Jokeyman123

So Kawai and Casio are the same company? That's news to me! If the connectors were the same, there would be no mismatch in size. You will have to get a schematic for the Kawai ES520 pedal connector port if possible, to see what each connector pin does for all 6 pins, and then do the same for the Casio pedal. If you study the older posts here, you will see it will take alot of work and rewiring, and in the end the Casio pedal might not work with the Kawai anyway. The Kawai is not a cheap digital piano, I'm surprised it doesn't come with its own 3-pedal unit.

Could you post a picture (.png or .jpg) showing the damage? Might be hard to make a 3D model because of the length of the neck. Seeing the details of the damage would be a big help, and the type of plastic used for the neck, I assume its some kind of plastic.

OK.

Ah yes, Spike Jones. wonderful. Me big fan. Shows what a drummer/bandleader can accomplish if one is twisted enough....I believe Zappa might have been a bit influenced. Zappa also started musical life as a drummer. I think the shockwaves must do something to one's brain-channels it into something else, like sleeping on a bare boxspring without the mattress.🤫

Doesn't sound right to me. The XW and WK's I play have similar key designs and I've never heard a noise like this. Almost sounds like something is stuck in the key inside, or something is loose. Especially if this is the only key, (you didn't say) it is definitely not sounding like a normal key noise. If all the keys sound like this, I would return it. No Casio I've ever played sounded like this, unless there was something broken or stuck inside. I would contact the seller, let them know. Almost sounds like something got inside the key assembly, maybe during packing or shipping, and is stuck in there.

Which specific keyboard are you asking about? And do you want to do this with only the keyboard and without a computer, or with a computer connected? Nach welcher speziellen Tastatur fragen Sie? Und möchten Sie dies nur mit der Tastatur und ohne Computer oder mit angeschlossenem Computer tun?

Hard to say from this distance-I have this schematic, one of the better I've seen for a Casio. From that description and yours, error sound seems to be described as a single tone vs. a chord, the single tone being the error code. and since it is triggered by a keypress-it is probably detecting an error in the key scanning process which unfortunately could be as simple as one of the key contacts shorting or not having continuity, or as complex as a circuit malfunctioning from the IC's and circuits responsible for scanning the matrix. Since there is so much damage but you have been successful in getting all keys but 4 to work-seems like all the other functions are working? I would look again at your carbon strip in that section. Not too difficult to get a new matching strip of rubber contacts, see if that works. These carbon contacts are terribly sensitive to contamination and since it is only 4 keys and not an entire octave or more-hopefully the scanning matrix is not at fault, this can manifest as all the same notes being dead through the octaves, skipping depending upon the matrix design, used to be 8 at a time not sure with newer keys. The carbon can become non-conductive-lose its conductive properties but still appear intact and clean. I have used white vinegar and plain water with mixed success on these carbon pads and I would try some simple continuity tests with a multimeter-or simple resistance tests-see if the contacts have retained their electrical conductivity. One probe goes on the carbon contact-then hit a trace down the line from that-might have to scrape a little epoxy off a trce to bare the copper in the trace to do that. 4 keys together also suggest a possible break in a trace on the IC boards-could be close to these keys-or a trace much further-you would have to do some visual circuit tracing to see if this is the problem, and it might be. Again, dilute white vinegar with its mild acid will clean electrical contacts without doing any harm-I would keep any other chemical cleaners away from the carbon or copper contacts below. will only make things worse, I speak from experience. Judging from the service manual, I don't think there is an easier way around restoring this-on a positive spin, these older Casio key assemblies are pretty impressive, the CDP's are pretty sturdy, even compared to the newer Casios and other and depending upon your patience and time, I'd give it another go, but that's me!

