pianokeyjoe

Saludos @Blueangelo! I am from Puerto Rico!! No tenemos mas informacion lamentablemente. Vos tenes mas informacion que nadie en el caso de que vos tenes el catalogo con modelo, fotos y descripcion la cual comparando a lo que hoy en dia existe, nos puede dar buenos clues a lo que es este HT-X10 y sus caracteristicas. Lo que puedo decir por cierto es que yo vi este modelo en un catalogo Casio 1991-92 en Ingles y me gusto tanto que corte las photos de este teclado para hacer un poster colage de todos los teclados que yo deseaba. Yo Tan solo tenia 16 de edad en 1991-92. So mi memoria ahora a los 47 de este teclado no es lo mas agudo pero si lo recuerdo en catalogo y lo estuve buscando en este Forum desde cuando me hice miembro de el hace un tiempo atras. Lamentablemente no se si este Casio fue real o solo un concepto de producto futuro para linia Casio 1992 " Tonebank con sintetisador" o si realmente salio al mercardo. Esperamos las fotos mas detallas con pura ansiedad y anticipacion!

Thankyou @IanB! I will take it apart again in a few days and take photos yes. Especially since I want to fix it. The unit is sounding like it is not getting enough power but the LED is bright so I do not know. From my past experiences with all things Casio and fleamarkets is that who ever had it used a wrong power supply with center positive polarity and the thing would not turn on so they wiggled the heck out of the jack trying to force it to work and then gave up and in the process broke the solder pad off the center negative jack.As soon as I put a wire from the jack to the next solder point on the PCB, the unit sprang to life since I do have that very RARE Casio branded 7.5vdc 600mA PSU. But the keyboard sounds bad. My guess is the main capacitors which are electrolytic, have been worn down. Remember in the Forum thread for the Casio CT310, I mention I had a CT310 that had a broken power cap, and I replaced it with a different one of the same voltage? That when I turned on the CT310, the volume on the CT310 would fade IN every time I turned it on? Same thing is happening here only it is not sounding right unlike the CT310, and it is still too low a volume. If I could post mp3 files here I could upload a sound example. I do not have video equipment for a youtube video.

I just bought my second ever PT20 from ebay. This one is a as is for parts unit. It was not turning on as per the description. I fixed the issue that prevented from turning on:(input jack solder pad broke from the circuit board due to some one plugging and wiggling the plug around to force it to work). There is a small crack on the keyboard section of the control/keyboard PCB that only killed one key(middle D). But the real issue is that even though I have power to the unit and the unit is ON and making sound, the sound is all wrong. It sounds like slow attack and short decay for ALL sounds including the bass notes of the chord section, and the beats sound like arcade game blips with down pitching arpeggio(8bit laser sound?). Does anyone have a schematic? I am sick to my stomach right now so every 10 minutes I have to attend to my stomach and can not concentrate on the Casio so I had to close it up and give up for now. But while I recover, I would like to know if any one else has come across this issue maybe on a PT1 or such keyboard? It sounds like if the unit was running on dying batteries or like if you were playing it while turning it off. Seems like there is not enough voltage going to the unit type issue. Shame I sold my first one since it was in good shape and now I regret it. From what I am looking at and from what I can hear, this model seems to be the flagship version of the PT1 like form factor PT keyboards since it packs ALOT into the same small sharp edged boxy case of the PT1 line! I almost think Casio could have made a CZ-PT in this SAME small case lol(I had such a dream once about such a keyboard). I have talked about this model before in this forum but I only went on my memory of what I once had years ago in 2010.. It is 2022 and I see this thing has ALOT more features than I remember! I would love to get one that works or make this one work. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thankyou for the mention and for the big pictures! Ok, I cringed when I saw the top of the PCM and that big section of the keybed with rust.. that is battery acid rust. and then there is the punchline... the Power Amp IC chip which has brown discoloration all over the top.. That is the LA4120? I think that is the bad componant.. The top of that LOOKS burnt.. I mean that top label is silver white in most normal cases of these Casios. That usually get a heatsink on some cases too. Yours is burnt, and that is where you get your audio output from. So it is NOT a logic IC that is out cause you said you could hear like buzzing when you pressed keys no? Like there is a hum that changes with key presses.. You seriously need to look at the schematic and check the amp INPUT pin with something that can do audio like the mic input of a cassette recorder or your computer(set the mic input to ON or to monitor)and take the other end of the 3.5mm cable stripped and hook the ground to ground on the Casio, and the live or hot mic input lead to the amplifier INPUT pin and then play the keyboard keys. Make sure to turn the mic level up to midway and the keyboard to max volume. Mmm.. btw, Have you checked the volume control to see if it is defective? That would be an even easier check. You short out the pins of the volume where the max volume would be(find the common on the POT and use a wire to touch from the common(wiper), to either of the other pins on the POT, while pressing keys or using a rubber dome to activate a key whilst it is apart). USE the 6VDC adapter to power it do not use batteries. I fixed a Yamaha PSR11 this way. It has a defective volume slider but I have none to replace so I just shorted the volume to MAX. Try those things and see. I doubt there is a LA4120 for sale new now but ya never know.

