Jokeyman123

I could not go to Anaheim-but am waiting for reports about possible Casio releases in addition the new line of retro (or Japanese) design digital pianos, but that might be it for 2023. Was supposed to be in January originally and was postponed. Anybody on the boards here attend in person, see anything interesting? I'm thinking Mike Martin might have been able to be there.

I still have my Casio calculator watch. One thing I wish I had kept-how about a video on the cassiopeia hand-held pocket PC's? I had several, with those great color screens, decades before the color touchscreens on the MZ and PX series. These were the best of the pocket PC's IMO. I had the E-125 and E-115 and i think a BE-300. Should have held onto those but then came smartphones, ah well.

This webpage might help. https://www.hostinger.com/tutorials/what-is-403-forbidden-error-and-how-to-fix-it

This opened by default with my copy of Winamp. I also opened it with Audacity-but Audacity needed the ffmpeg plugin to open it-then it can be saved as a standard .wav file which many samplers can import and play. My old PX575 can import wav files, I think several of the older WK's can also do that an the MZ-X500? As can many other keyboards with built-in samplers.. i have a huge collection of older Casio samples I play in my Alesis Fusions, including the base SK-1 sounds, and many CZ sound samples.

Is this a gospel lesson for a beginner? In Db? With 7th, 9th and 13th chord extensions? I don't think so. If you are not a fairly advanced player, this is not the place to start IMO. The 7-3-6-2-5-1 is not exactly a beginner's chord progression, especially not in the key of Db! Don't get discouraged SteveK. Try just playing the left hand supporting 7th interval voicing first. In the key of C would be a little easier to understand IMO. Root tones would be simply C-B-E-A-D-G-C in the key of C. In the key of Db-roots would be Db-F#-C-Bb-Eb-G# back to Db which he shows pretty clearly, but.... Jeez, maybe I have to start doing some tutorials on chord progressions! Watch his left hand for intervals of "7ths". Might make more sense to you before you try superimposing your extended chord voicings on top of these. Just saying.... many players just use 2-note left hand 7th interval voicings, then you can put a variety of different chords on top of that with your right hand. the 7th voicing in the left hand is called a "skeleton" chord-many bebop guys used to do this as it was a fast way to get through more complex chord progressions-like this one. Bud Powell was one be-bop piano guy that did this constantly. In the key of C...C7-B7-E7-A7-D7-G7-C7. This is also called the "circle of fifths" (or fourths depending on how you look at it) because this chord progression uses a spacing of an interval of a fifth between each root tone. Looking backwards-C to G to D to A to E to B-are all a fifth apart or a fourth looking from left to right. used in a million songs. Sorry, I'm probably off the chart with this post-can't help it-must be the teacher in me, hard habit to break. Sorry!

I've worked on a few of these headphone circuits-had them disassembled, repaired 1 or 2 (my bad). Joe you are right, there would still be audio out, possibly monophonic, or one left or right channel from a stereo field. Because its powering down on its own, and sounds dropping out completely-might be a short circuit or bad solder joint, partially disconnected ribbon cable inside, or other defective component. There could be a short in the headphone jack, which could cut off sound from the speakers since it acts as a switch with relays in it, at least this is the way my other Casio headphone jacks are designed. Factory assembly is not always perfect from Casio, or any other manufacturer (search with Google-Roland Juno G screen defect, I had one and it was beyond repair, worse-the replacement part was just as defective-aaarrrggghhh! No electronic assembly is immune to human or robotic assembly- again look up Fatar, or my Alesis Fusions, more pain, but has kept me busy with repairs!!!!!.....sorry off topic. 💩 👹 The other possibility pmisiejuk-can you try another power supply? Could be a bad supply or power supply jack. If that jack has a cracked or cold solder joint inside (meaning it might look like a good solder joint-but it is not making electrical conductivity, either partially or not at all-where the jack is soldered to the board-this could cause that kind of defect. It most definitely is NOT WORKING PROPERLY, this is not from "user error", there is no way you could have caused this-unless you poured molasses in the headphone jack, or tried cleaning the jack with a drillbit and power drill. Even then I bet this Casio would still work, if it wasn't defective-don't do that though!!!!!! (I've been tempted at times my bad again) I would make sure Thomann gets you a replacement. Don't let them off the hook!!! You paid for a perfect working Casio, they have an obligation as a reputable dealer to get you one. I'm sure they will.

