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i bought a vintage dg-20 but can't keep it powered on


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originally it wouldn't get any juice at all due to a corroded dc power barrel. i replace that today and now when i switch it on the light blinks red for a second before powering off again. apparently it's common that transistor T3 malfunctions (and it's only there for a power saving mode) so i bypassed that, but still no luck. I also sprayed contact cleaner into the switch. any other ideas? the service manual is here:

http://www.warningwillrobinson.com.au/manuals/Casio%20DG10%20DG20%20service%20manual.pdf

edit: it stopped lighting up altogether again. how can i test this switch?

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Corroded DC power barrel or the power jack on the DG20 itself? Check your battery compartment for such obvious corrosion as well. If you see that in the battery compartment you can bet the inside electronics maybe corroded by the leaking batteries that were in the unit. Now the biggest issue is that most modern batteries being made in Mainland China, the quality and volatility of the battery chemicals inside are sub par and very dangerous too. I have SEEN it first hand and wow, scary! So you may have a dead DG on your hands. Check inside for corrosion on the circuit traces on the boards inside. Report back

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i'm talking about the barrel jack on the dg20 itself, i bought a replacement off of amazon and soldered it in. there were old corroded batteries inside that i removed from the unit but the circuitboards inside don't look all that bad.. would a picture be useful?

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Ay ay ay.. Ok, yeah I fear damage from the old batteries. Pictures can help to point out anything you may miss. I can tell you that even clear battery alkali film on the circuits WILL cause trouble even if you can not see obvious issue. The boards do have to be cleaned but I myself still do not know what proper mixture of stuff is needed to clean battery alkali and acid off circuit boards to bring our precious Casios back from the dead.

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Ok, remove the main board which you showed us which is still fixed down to the plastic casing, and check underneath that big board for discolored traces and corrosion. That board is the one near or on top of the battery compartment from the video shots I saw. So the DG20 seems to have 2 bigger boards. The loose one that is smaller and has a reddish card board on the back of it, also needs to be checked. You will need to remove the red card board to see if the traces on that one are corroded or not. The no power thing really is a dog of a situation as I have 2 PT20 units that while they do power on, no sound or bad sound. All due to batteries leaking inside so yeh, do not take anything for granted. Also seems like with my PT20, you may have shorting at the auto power off circuit or if, there is a p-reset circuit on the DG20, that circuit may be tripping due to acid/alkali. At this point, it does not hurt to check.

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