@CasioForest I read your post and I waited for the punchline and I got it.. Battery leak damage to the circuit board directly behind the battery compartment from what you added to your post. You are not going to diagnose components if battery alkali has already eaten through some circuit traces. As @IanBhas asked, we need you to take good close up pics of the circuit board in the areas where you SEE the damage in order to better help you. No schematic or manual is going to help this situation for now. DO NOT power the unit on again, until the battery leak damage is remedied and you have carefully cleaned off the battery acid(alkali)off the board inside. I was told baking soda and vinegar. Google the best option for you as I have tried both and at least for me I only had to use vinegar(white distilled) to clean my Yamaha PSS480 and that worked soo, mileage may vary. Simple fact, I buy Casios second hand at fleamarkets in Florida and the ONE thing I hate is when they left batteries in the darn things. That is the bane of my Casio existence.. batteries.. Cause they leak and ruin all the fun. BTW, I reread your post and seems you did quite a bit of troubleshooting already. Now you say you see burn marks on the component side of the PCB? Near WHAT components? Also your voltage readings for the most part are correct for a 6VDC powered instrument(Casio PT1,VL1 are 6VDC). I am betting you have a eaten trace or bad discrete component like one of the resistors or diodes. But without pics it is only speculation as this seems to be a situation that DOES show visible signs of distress, it is just now a matter of getting more eyes on the prize to help ya. I say a eaten trace only because some traces LOOK like they are ok but are indeed slightly darker shade of green or black gray in color.. indeed very close and careful inspection will reveal something.

If that Tascam is still there say, ooh tomorrow? GO GIT IT LOL! I had 2 of them and one got stolen in 2017. It is a great unit and is VERY compatible. I do not know about Win10 but on Windows Xp SP2 it worked absolutely great. I reckon in Windows 7 it would work great too. As a matter of fact, using a P4 or Core 2 duo with XP pro and that Tascam you will be aces!

@IanBReally!? Wow lol! I guess I never really thought about it for Casio about the midi dump.. I always seen the option on menus in synths and drum machines but never actually went through with trying to DUMP anything. Wow I have alot of work ahead of me lol! Now with YAMAHA, which I DO midi bulk dump backups, The bulk dump function has a menu entry for it even on the old PSS480 that you press the button and it starts sending data and the LED display blinks or cycles through segments until it completes or fails. I always had to set my external sequencer to start recording and then I quickly press the dump send on the keyboard synth. Or in the case of a PC setup, I set the midi sequencer to record and then press the send or dump on the synth. And now with USB and Windows 10.. LOL, this just gets better.. Well if I get a Windows 10 machine preinstalled that can accept my midi sport 1x1 interface, I will download your software and use the system just for editing my CT/CZ synths.

Ok! Yes! So like I said about my YAMAHA AN200/DX200 groove boxes.. I had to use a specific older YAMAHA branded software sequencer just to make the transmission work, but I was able to use a USB midi interface with Windows 7 called Midisport 1x1. So your use of MIDIQUEST and the VZ1 instrument file(which I can not state enough, you need)will do the trick if you can use an older midi interface like the MIDISPORT 1x1 which is a fully midi compliant usb 1.1 device. It requires drivers in Windows though and I never used win10 before so that presents its own issues. Do not use Midi ox to send data to your keyboard.. it will not work. I tried and failed EVERY TIME for those 2 units. It really IS a question of finding the right combo for the instruments. I have several older computers(MAC and PC) that can use an old Soundblaster live card with the 15 pin joystick midi port and a 15 pin game port to midi cable from Creative that IS full on midi compliant. So yeah, maybe time to dust off one of those systems of yours. Use Windows 7 if you decide on USB midi.. If you are using Soundblaster gameport midi, use Windows 98se as Windows XP and 2K have issues with sysex midi sometimes.. Not always, but sometimes(right when you need it most right?).