Absolutely-one aspect of synthesized music technology that attracted me-I might not have access to an orchestra or band members to hear my compositions for real acoustic instruments-but I could (to varying degrees of success) somewhat approximate what a musical ensemble might sound like. You might want to start studying "sampling" technology which is a complex subject, even the best 'sampled" instruments are not entirely successful in duplicating what a real sax, trumpet, bagpipe, oboe or any other instrument might really sound like. Several music technology companies, such as Yamaha and Alesis used a technique called "physical modelling" which is a synthesized attempt to recreate the exact "physical" characteristics of a wind or brass instrument-what its shape, size and design are. This too is not entirely successful IMO as I have at least one "physical modelling" synthesizer/workstation and have worked with this form of duplicating acoustic instruments. A human being is still the most remarkable of instruments-capable of creating amazing music with the simplest of instruments, electronic or otherwise. See my comment about Paddy Maloney below. One other idea you might wish to research-soundfonts-same idea as a "virtual" instrument-for playing on your computer-another pretty old well-documented way of trying to re-create acoustic instruments with a keyboard and computer. For example-I have installed a soundfont simply called "giant"-a collection of acoustic instrument samples which I use to play midi files on my computers-and also converted this soundfont to one of my music synthesizers to play from the keys-has one of the most realistic soprano sax sounds I've found for a sampled instrument-I play soprano sax, I know what the real one sounds like and had been trying to find a keyboard version of this instrument for electronic compositions. There are many commercially available collections of sampled acoustic instruments on Cd's DVD's, some rather expensive and which are used to score films, background music for other productions and most of the "travelogue" videos you can view online as streaming media and in professional or hobbyist music studios. If done carefully and cleverly, can sound fairly close to real instrument ensembles, although I have yet to hear a major orchestral work done with sampled instruments/keyboards that does not sooner or later betray its digital origins if one listens carefully enough. Again, just my opinion. You seem to have a perhaps Celtic or Irish background based on your posts-I have twice had the privilege of hearing the Chieftains in person-all acoustic instruments. I heard Paddy Maloney performing alone on stage in NYC I think it was in Radio City Music Hall. The Chieftains had just played a rousing repertoire of several of their ensemble pieces when suddenly the house lights went out, a spotlight shone on Paddy alone with his Uileann pipes. He played the most beautiful piece of music I have ever heard. His sound enveloped the entire Music Hall and completely immersed the audience with a sound unlike anything I've ever heard and ever will, and I've been to some of the best venues to hear everything from the NY Philharmonic to some of the best rock, folk and jazz groups over the last 50 years or so. Paddy won, all by himself.

You don't really need any special program except your Internet browser. since you are already here at the forum, all you have to do is find the file you want in the "downloads" section, look for the specific keyboard category you need, open that category, look for the specific file and click on it when you see the "download" icon/label next to or below the file description. Each browser has a slightly different design to illustrate that it is downloading anything. Firefox, Chrome whatever you use for your Internet browser is already designed to download any program you want. Typically-all you have to do is click on the file you want to download-with Windows usually a double-click-then there will be a "progress bar" or small clock-like circle showing the progress of the downloaded file-many of the Casio files here are very small, and will download almost instantly, so you might not even notice that you did download something. Search for your computer's "download" folder--not sure if a MAC has a download folder or something similar. and your file or files will be there.

Never wasted, take a chance. Plant a seed, grow a tree...or another musician!

Also interested. I play bodhran, have a set of Highland pipes and a few chanters, but purchased from a reputable Ireland located vendor. Important to get quality with authentic instruments. There are sounds that evoke a bodhran and concertina if you have the right Casio keyboards. Another idea-for emulating Irish and Celtic folk instruments-if you are adept with computer music technology-there are 'soundfonts" for many ethnic instruments which can be downloaded and installed into a computer, and performed/recorded with software. soundfonts are simply samples of specific instruments or groups of instruments designed to be played through a software program. I use Coolsoft, a virtual midi program designed to work with the windows operating system and very simple to install and use. Although I prefer using real acoustic instruments specifically (wish I had a set of Uilleann pipes but are costly!) or simulated ethnic instruments in my keyboards or modules, i have used so-called "virtual" instruments to play back midi files or to record compositions using soundfonts and the right software with a properly connected keyboard-or midi wind controller. Sounds more complex than it is. if interested-post here or PM me and I will help regarding the technical end of it. If not, sorry Brad for stepping in too deep!

Tom-exactly right. A subtle concept but it makes for a little more flexibility (IMO) when shifting in and out of performance/sequence/tone mode in that I can quickly "audition" a tone in an existing performance or sequence temporarily before I "write" it, and also when I am creating or editing an performance or sequence with the mixer. And all these changes must be saved as "user" performances/sequences/mixes. I think what confused many is that there was an expectation that whatever changes one made to tones/mixer/sequencer/performance settings would automatically be "saved" within an existing factory version of any of these, or even a user slot without writing/storing the edits-every time I shift from one mode to another-as Mike Martin's first important reminder was way back-always "write" whatever you are doing before you go from one mode to another if you expect it to be there when you come back to it. Honestly I'm sort of posting this to remind myself! The more I compare all the new technology-the more i still like the XW-P1.

