symphonytron. I don't own the entire stage organ system but only one CT-8000, the RC-1 accompaniment/drum machine and a defective MB-1 sequencer in very beaten up condition (full of scratches, dirt and glue residues), but no pedal board. It came without the CIDI (Casio's Infernal/Inferior/Internal/Instrument Digital Interface) cables, so I ordered 3 DIN14 cables for Atari ST floppy, those work perfectly with the RC-1 (with one keyboard it does key split accompaniment with arpeggio, and also the trio mode works). Like with Kawai MS20, when you set a preset sound on the keyboard it plays a short fanfare with it (always the same notes). How ever my MB-1 doesn't work at all (buttons don't respond and it makes sometimes a louder growing digital buzz); possibly the eprom is dead. Also CT-8000 and RC-1 contain (as the only Casio instruments I know) each a soldered eprom; I backed up all 3 to avoid data loss. Unfortunately my Symphonytron sequencer unit MB-1 is dead (does nothing, but plays note mess when touching the crystal etc.), so I am not sure if its eprom may have failed (dump does not change by reducing Vcc) or it might be still a bug by the lack of original CIDI port cables. - hardware details I have photographed all my Symphonytron PCBs from both sides. The multi-chip hardware is quite complex and particularly the RC-1 and MB-1 have several stacked PCBs in their crowded case. Fortunately there are are some pinout marks on them, those may help to decipher them. The MB-1 and CT-8000 both have the same CPU "NEC D8049C 364" (Intel MCS-48, I dumped its firmware) with sound IC "D931C 011". The RC-1 CPU is a "NEC D930G 011". So they are far relatives of the Casio CT-410V (MT-65) hardware class (minus the VCA, but with external ROM) which may help to research hidden functions of its chip set. I don't own the FK-1 pedal board, so I have no clue what is inside. Did you know that early Casio keyboards had a CPU compatible with Intel 8049? Unfortunately the "Willem Pro4 isp" eprommer had a way too weak power supply with tiny SMD transistors switching the voltages. One was burnt anyway, so I had to install bigger non-SMD ones to get the MCS-48 adapter to work. Casio "D8049C xxx" ICs need Vcc of at least 4.5V to read properly, which was impossible with the original transistors ans PSU (it gave only 4V even in 5.6V mode). I installed a 10kOhm resistor into the EA line to avoid damage by the +12V if the IC would not have supported it properly, and connected it to a 5kOhm potentiometer to vary the voltage, which I didn't need. (Too high EA voltage (15V) outputs only "00" while too low voltage (9V?) makes the CPU run its program and output garbage. At too low Vcc it repeats the first part of the rom again and again.) So I e.g. could read the firmware of the Symphonytron Casio CT-8000 cpu and Casio HT-6000 synth (its D80C48 seems to be a real CMOS IC that draws less current). Also MT-36,MT-40,MT-90/MT-200 and Casiotone 401 have such a CPU. - need service manual Eons ago I downloaded the complete Symphonytron user manual from an eBay link, but I have no schematics. Has anybody a service manual? Particularly I am interested in the MB-1 hardware, the official CIDI cable wiring (may the MB-1 only need a crossed wire somewhere?) and the pedal board (has anybody dumped the eprom?).
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