@RidleySo you are having issues with SENDING a sysex TO the VZ1, not FROM the VZ1? I am still not getting what you are saying about loading/transmitting from the VZ1. If you are trying to SEND a sysex TO the VZ1 and it is crapping out, then as @Jokeyman123stated, it could be a issue with the Computer and USB midi rig being too fast for the VZ1 to handle the incoming data. Now you need to set you VZ1 midi receive and midi transmit channels to 1(midi channel ONE). Set the computer to midi channel ONE as well. Then try.

Ok, so it DOES do sysex unlike Casio CZ... Well in that case please check your settings as per my above instructions. I think there is something simple that is being overlooked.

Hmm, I DO have this keyboard and the CZ3000 and CT6500. From what @IanBhad said about the CT6500, the Casio may not accept sysex like other brands, and does it's dumping and loading on a per patch only basis. Another user here is having a similar issue with his VZ1..

I think we both may be wrong with the VZ1.. Like the CZ1 and FZ1, I think.. not fully sure, but I think the OLD Casio synths did NOT respond to SYSEX only YAMAHA and those other synths you mentioned. Casio used midi bulk dump per patch? Though doesn't the VZ1 have a floppy drive?? Man I wish I had NOT sold my VZ1 back in 2005. @IanBCan you confirm all this? The VZ1 is like the other Casio synths in that they did NOT accept sysex but could dump it? And WHAT can the VZ1 accept for loading patches from the net?

Hmm, ok, so far your rig checks out and like you said, you have success with the other keys. Check your VZ1 battery and make sure you did not end up with a leaky battery. You say you can RECEIVE sysex? So you mean You download a VZ1 patch from the internet and you can SEND it TO the VZ1 and it loads successfully into temp ram, and then you can SAVE the patch to a user location with no issues? If that is so, then you may need to do some research on the max baud rate you can set the VZ1 midi transmit(MIDI OUT PORT). Also check that in midi options in the VZ1 you have turned OFF the midi filters for EVERYTHING. For both the MIDI RECEIVE(MIDI IN PORT), and MIDI TRANSMIT(MIDI OUT PORT). Then set your daw to record on the midi same midi channel you want to SEND a midi bulk dump(old term for sysex), from the VZ to the DAW. You may need to set your VZ1 to omni mode to send on ALL channels at once cause I suspect the VZ1 may only use one mixed channel for sysex like Midi channel 16 or 11 or 1. I am assuming the VZ1 is 8 part multitimberal? Check those filters most of all.. Now if the issue is that you are trying to LOAD a patch from the Computer TO the VZ1? Then that IS a different issue and without me being in front of your rig, I can not really help there as in that case, you have to set your DAW midi OUT settings accordingly. ALSO, some DAW apps will NOT transmit sysex correctly to some gear! IE My YAMAHA DX200/AN200 groove boxes from 2001 will NOT send or receive midi bulk dump correctly to the Computer and receive the same from the computer with some Midi sequencer apps. I had to find an old YAMAHA branded sequencer app to make it work. Now using Midiquest midi bulk librarian app you need the VZ1 instrument def file which you can download from the internet free from what I can remember from user group sites.. For the VZ1 to RECEIVE a sysex message correctly, you need to set the MIDI IN/RECEIVE sections of your VZ1 correctly to receive ALL data. And on the DAW on the PC, you need to make sure the midi PORT, channel, etc are correct. In Midiquest, the VZ1 def file should map all that out for you..

WHAT kind of USB-Midi interface are you using and what OS are you using?

@CYBERYOGI =CO=Windler LOL WOW!!! THANKYOU!! Weeeeeeeee!! I am happy now! Ok! Well well, Irfanview! In WIndows that is my only preferred image viewer and GIMP and Inkscape for editing and making images and drawing. Nice! Well sir, you have Catapulted decades of searching and asking about this mystery Casio, forward that along with @Blueangelo, who posted the thread by pure chance, my search feels almost coming to its glorious conclusion.. Now to find these keyboards in person and buy both...