Revisiting this series of posts for 2 reasons. 1) Nobody actually verified that they had "written"-saved the performance-and the sequence in question. When switching from performance to performance, nothing will be saved unless you hit "write", name the new performance and hit enter and "yes" when asked if you are sure you want to save this. One of the first things I learned from watching Mike Martin's videos was the concept of always "writing", even the smallest of edits you are making, in any mode, from tones to performances. 2) I only just reviewed this procedure from "funnzie"-one of his videos very quickly describes the relationship between saving/writing the sequencer and the performance. After all these years this stlil was not clear until I watched and listened to funnzie's video several times. here it is in a simple nutshell... Whatever you create in the sequencer-"write" it-immediately. Now, if you want that sequence to be saved as part of your performance-do not change to a different sequence-change directly to performance mode-and now you must also write-or re-write/save into a NEW performance. All this must be done using "user" memory slots, not factory preset performances or sequences-although one can call up a factory sequence-and go to performance mode, and "write" (save) the new performance, but now your performance will have that last selected sequence, not you newly created or edited sequence. Why is it critical to go directly from your sequence to performance mode to write everything? Because when you call up a user performance-it will automatically select the last sequence you called up in sequence mode, and then you will save the performance with that sequence already inserted. And unless you save both the sequence and the performance together using "write" the 2 will not be connected in your new performance.

Just a few musing thoughts. There is a goldtone XW-P1 for sale now online, looks real nice to add to my existing XW, but not the reason for my post. I have been devoting alot of time woodshedding my Alesis Fusions, Korg M3 and of course the PX560 among a few others and this may be late in the game-10 years plus I think-but after playing, composing and modifying these monster workstations-I am surprised to find myself returning to the XW-P1. And the Leslie organ effect posts have gone on forever, but one of my favorite organ tones is not in the drawbar organ engine, but is rather Preset 6-1 rotary organ, which is identical to an organ tone in the PX-560, and the WK/CTK PCM organ tone. Here is what I cannot suss out-the PCM sound has a very pleasing fuller sound than the drawbar organ tones, without those being ventilated, effected etc. Why didn't this tone make it into the drawbar organ tones? I am guessing it is made of a different set of organ samples-and the odd part is that since it is a PCM organ tone, it cannot be controlled with the fast/slow or percussion buttons on the XW-P1. Would have been nice.

Just noticed this post-4 years later, I like to stay on top of things......but these posts suggested to me a new cheap way to get a leslie organ effect-without a Neo-Vent or other B or C emulator etc. Just install a ceiling fan on top of your PA or keyboard amp-careful placement may be critical to get the desired effect. Also a fan with variable speed would be nifty. And to ramp it up or down-just turn it off/on. Fans normally speed up and slow down slowly anyway especially if you get one of those big 6-blade suckers, making for a very realistic imitation of a real leslie, I think.....just add a DIY surround box to protect yer hands and fingers, all set. The audience will never suspect.........only you will know 😵😵😜😜

Let me know how it goes. I use a jeweler's loupe or other magnification to check for hairline cracks in solder joints and circuit pads and traces. I have even seen solder bridges between 2 connections inside keyboards-which may not cause problems initially but over time act as short circuits. One fairly easy trouble-shooting circuit tracing I use, without using an oscilloscope to check for specific signals present or not present in a chip or circuit-using the schematics-check with a multimeter to see if voltages are running through areas connected to this set of keys-especially the voltage pins on any IC's, usually 3V or 5V in Casios. I rarely find dead diodes in the keyboard IC boards which would usually only affect a few keys at best, but I have often found broken, cracked or corroded circuit traces on these boards since these take almost all the shock of the keys hitting plus possible contamination as minor as it might be, especially in older boards. If you're lucky this could cause a group of dead keys. if all this fails, I'm thinking back-tracing with an oscilloscope might be needed to see/compare data lines from the chips directly connected to the matrix back to the LSI's, to determine if data is communicating through the signal path to these keys, not an easy task. Looking at the schematics, I am hoping it is something simpler than this, as there could be a broken data/signal path, or even a voltage path or short to ground in even one trace in one chip. Why most techs will not bother repairing mainboards at the component level anymore, for keyboards or computers.

