dwf2008 Posted December 19, 2019 Share Posted December 19, 2019 I have recently acquired a wk-1630 which is in like new condition but which has sat unused for a very long time. Some of the keys will randomly fail to turn off when the key is released. The keys return ok but the note off switch fails to register. I thought I might open it up and try to clean or lubricate the switches but first was wondering how difficult of a job this would be. I don’t want to get in over my head so any advice would be appreciated. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
- T - Posted December 19, 2019 Share Posted December 19, 2019 Typically, when an older keyboard exhibits the malady you describe, it indicates that the rubber in the dimpled rubber contact strips under the keys has begun to deteriorate from oxidation, so the contact dimples stay compressed after the key is released. This would require the rubber strips to be replaced, not just "cleaned". This CAN be done, but it is certainly not for the technically faint of heart. Hopefully our resident keybed rebuilding guru, Jokeyman123 will join in here and share some of his hard earned wisdom on this topic with you Certainly, this is not to sound glib at all, but is offered as food for thought for the future. Whenever I read about situations like this, I can not help but think that, sadly, you just found out why it was for sale to begin with. To avoid such unpleasant surprises when purchasing used keyboards, always "play" them first, regardless of what they "look like". Check every key and every button. If there are problems, pass them by. If you can not "try" them, pass them by. In today's world, repairs can easily exceed the cost of a new equivalent keyboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jokeyman123 Posted December 19, 2019 Share Posted December 19, 2019 Thanks for the compliment T! I agree-sounds like the rubber contact strips that sit over the printed circuit boards under the keys have deteriorated and are not bouncing back away from the contacts underneath. I cannot detail any particular recommendations since I am not familiar with the WK1630 so not sure how hard or easy it would be to take this apart. I know one thing is certain-you must get the exact right rubber contacts for this keyboard. If the contacts are not exactly designed for the WK1630, none of your keys will work. The alignment of the rubber pads on top as these contact little carbon contacts underneath have to be positioned precisely or nothing will work. Look on the web for the companies that sell used Casio keyboard parts, there are several. but due diligence-you must find out what these parts are with no room for error. And of course-the tough part is taking the keyboard apart and knowing what to look for. if you are not experienced at this-I wouldn't recommend it. if the keyboard is worth it to you, find someone near you who is technically/electronically skilled to have a go at it, or see if Casio tech support will accept it for repair-as an older Casio they may decline to do so. if the rest of the functions work-I hate to relegate something as technically involved as a keyboard to the junkpile, part of my reason for repairing many things-and I have tech training and experience. Never ever, work on anything like this unless the electric supply is disconnected, including batteries-even then, capacitors can hold a charge that can give you a shock-and you could cause more damage than you ever though tpossible if you don't know your way around electronics-and computers. I had posted pics here of tearing apart my CTK6200, XW-P1 and PX350 but unfortunately I don't know if looking at these posts with pictures will help you much, except to give you a rough idea of the work involved. One dis-assembly that seems to follow a pattern with Casio and many other keyboards when opening up.... Generally-the endcaps must somehow be removed, then additional screws under those caps along the keyboard sideframe might need removal. Underneath-there have been rows of keys that hold the top control board or boards in place in order to access electronic circuits, speakers, etc. these screws are-usually-in different rows underneath than another set of screws that fasten the entire keyboard assembly to the rest of the keyboard. My Equinox even has a hinge to allow the entire top panel to fold up for servicing the insides-too bad their out of business and no parts anymore!!!! To repair the the key parts in question-if it is the little rubber assembly strips-you will have to take all that apart to get under the keys.You can see-it is not a task for someone who has not done this before. I wish i could help more, but if you are ambitious, can self-learn, this might be an excellent long-term skill to acquire. it is no joke that finding skilled techs who know their way around these very specialized keyboards are very hard to find-just about anywhere from what I have found out. Much of what I have learned has been self-taught even with training, alot of patience and much research. and my brain and hands still work, as of today anyway! And if you can troubleshoot, you might find yourself very much in demand. I hide alot, but even then people find me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harpon Posted March 7, 2020 Share Posted March 7, 2020 The WK-1250 I recently bought had keys that weren't sounding and one sounding very loudly- None were stuck, but it needed a cleaning. I took the sections off under the keys- that wasn't that hard- the top did NOT have to come off. I found it dirty and even two squashed ladybugs under a couple of keys. When I wiped off the contact points with paper towels damp with window cleaner and put it back together, they all came back to life as normal. if the keys are sticking, the rubber strips may not be deteriorated- just dirty. I wish I had made a video of my repair- done in about an hour, but there are good ones on youtube. You might want to try some Armour All type, wheel protector vinyl /rubber stuff on the strips if there is any rough wear- that both cleans and lubricates. There were about 5 or six rubber strips under the keys of the board below- besides the two squashed ladybugs! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jokeyman123 Posted March 7, 2020 Share Posted March 7, 2020 No-no-no! Don't put Armor-All or any chemical anywhere near the rubber strips-what you can't see can ruin your keys. Unless this keyboard's design is completely different from any other Casio or other brand keyboard I've had to repair-there are carbon contacts inside those rubber boots-it is all too easy to contaminate these with-well just about anything if it gets in under these rubber strips. Once contaminated, it is almost impossible to restore these which i why if you disassemble at that level-you will see the rubber strips are pretty tightly sealed to the circuit boards generally. I and many other keyboard repair techs found this out the hard way. Even if the rubber strips are tightly sealed against the IC boards under the keys-amazing how stuff can seep in under these-and these are the electrical contacts that make the keys work. You were correct to clean this with window cleaner-alcohol based might even ruin the carbon contacts if it dries and leaves a residue-I've experienced that too. Plain water is probably the only thing I'd use to clean around the rubber strips that will not risk contaminating these and making keys fail. And excess grease used around the keys also has been a terrible problem with many-not just Casio keyboards as once this seeps into the rubber contacts-these are pretty much ruined unless you are very lucky and have infinite patience to try to decontaminate the carbon contacts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harpon Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 Yes- you are correct and thought about it later- I might cheat some on the strips carefully if in fact the had deteriorated, but not on the contacts though- this might never be really necessary. But hey, I'm someone who puts oil at the bridge contact points when I tune my Baldwin Hamilton Studio upright- which gets me extremely dumped on at the piano forum. Then again I'm not the one who designed the metal-file like casting there way back in 1980. Newer pianos went to smooth castings, but if I'm stressing old strings I want lubrication and protection for old strings- I'm never near the pinblock or let it travel down to felts. Sorry to stray off topic- you are right- I'd only consider it on really pitted stiff rubber as a last resort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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