@CYBERYOGI =CO=Windler WOW!!!! How did you read that tiny writing?? It is Spanish by the way. Ok, Here is what I remember from when I had the catalog back in 1992. It DID have Velocity and Channel Aftertouch(the same as the HT6000), The single keypad for sounds/beats is not so uncommon as you know you have a button for tones and a button for styles.. The LCD was backlit with that Blue Timex Indiglo color we see on may Casio keyboard in 2022. The unit is a 3-way Speaker system consisting of a Woofer, midrange and tweeter. The look resembled the Bubble radio boomboxes of the early 1990s, and this was a synthesizer that was the successor to the HT6000/HT3000 line. However.. and this part I have struggled with since I do not have this catalog, There were TWO keyboards like this in my catalog! One was the HT-X10 and the other may have been HT-X20??(73 or 76 note version with a slightly different shape overall but still kinda bubbly like the HT-X10). From what I can gather the sound source was a MIX of the SD and PCM sound sources which we see in later models(not SD sadly but PCM). It was I think, a hybrid like what was VERY common with YAMAHA Workstations of the same time period(YAMAHA SY77/99 which used AFM and AWM2). I think the HT-X20 may have had a sequencer and may have been 16 tracks or was it 8? Either way, Yeah we need some one with this Catalog to help us out lol! @Blueangelo, we are asking you? Bigger pictures and more of them of this/both keyboards? I still do not see how you read the print on this picture, I tried to enlarge it and it is all pixels not possible to read. @CYBERYOGI =CO=Windler, you have this Catalog too??

I must have missed that little detail in all the discussion, but I do not doubt my failing eyes would have missed it.. You say you changed the ribbon cable to the keybed and THEN the issues started? Hmm, check the ribbon cable for continuity for each of the strands(should be about 14 to 16 strands). Best way to check is with a digital multi meter with the sound setting(or with the -->I-- symbol setting. IF you should NOT hear sound when you test each end of the ribbon cable strands, then bad cable. Next if you DO hear sound and cable is good, is check the solder points for both the keybed and the main board were you soldered. Though I suspect this older board used the ribbon cable PLUG on the mainboard and soldered on ribbon cable on the keyboard contact board? IF so, then unplug the ribbon and check the inside of the plug socket on the mainboard for dust and the ribbon for dust or obstructions. Now I reread the post more clearly.. Sorry. You changed the cable FIRST, then you recapped the keyboard and has new issue? Check that ribbon again. WHAT is the NEW PROBLEM? That would be very helpful to know in order to further assist..

The first gen Casio Tonebank keyboards from 1988 had that issue of not transposing low enough and just wrapping around to the lowest octave on the keyboard again even if used as a midi tone module, etc. Examples are:MT240,MT540. These only have 49 keys, and as such you can not transpose lower than the 49 keys and also did not respond to velocity from an external midi keyboard or digital piano(in my case).

@CYBERYOGI =CO=WindlerLOL! LOL! This my good sir, is the Bubble shaped mystery Casio keyboard from a 1992 Casio Catalog I have been going on about since I joined this forum! It IS indeed or WAS indeed a CASIO and not a rebranded Chinese product. In 1992 there were a bit of nicer CT and CTK models released with the "synth" engine which allows you to "edit" the tones on the SOUNDBANK rather than settling for just presets. The CTK1000, CT670,CTK611,CT700,,MT750,etc, all have some feature of that sound editing. That CTK1000 synth engine that never really took off? Yes, it looks like this HT-X10(and the bigger 76 note HT-X20??), had "CONCEPTS" for a line of keyboards that 1992 market would bring. Sadly, I fear this was just that.. a CONCEPT keyboard. Yamaha did the same thing with the V80 which eventually became the SY85 which was not as cool looking. I have been waiting for an answer with bated breath since I saw this thread, but sadly right now the only one that can give us a better picture and more details is @Blueangelosince he has one of these rare catalogs and thus holds the err um "KEY" to at least unlocking some of the mystery. I am pretty obsessive with Casio keyboards of old, so I KNOW, this thing attracted me very much when I was a teen and I even posted the catalog pages of it on my wall of gear I wish I could have, etc. There was even a rare pop song I heard back then that I liked and I would look at my poster of these keyboards and hear the song and correlate one with the other. Sadly this keyboard nor the pop song exist anymore... Funny, it is 2022 and you would think there would be MORE info not LESS... The hunt continues!! But thankyou for chiming in! I was starting to lose heart here!