That's still a great deal, the CTX-5000 usually goes for around $400-500 online. was considering picking up a used JV-1010, but I guess the sounds are bit "dated' compared to the Casio? I've had other older Roland modules-the SC-33, MT-32 years ago and still have a PMA-5 which isn't terrible but no match for the Casio tones.

20 dollars!!!!! Can't even get a meal for me and my wife anymore for 20.00... Did I read that right? Did it come with the keys, or did you have to pay extra? But they took a trade-in which is also pretty amazing-what did you trade in?

What you need is the M-Audio Oxygen 8-almost identical to your 25 (I've had both at one time or another) except it has a true midi "DIN" 5-pin out port on the back-which, with the right midi din 5-pin cable, will connect directly to the same design port on the PX5s. Have to be used as these were older models-I'm seeing on E-hooey for around 50-60 dollars. Make sure the seller guarantees that it works although these M-Audios are pretty hard to destroy. If you want more octaves the Axiom 49 is an excellent controller with midi din out too but these generally are closer to 100 dollars and probably more than you need. There aren't too many inexpensive controllers that have midi din out ports to match the PX5s or other keyboards/tone modules. Or even expensive ones. Just look up 25-key controllers and see if you can view a picture of the back panel-you are looking for a 5-pin midi din female socket on the back panel, not the computer USB socket so many now have. and the Oxygen 8 has both midi din and USB.

If I go out in a PA system, I go stereo and that would be one reason, that and the stereo pianos. Even though the original leslies of course were in one spot-Robbie in our "Blue Angel" rock band-would set up his 2 Leslie cabinets in stereo (!)-one one side of the stage, and one on the other side. Talk about stereo! would in a sense cancel each other out a bit, but at that level of volume, I never noticed! Had to have his Hammond modded to be able to have 2 Leslies connected, I don't remember how he did it. but i distinctly remember having to carry both in my Chevy long van back in the 60s-70s. My how things have changed.

OK-after about 15-30 minutes of listening-to all 3 Leslie effects from the 3 different "boards"-the 560 effect is using the same slow/fast rotation for the lower and upper Leslie effect-still a very nice simulation IMO but the speed setting is varying both the lower and upper rotation at the same rate-I'm not sure this can be reprogrammed to split the effect-have to study a bit more-but both the Ferrofish and Alesis Fusion can set these rates independently-and also can set the ramp speed up and down separately. The Ferrofish in particular is pretty powerful with these settings-even the eq can be set separately for the horn and the bass-only one control from bass to treble but still is effective. So no, I don't think the bass and horn are rotating at separate speeds with the 560-the "apparent' effect is very good though-playing lower octaves-I did not hear any rotation at all with the slowest modwheel setting-it seemed to follow the speed of the horn setting with the mod wheel. I only used the organ tones the original programmer used. I plugged in a few other PX560 organ tones I had edited into this registration-pretty hastily-just to hear the results and it only confused the issue. I still like the way the 3 dials bring in simulated drawbar settings-very effective even compared to the Ferrofish and Fusion. The Fusion can also do this with its 4 knobs as controllers, and saves the knob settings with individual tones, not with registrations as does the Ferrofish-it is a tone module, not an efx pedal. The 560 arrangement of registrations is the best AFAIK of all the Casios-fast and simple. I can flip though every registration in about 20 seconds! Well maybe 30....OK 45!!! And the touchscreen-still a beautiful thing.

If you insist.....I'll check it out. Was out on the mothership for a spin.... Apparently only you and I seem to be paying attention lately-well then there is Brad and Joe M. And Mike Martin checks in. I also have the Ferrofish B-4000+ and the Fusion's Leslie effect is not too terrible to compare-both do have separate speed settings for the Leslie horn driver and the bass speaker.

