AndrewL

Does any of the flash drives have a light to indicate it's working? It looks like if some of the contacts is not right and for the keyboard that's like having nothing plugged at all. You may try pushing very gently up or down to see if that helps the contact and the drive's light turns on. I'd also try using a vacuum cleaner to try to remove any dust from the USB port. And just in case, with a flashlight check if the contacts inside look fine, just like any other USB port. Regarding the 7.5 GB drive, to me it's clearly an 8 GB one (8 x 10^9), which is actually 7.45 GiB (gibibytes) (7.45 x 2^30). Depending on the operating system or software used, you may see GB or GiB (and both might be shown as GB or Gb, to add to the confusion).

My wild guess is that pressing several keys kind of bends the keybed and probably it's not doing proper pressing of the sensors, especially if it's on a stand... although it's still weird. Does placing the keyboards on a solid surface like a table change its behavior at all?

Just to clarify: the speakers were working fine, you disabled them, and after some time, when re-enabling them, they no longer worked? Was the keyboard moved in-between? My point is to try to guess if the issue could be software related (like some firmware bug due to some very specific combination of things done), or if maybe after transporting some cable went loose inside and the disabling was actually not related. If you put something in Audio In, does it sound? Check page A-6 (almost the end) in the manual, where you can see the circuitry simplified, and what goes to both Speakers and Line out. Does line out work fine, or you only tried the headphone jack?

If you directly record to a wav file on a pen drive and play it elsewhere, does it also sound bad? Do the demos also sound like that? Just like Brad, I couldn't notice anything odd either in your clip.

The easiest way is to start the WAV recording, pause the MIDI at the beginning, increase the tempo, and then touch on Play. But if the MIDI file has tempo changes I'm afraid this will not work, as that will override the tempo you just set... If the MIDI has tempo changes, maybe using a MIDI editor on the PC is your best option. And about Audacity, it's a great tool, but nothing done on the wave file will be the same as playing at a faster speed, as of course each instrument will sound different when sped up (even keeping the pitch). Just like changing the pitch is not the same as transposing, although if the pitch change is small, the difference will be subtle.

Haven't you seen the wheel labeled "MODULATION" on the left part of the keyboard, nor the PITCH BEND one? I'm really confused.

Are they uncompressed stereo 44.1 KHz wav files? You can always record a very short wave with the keyboard and make sure they are in the same folder and have the same format.

And I wonder... isn't maybe just as simple to directly touch the tablet's screen to go full screen? 😅 If you are playing in front of an audience you would need to mute the keyboard if you use C9 instead. AFAIK Acrobat Reader by default doesn't have the full screen button on its toolbar, but you can add and remove buttons as needed.

Very nice! I wonder if you could try something else to go full screen, another button which doesn't cause any sound, like Tempo Up (I have no experience with MIDI signaling). Are you using the left pedal to go right just because it's easier to press and that's the most common page movement? Because of course it would make sense to use left pedal for left and right (middle) for right. 😜

Nice job!! However... 😜

Can you precisely detail what you have done? The expression pedal calibration, for example? Even the manual on page 10 says "Operation has been verified for the pedals below. Roland EV-5: Set minimum volume to 0 (zero)."

I agree that it must be the time it needs to load everything into RAM. For instance, they keyboard doesn't sound until a second after the video finished. Considering that a quick start time is something players appreciate, I highly doubt Casio would just delay it to display a video. 😜

Just to avoid people search for it in case they don't know: Are you looking for the distorted bass sound? Did you try adding distortion to one of the basses? By the way, the arpeggiator options are fixed and you cannot create new ones with the PX-560M. PS: Just using English is enough.

You cannot just change a rhythm from 4/4 to 3/4, as there are many decisions to make and that couldn't be done automatically. Furthermore, rhythms can only be changed very slightly, or using other existing rhythm parts. I guess you will need to find a user made rhythm that fits your needs. Here's a post with recent replies about that:

It depends on what's your "everything". I'll quote what I wrote in my small review of the keyboard here:

I am sorry but after reading your comments it's still not clear to me what exactly happens, or if you followed the calibration steps carefully. Can you explain exactly what happens step by step when trying to recalibrate? Also, I asked before about the qwerty test. Did you try that? Is any part of the touch screen working fine? Is only the Exit what doesn't work? A video will surely be of help.

And then E would be E+G or E+G#?

You can only play uncompressed PCM .wav files from the pen drive, and I think one at a time. If you need many, you could generate a single .wav file with the playlist. Although maybe it's better to have an external mp3 player connected to Audio in.

FWIW, when I recalibrated, the steps in the document were slightly wrong. The document says this: But you actually need to press Bank 3 twice (save def & quit). If you press Bank2 as per step 9 it will start the dual calibration, which you shouldn't. Maybe you were not able to reach this point, but I wanted to clarify this anyway just in case.

Could you verify if the screen is miscalibrated or if there are zones which don't work? An easy way to check the calibration is to use the qwerty keyboard while naming anything (tone, etc.). There you can easily spot misplaced "touches". Can you scroll to the right in the Menu screen? When did this start? I would try a different power supply just in case. For the record, this is the topic about the calibration: And here's another topic with display issues:

Other ideas (I didn't try but I guess they can be done): Have Split always enabled, have Lower 1 the same as Upper 1 and Lower 2 the bass. With the pedal, you turn off Lower 1 and turn on Lower 2 at the same time. Similarly, if you have an expression pedal, you could do the above but with volumes: at one extreme position Lower 1 is at the max and Lower 2 is at the minimum, and viceversa.

Right, the keyboard adjusts automatically if the pedal is reversed. If you are pressing the pedal when turning it on, you will get the opposite behavior as the keyboard will think it's reversed. Not sure about unplugging and re-plugging in this case tough. It's always better to use a 100% compatible one.

Not sure if this can be of help, but here you can see the spare parts that can be bought -somehow and somewhere-. Not sure if it will be possible for you considering shipping costs, etc. https://www.pacparts.com/library/model.cfm?mfg=Casio&model_id=PX560MBE&action=list_part&back=0 There are many boards, none say "mother" or "main", so I'm not sure which one the technician referred to.

Be careful with this (in general with any electronic device). Besides checking that the connector fits well (shouldn't be bigger nor smaller), it's important that the polarity also matches (positive inside for the 560M), and the maximum current must be no smaller than what the device needs (it doesn't hurt if it's greater, that's just the maximum the power supply can provide). I see a supposedly original model on Amazon which says 0.65 A, but as this keyboard's max consumption is 10W, I would prefer one of at least 1 A (10W/12V = 0.83A). Although for just a test at low volume, maybe even 0.5 A might work if you are brave enough (I guess most of the power is for the speakers and not so much for the circuitry). The one that came with my unit is 1.5 A. 🤷‍♀️ Related post. Did you look specifically for keyboard technicians? I'd say it's not 100% necessary. You could look for any electronic technician who deals with computers (mostly notebooks, desktops are more prone to just have a part replaced), modern TVs, or even maybe cell phones. Basically someone who can understand a PCB (printed circuit board) and look for faulty components by sight or using a multimeter or oscilloscope. Interesting, Haedo is a city near where I live.

Exactly, I was also thinking of that. The transformer itself, the cable or the connector. In case all this has been checked, if the problem is a loose connection inside, you could try placing the keyboard differently, like with a slope. When it won't turn on, put it vertically, upside down, etc, to see if that changes anything. How savvy is the technician you sent the keyboard to? If it's a faulty component from the motherboard, a good electronic technician might be able to find it (even with a thorough visual check), unless it's something complex like a Casio processor. PS: Are you by chance from Haedo, Bs. As.?