The jack is a issue with the jack lead for the left side solder is cracked. Just open up the unit plug the headphones in and carefully put that pressure and you should see the solder joint on that side lift up and settle back down. IF you do see that you are in luck! Just get a solder iron for fine electronics, and some electronics solder(not lead free!!), and solder down that joint. The volume is dust issue. Since the Casio sliders have grease inside them a simple dusting or vacuum will NOT help. Ironically the slider issue is more of a pain to fix. You need to get electronics contact cleaner(NOT ELECTRIC), and spray in there and carefully move the slider to the LOW volume setting, then go fetch a small q-tip and some alcohol and carefully clean out the inside of the slider doing twisting motions and carefully pulling the q tip out to reveal dust, and old grease grime. Keep doing this then move the slider to MAX volume and do the other end the same way. Now you can spray contact cleaner again and move the slider back and forth slowly. Then you need some ELECTRO-CONDUCTIVE contact grease to spray into the slider and move the slider back and forth slowly. Should fix your issue. IF all else fails, you can always try and find a new replacement slider but then that would be a nightmare take apart job.. I am instructing based on recent experience with what NOT to do with bad or scratchy sliders on keyboards!

Hmm.. how are these IC chips going bad without circuit bending? I have my 701 that so far(fingers crossed)works but look very ugly and has a broken key but other than that it is working. I am starting to suspect the failures are due originally to some discreet components or power supply rail issue causing an upswing in +vcc on those chips to cause them to fail like that.. I do have several Casio models with built in AC power mains supply in them, and this is starting to worry me..

May 29 2022 Mystery Keyboard update!!! A new member @Blueangelojust posted a rare Classic Casio Catalog find from the early 1990s! The Bubble advanced synthesis workstation Casio keyboard I have been looking for and asking about but no one has been able to answer about! He posted a picture of the page of a Casio Catalog from his collection of Casio Catalogs which features the very keyboard I have been seeking since I last saw it in a catalog from Casio back in 1992! May I present to you: Casio HT-X10! Check his thread out for the picture! So it seems that when you least expect it, things you seek and can not find, will come to YOU, amen!!

Por si acaso vos solo hablas castellano, Yo estado buscando este teclado desde que lo vi ironicamente, en un catalogo CASIO del 1991-92? y por cierto se veia asi estillo bubble pero bien avancado para lo que existia en 1992 en el mercado. Necesito verlo mas de cerca y ver todos los dato escritos en la pagina para poder circular esto por internet y por fin ver si alguien ademas de nosotros, lo ha visto o lo ha tocado? Realmente me sorprendio este poste hoy! Bien venido a Casio Forum!! Pero que venida che!!

By golly! I think we found someone alive who seen the mystery BUBBLE Casio keyboard from 1992 I was looking for and asking about lol!!!! @Blueangelo, I really have to know, what country are you in? Man o man! I have all but given up on finding this strange mystery Casio! No one here could answer me lol! And here you come on an unexpected day and BAM!! Bubble Casio with advanced features, and back lit LCD, etc.. from 1992 Catalog yes?Could you PLEASE please, upload more pics as I KNOW there are more models from this Catalog. YES, this keyboard was never released in the USA as far as I know cause while I did get the Casio catalog back in 1992, it seemed to be mostly of the TONEBANK series keyboards and thus I thought this was a tonebank board too but with more advanced features.. If you could upload a bigger more full picture or pics of the whole thing full frontal and then the other pictures of it that was from the side angle. I may be still thinking of yet ANOTHER model that is very close to this one.. VERY CLOSE.. So close I can taste the plastic lol! You made my day!!

Looking at the number pad it makes sense the CZ230S uses numbers 00 to 99. And that would translate to program change 00 to 99 on any midi controller or software that uses the traditional numbering scheme of 0-9 as the digits and NOT the 1-8 number scheme of old Roland or old Korg. or old Kawai. @IanBThankyou for letting me know. Oh I wish I had the CZ230s. I almost did recently in an ebay auction but more pressing things came up that I had to use the money on.. It went a little high anyways so no loss there. I too own the CZ5000 and 3000. They are just impossibly buried under boxes of other keyboards in my future studio room being used as a temp storage facility while I remodel the house.