Can only guess from this far away. Sounds like a data bus line connected to that portion of the keys-usually when an octave (or close to) that is simultaneously out-without seeing a diagram showing the scanning matrix of this Casio-and assuming it uses a scanning matrix, which most keys past early analog used to scan each key-and even early analogs actually-I'd need a schematic to trace which chips and data lines are connected to this section of the keyboard. Could be as simple as a broken circuit trace somewhere, possibly on the key contact IC board or deeper into the mainboard if it has one. to as complex as finding which chips are used to create the scanning matrix and finding a possibly defective chip. Again, just my best guess.

You reported it, thanks! I am always looking for legit parts suppliers, I stick with the known companies that have been around for awhile, have good track records. Many here will pay attention to your post here, I think. I did.🙂

Can you post a picture showing underneath the CDP? I don't have this one, but there might be screws buried under the endcaps, if there are endcaps that can be removed. I will study some diagrams of the CDP, I have disassembled the CDP200 and 230, must be somewhat similar. The PX's have little panels underneath that must be removed to reveal screws buried underneath which must be removed to take off the top panels and speaker compartments but i don't see that in the S100. I found this on Youtube-its in Russian, but he illustrates how he took the CDP-S100 apart. You might have gotten this done correctly, the top and bottom might just need a little "nudging", there might be a bit of interlock between the 2 shells.

Just got this-an Arduino-based controller. I am not conversant with Arduino programming/designing my own Arduino controllers (or I'm just too lazy to learn) so bought a pre-programmed controller. It is VERY programmable and i am currently trying it out on a digital piano with no mod or pitch bend wheels-one knob does control modulation from the factory on each of my keyboards without reprogramming, and generally pitch bend does not use a standard CC number from what I can see, this uses CC exclusively for all the controls so not sure how i will implement pitch bend, but each control can send on a separate midi channel and can be programmed with any CC. and the joystick is not spring loaded, which works for me anyway. I am also going to try this out with my PX560, see if I can add any external midi functionality-it can send on USB and MIDI DIN simultaneously so can be used with hardware or software. Very well-made fits right on top of any of my workstations/pianos. got it pretty quickly from the UK, very nice.

Most times, I Google search as specifically as I can re whatever I need to know. Unfortunately for me, many times it finds one of my old posts I had forgotten about and I'm looking for an answer I already posted...oh well...wish i had a better memory, or at least any memory! So I use Joe's and Brad's suggestions. Admittedly harder on a small screen smartphone. I use the senior citizen tehnique-I connect my computer to my 55" TV....😛😛

If you need any of the Casio converters-the SMF converter, IDES 4.0 let me know, I saved these as at least one of the programs that works is no longer online, and although IDES 4.0 is not designed specifically for the MZ-X series, you might find parts of it useful as it has a midi file rhythm converter built into it that might work with the MZ.

The only thing I could find was at this link, but I have no idea whether this is the real deal-and they are charging 10.00 for it. I could not find any other source. https://sbt-servicemanual.com/px-300-ver-2?search=SBTCS2644&description=true I would try some simple voltage circuit tracing-seeing where the voltage stops getting through to the boards, starting with the power supply board-the board inside that connects to the external wall-wart and passes power to everything else. If you are lucky, might be a simple fuse or even a bad solder connection where the power jack connects to the board-these often crack and cause no power to the rest of the boards, although I am not familiar with the this particular Casio.

I think you may want to look at this comprehensive guide by Chandler. almost any midi file can be used, providing it has all the parts you would need for creating whatever you want-from either a stand-alone rhythm/percussion track to a full-blown multi-part auto arrangement. If you look in the uploads section for the PX560 (very similar to the MZ series) you will find a bunch of .ckf (rhythm) files I created, all created from various midi files. But read Chandler's guide, it is the best explanation of how this is done from midi files, and took many of us a long time to create a process that works and makes sense.

If you see any corrosion-if it isn't too severe-try a little white vinegar applied with an old toothbrush directly onto contact points and dry thoroughly with a blow dryer-I save old toothbrushes for applications like this. I use a 2-speed blow dryer from Harbor Freight or a regular hair blow dryer will work. Sheet rock has gypsum which can be corrosive, so will definitely need to be cleaned. I've also used (sparingly) Arm and Hammer baking soda, which neutralizes any acid that might be on the IC boards, circuit traces or solder points. Joe is absolutely right-boards are washed at the factory. the only problem I foresee-if the PX560 has dual or triple layer IC boards-I don't think it does from what I've observed inside mine-any water damage might have de-laminated the layers, and this is pretty much not repairable. and Brad-wow, amazing these restored at all. but then, I've played in places that although not as bad as being submerged in the ocean, felt like it....