What I use is the Takstar WMP-200 wireless (not bluetooth) transmitter/receiver system, looks like only around 30-40 US dollars for the system. The transmitter uses a frequency range in the high 700MHz range-not the same frequency as bluetooth-same as some wireless mikes and headsets-which also do not have any audio lag. The Takstar is the same technology. the transmitter also needs a "wall-wart" power supply which comes with it although I use a portable cellphone 12V power pack. The receiver runs off 2 AA batteries, has switchable frequency channels. NO AUDIO LAG. A little more complicated to set up-the transmitter has 1 1/4" stereo jack-you'd have to use the right audio adapter cable from your Casio to the Takstar-I use the keyboard stereo headphone jack out to the Takstar. Might have to adjust the volume on the Casio a bit. The Takstar receiver has a mini stereo headphone output jack 1/8"-I use this system to plug in my best headsets-so becomes a wireless headphone setup-works all over the house, not sure what the range is but it easily beats bluetooth. It has a volume control and channel switch right inside the panel door. NO LAG! In your situation-instead of plugging headphones into the receiver's output jack, with the right audio cable-easy-its a 1/8" stereo plug out to a 2-connector RCA directly to a stereo amp input or PA head with 1/4" plugs on the end instead of RCA-or with a different audio cable you could adapt this receiver to input to something else. I've had it working into my stereo line inputs into a Zoom multi-track digital recorder which uses two 1/4" monophonic jacks-or with a different audio adapter-right into a guitar amp which won't sound terribly good but will work. OR...one of the cheap and cheerful newer little Chinese stereo amps that use RCA stereo inputs which I connect to a pair of (not Bluetooth but wired) bookshelf speakers. You will need to amplify that stereo headphone output though, but it is wireless stereo. Yes you will need to become better acquainted with the joys of stereo and mono adapters and adapter cables-but once you get this setup-just about anything that has an audio out will go into the Takstar transmitter (I use it for wireless TV audio even though I have bluetooth sets-bluetooth only goes out a few feet, i can walk outside and still be hearing whatever is connected to the other end with the Takstar. So for me at least-far superior to messing with bluetooth/syncing/dropped signals etc. It has its uses but for live lag-free sound/music and a stronger signal, I like this Takstar setup. There may be similar non-bluetooth systems like this, but this is one of the simplest I've found, and IT WORKS!

To make this perfectly unclear-there are "lithium" non-rechargeable AA's that have been around a long time-I've never really seen the advantage except for long-time usage low drain applications-wi-fi cameras etc. and I'm sure these would be OK for a keyboard. I also just found another interesting but vital statistic-studying these batteries more carefully-the rechargeable lithium-ions are rated at mWh-not mAh-meaning this is the rating for how long the battery may last depending upon use-not how much power it will put out over a period of use-very subtle but distinct difference. Why? Because according to many reviews-the rechargeable lithium-ions are not putting out as much power as NIMH's, alkalines or anything else. So the net effect-might only run as long as any other chemistry-maybe longer-but will be putting out lower power for that duration-i was about to put out about 40.00 for a set of these with a charger and decided against it after reading this. most battery-powered keyboards will need some juice-maybe more than these can supply. And if lithium-ions are drained too quickly-pop goes the weasel. No free lunch either-less power, shorter run times given everything else is equal.

I'm afraid these posts got mixed up-I will delete mine-because the translation is hant7's post, not mine. He has the files posted in my post, no sure how that happened. i use google translate, maybe I translated Hant's post and accidentally put it in mine. I do not have any of that info or software. From 2021, not sure Hant would have it either but you can ask.

lithium ion-I did not know there were 1.5V lithium cells that match the size of a typical AA battery. Do you mean these? https://www.amazon.com/TENAVOLTS-Rechargeable-Batteries-rechargeable-electrical/dp/B07HQ7QV7W?th=1 This looks like a step up in technology-I've used lithium ion in my R/C hobby for a long time but at the standard voltage of 3.7V per cell, the same chemistry used in laptops (inside the containers are 18650 lithium ion cells 3.7V apiece and with protected regulated circuits-also hobby drones, helis, planes and cars-and these new 15V cells are "protected" which is really good. I don't know though-I'd still not use them in a keyboard not designed for these. If these blow-it would be a catastrophe, I've deliberately ignited lithium ions in an outside controlled environment to see for myself-its like setting off a small incendiary bomb. Lithium burns white-hot and gives off amazing amounts of noxious gases if the battery blows. it certainly will take your keyboard with it. I might test these on something more disposable first-are getting good reviews on A****n. Lithium ion can run pretty hot. I use the 3.7V in CREE flashlights designed for lithium-ion, and if left on for even 5-10 minutes, can get dangerously hot to handle risking explosion. I am careful to only leave these on for a minute or 2 at a time, and still makes me nervous. I wonder if these cells have the same characteristic-you do not want a cell running hot inside a Casio keyboard-or any other closed space IMO. I notice many of the reviewers use these in outdoor cameras-that says something. One other thought-I've had lithium ion 3.7V cells suddenly go reverse voltage-I can't explain why this happens but it does. If this were to happen in a combined pack-say 4-6-8 cells together-it could overload the other batteries and cause an explosion, even if the batteries have protected circuits. Lithium-ions need to stay "balanced" if using more than one. Computer packs have dedicated circuits inside the packs to make sure the cells discharge and charge equitably-because it is dangerous if these don't. If one cell goes bad, it shuts off the entire pack-I know, I've taken some of these apart and salvaged the good 3.7v 18650's, I know how that works. Not recommended unless you are willing to take the risk-of blowing yourself up. i like to live dangerously-sometimes.

