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A3 and F4 makes surrounding notes much louder.


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So I bought this CDP 200r almost 9 years ago. It works perfectly fine, but someone dropped something on the screen and its cracked. However, it still works the way it should, except the display is half not working. However, whenever I hold the A3 note, it makes all notes from F3 to B3 ridiculously louder. When I hold the F4 key. it makes F#4 much louder. Does anyone why this is, and how to fix it?

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Hi and welcome to the forums.  It could be debris or some kind of build-up messing with the sensors, or a control board could be bad.  First thing I'd try is cheap and easy: blast out the bad area with canned air. Really get the straw in there and spray all around the affected area. Also, turn the keyboard upside-down when you do this so gravity works for you, not against you. This *may* work, but my guess is it needs to be opened up and maybe some parts to be fixed. 

So if the air doesn't work, you may want to look at just getting a new one. 9 years is a pretty good run for an entry-level digital piano and you will be getting  a MUCH better sound and feel with a brand new instrument. Brand new CDP-135 is $299. So food for thought.. GOOD LUCK! Let us know how it works out! 

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OK, I'll weigh in.

I'm not sure the cracked screen has much to do with this, unless as Scott already mentioned, parts of the broken screen or broken parts inside from the pressure of the screen breaking are interfering with certain sensors. Being the notes affected are in the mjddle octaves if I am correct this is possible.

 

Here is another possibility. If you are willing to do some teardown yourself (look up some of my posts a and a few others who have already disassembled their Casio Privias which might help you not have to start at ground zero) you will be able to access the mounting points-screws for the key assembly-from the top without taking the entire key assembly apart. I just disassembled a PX560 top panel to repair a 3-knob circuit board and it was not so difficult if you know which screws to remove.

 

If the CDP is similar in construction (one of my students has one, it looks physically similar but not sure-never had that one apart) there are separate rows of screws on the bottom just to remove the top panel or panels, and different rows of screws to take the keybed out completely which I don't think you will need to do. You may also need to remove the endcaps and there may be screws inside the endcaps keeping things together. Try removing only the screws directly under the top control panel, not under the key assembly. All the Casios I've disassembled allow for partially removing the top panels to get to circuitboards and-critical for you possibly-the screw strips that anchor the back-end, the pivot points for the keys. In my experience (and this included the XW-P1) these back-end screws which sit right on the top of the keys are critical to the keys making proper contact with the rubber boots underneath the keys and on every Casio I've worked on, many were pretty loose. If any screws are loose, the key will "give" slightly at the back, and not  place accurate direct pressure on the boot underneath, and you will probably never notice a difference in the "feel" of the keys.

 

All this of course is not necessary if Scott's solution works, but if it doesn't and you are serious about keeping the CDP, you might want to try this. And since there is no warrsnty to be concerned about, as long as you are fairly competent with a screwdriver you can probably do this. Be careful when taking the top assembly off. There will be several connecting cables which can easily be damaged if you are not studying the internal parts as you go. You may not need to move the top assembly too much to get to these critical screws as these are right on top, right behind the front of the top panel, at least if this CDP is anything like my other Privias. Hope I helped.

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