I'll see if I have pictures but this was awhile ago, not an easy job. First challenge is getting the entire PX560 apart which if under warranty-after one year I think yours is-you will void that. Even if not, unless you are pretty skilled mechanically and otherwise, don't do this. Once you've removed the top control panel and speakers-necessary to get the key assembly out enough to get the felt underneath-study to see which screws hold the key assembly in place-all these screw anchors are plastic, and are easily stripped if you aren't careful not to cross-thread or over-tighten when re-assembling. Something else very important-not only will the keys clunk on return-which is what this fix is about-you might hear a nasty clunk on initial strike-when the hammers are first hitting up above, on an entirely separate strip of cushioning felt that can also wear. I have quieted that part in a similar way, an even more difficult mod won't detail it here. Make sure you can hear which sound is the offending one-is it on key release (bottom strip under the key assembly) or upon your original keystroke downward-felt strip is above the keys where the hammer first hits? I trained years ago as a keyboard/computer tech and learned electronics and assembly/disassembly skills. Even though I did not pursue this professionally-decided not to go on the road where the work would have been touring with music groups-this has always been an "avocation"-more than a passing interest although playing has always been forefront. I always had a fascination with electronics and mechanicals, one of my earliest toys was a broken Remco crystal radio I repaired with a mike and speaker for-annoying my parents and neighbors. I think was 8 or so years old, who knew I'd still be fixing other's throw-away stuff!!!! Looked a little like below, mine was even better with an attached microphone and was somebody else's throwaway. I still have one-but its an ICOM professional ham transceiver-cost me a little more dinero....and was not somebody else's "throwaway"-and has the attached microphone-again to annoy the neighbors once i get that 50-foot beam in the air and can push 1000 watts linear-but that's another user group..... Keyboards and other electronic musical instruments have been an adventure, seeing technology evolve and improve over the years-and sometimes lately not improving but stepping back to more cheaply made but still costly-not accusing Casio-I see this in several brands and construction. Buyer beware. I discovered recently one manufacturer-after research on the internet and in several user groups-outsourcing some of their more expensive workstations/digital piano key assemblies to a cheaper, more plasticky design. I was about to buy one and did my "due diligence". I respect manufacturers too much to say who-I'm always cautious about how something is put together before I put my money out. Not that a plastic design is necessarily a bad thing, how manufacturers have lightened up the weight on many 88-key assemblies which i welcome-but this particular design-does not instill me with confidence once I saw how the key was assembled to the frame. Most people won't care or understand, but before I buy a car/motorcycle/refrigerator-or keyboard-I try to look "under the hood" first if I can. My mother's expensive refrigerator for example-a major brand-caused nothing but trouble and had to have a repair technician in more than once. For a 2000+ dollar name brand, it should at least work, I hate eating rotten food......but if I'm hungry enough....😛

You are most welcome.Just a little PS nothing do with this post-been watching Donnie Laws on Youtube-some interesting history there-as poor as the Appalachian people were, still managed to have a banojo, fiddle, guitar and played wonderful music. I have Scottish/Irish heritage on my father's side-had relatives living in the Appalachians early on (Allgoods), and before the Revolution in PA, I ended back in PA in the mountains before I knew all this. Explains to me why I love Appalachian folk music, bluegrass and always had/have music in our family.

I have not used that function but this article from wordpress that had articles about the XW early on describes using a solo synth preset to activate the mic/ line in, but according to this article -only envelopes, filters and LFOs become active with an external in-not the DSP effects such as reverb/chorus etc. and of course the manual is not real clear. I also remember a video Mike Martin posted on Youtube demo'ing how to simulate a vocoder using the keys and an external mic-but this isn't what you want either, might help to understand how that works. Here is the wordpress article. https://xwsynth.wordpress.com/2012/04/03/using-the-solosynths-external-input/ This earlier post here might be helpful-notice the stereo audio input will not work with effects, only the mic/instrument input. I found the Mike Martin demo re/vocoder-but it doesn't explain how this is done-and it only seems to pitch-shift depending upon keys played, not very helpful either for what you want to do.. I am looking through AlenK's docs-he references his explanation in one of his manuals as to how this is done, but i can't find it at least not yet!

Am also a "bit" OCD (look at my posts!) I don't see different key lengths-I see a tiny variation as to how the keys are sitting in relation to each other front to back. Look towards the middle where the white intersects the front of the black keys, I see some of the white keys are not lined up exactly the same way-we're talking less than 1/32 of an inch from what I can see in your pics. This is probably due to the key pivots in the back-where there might be some play front to back like Brad said, shouldn't be much. Check to see if you can move these keys a bit forward and back. I'd be more concerned about whether the keys are level in relation to each other-this would affect my technique, and i don't see that in your pics, looks pretty level across, and should stay that way. But if this key length is affecting your technique-if the keys feel unbalanced, only you can decide whether you want to return it or not. If this minor (I can barely see it and my eyes are pretty good) key length variation affects the weight of the key-affects your technique, you have to decide what to do. I have dealt with some much worse key assembly mechanical problems I've had to correct, and it wasn't from my Casios but I will check. I have the PX560 and an older PX575 both weighted, plus a few other weighted boards, I never even bothered to notice this-as long as the key action feels "right" and balanced, I'm happy and the Casios i mentioned play fine.

Could end up being a pretty tricky mod...but the 3200 has a pitch bend wheel.....I have never done this but throwing it out there. Since the pitch wheel is a potentiometer-I wonder if you could change the pitch finely enough by adding a specific amount of resistance to the pitch wheel circuit, or even installing a separate pot to vary the pitch, at least for one tone at a time, not globally. I haven't done the calculation necessary to see if this is possible in such a fine increment-just a screwball idea i suppose. And then this will not affect a midi file playback, I'm pretty sure the pitch wheel is not active for a midi file, could be wrong, I don't know the 3200. And for this fine an increment-a fraction a cent, the 3200 as Cyberyogi suggests, might not be capable of such a fine incremental alteration regardless of how you alter the pitch circuitry. Ironic-in that the early days of analog synths, where tunings could be continually adjusted-oscillators were famous for being unstable-one never knew when your entire instrument might shift up or down on its own. Now one ends up with the opposite problem. crystal-locked frequencies that sometimes also clock the CPU depending on design-so cannot be altered without changing the clock frequency of that CPU and screwing up the entire keyboard. Progress I guess....

It can be done with an audio editor after the recording is done. I am looking at Audacity right now-select "all" go to "effect" drop-down menu-open "change pitch" and a select screen opens which allows for altering the entire track by semi-tones or by fine increments of frequency-and allows for stretch tuning also. This does not change the speed of the track (tempo), only the actual overal pitches/tuning-can be done for an individual wav file, or an entire composition as a .wav, .mp3 or any other audio file Audacity can open. Of course this does not solve the problem of changing pitch in fine increments with the Casio keyboard which is what Lurch wants to do. At least one can make a recording and change pitch. I think some DAW's can do this but audacity is pretty simple to use for a one-pass audio recording.

Make sure you turn off your wi-fi connection on your phone-sometimes the wi-fi signals and bluetooth can interfere with each other-it shouldn't but it can. I've had to do that when bluetooth fails to fully connect on my phones. Might not solve your problem but can't do any harm. Bluetooth is a very short-range signal, can easily be blocked from interference, at least that's been my experinece. I have a smart TV and a bluetooth amp right near it-and it always gives me trouble connecting, hit or miss and its a new tv and amp.

Absolutely, the designs are obviously that way (different) for a reason. Thank you Mike.