Martin.Haedo Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 Hi there people from the internet! I have an issue with my piano like for a while and I just don't want to spend too much money to fix it! The problem is that one day my piano turned on like 2-3min and then it turned off. Then my piano didn't turn on at all. I tried another wall plug and nothing. Then suddenly it turned on by it self! And on the starting/loading screen it remains 2-3 seconds turning on and then it turned off. Then it didn't turn on at all until next day. So what I'm trying to explain is that it has it's moments, it is random when it turns on or off. Then I sent it to a tech, so he can fix it! But he couldn't, he thought it was the power button so he changed it but nothing happened! It remains as before. After a couple days he told me that it was a problem with the motherboard, and I need to change it, all the piece. That's half the price of the piano, like $350-400, and I'm not sure if that's really the problem. I discover that if I keep the piano unplugged for a couple of days, it works normally after that, to a point and then it turns off for ever again. So why if it's the motherboard, I can play it perfectly when I unplug it for a couple of days? I'm not sure, and I hope someone here has the answer! Because I don't want to spend that amount of money and the realize that it wasn't the motherboard! Please help me . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Martin Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 Martin, I'm sorry to hear about the trouble you're having but I'm not sure anyone here on the forum and properly diagnose the problem you're having. I would assume that the technician ruled out a power supply problem. If this hasn't be confirmed, replacing the power supply is the first thing I'd do. Based on the design of the instrument, if it is getting proper power that leaves very few options besides replacing the main board. I'm not a technician myself but based on what I know, usually the process of replacing the whole board is more economical than diagnosing and replacing individual parts on those boards. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jokeyman123 Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 Make sure you get another Casio dedicated power supply for this-not one of the cheap knockoffs that usually don't supply enough power to the Casio Privias. Could be a glitchy supply if you are lucky, and like Mike said, this is always the first place to diagnose. If your tech checked ll the obvious defaults-loose cables, shorted capacitors or burned components-rare but possible-even a stray bit of solder could short an IC and cause strange problems like this. but bed upon experience with computer motherboards, there are a number of defects in motherboard that could cause this. Unfortunately, there are few components on a motheboard that can be circuit-traced and repaired without an oscilloscope, signal generators and a multitester-and alot of time which is money. Why the option to replace the mainboard is the more prudent way to go. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewL Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 19 hours ago, Mike Martin said: would assume that the technician ruled out a power supply problem. If this hasn't be confirmed, replacing the power supply is the first thing I'd do. Exactly, I was also thinking of that. The transformer itself, the cable or the connector. In case all this has been checked, if the problem is a loose connection inside, you could try placing the keyboard differently, like with a slope. When it won't turn on, put it vertically, upside down, etc, to see if that changes anything. How savvy is the technician you sent the keyboard to? If it's a faulty component from the motherboard, a good electronic technician might be able to find it (even with a thorough visual check), unless it's something complex like a Casio processor. PS: Are you by chance from Haedo, Bs. As.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanB Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 It sounds like the technician didn't try very hard or was not that competent. There are many "technicians" out there it seems who can't do more than change a simple component like a switch, or a board swap. If the PSU has not been changed, this would be the first avenue of inquiry. Might also be a faulty internal capacitor in the keyboard itself. The behaviour you describes smells strongly of a capacitor issue somewhere. "It's the main board" may well be a euphemism for "I don't know what's wrong". Most people faced with that kind of replacement cost will just buy a new one, which saves the tech the embarrassment of not knowing what is actually wrong with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jokeyman123 Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 I agree with Ian. there could be something very minor causing this-I have only replaced main/motherboards when I was absolutely sure there could be no other problem. It's a shame that the days of techs repairing at the "component" level are so rare, but it is still a relevant way to go IMO. And there are still many peripheral circuits and components that are easy enough to check and replace. I will tell you from experience-I have discovered more than one ribbon cable slightly slipping out of its socket that caused a host of bizarre problems, including not being able to boot up the entire keyboard or computer. I learned to be a technician-because I couldn't find any-and this was a long time ago. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanB Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 @Jokeyman123 Agreed. I extended my knowledge to repairing CRTs (something I'd avoided due to the voltages involved) when I found it effectively impossible to find anyone who would repair one. I suspect even a lot of modern monitors are getting thrown away due to nothing more than a poorly seated ribbon cable. Considering the number of people out here keeping decades old equipment working- old Casio synths and the small keyboards we all love being notable on this forum- we need more expertise than swapping boards, the supply of which doesn't last long beyond the launch of the next model anyway. I'd better shut up now or I'll start ranting about the difficulty of getting service manuals etc, which manufacturers these days seem to clutch to their chests like firstborn infants. Which reminds me, I really need to strip down my (20 year old) Roland MIDI controller and give the key contacts a clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin.Haedo Posted July 22, 2022 Author Share Posted July 22, 2022 On 7/20/2022 at 10:48 AM, AndrewL said: Exactly, I was also thinking of that. The transformer itself, the cable or the connector. In case all this has been checked, if the problem is a loose connection inside, you could try placing the keyboard differently, like with a slope. When it won't turn on, put it vertically, upside down, etc, to see if that changes anything. How savvy is the technician you sent the keyboard to? If it's a faulty component from the motherboard, a good electronic technician might be able to find it (even with a thorough visual check), unless it's something complex like a Casio processor. PS: Are you by chance from Haedo, Bs. As.? On 7/20/2022 at 11:39 AM, IanB said: It sounds like the technician didn't try very hard or was not that competent. There are many "technicians" out there it seems who can't do more than change a simple component like a switch, or a board swap. If the PSU has not been changed, this would be the first avenue of inquiry. Might also be a faulty internal capacitor in the keyboard itself. The behaviour you describes smells strongly of a capacitor issue somewhere. "It's the main board" may well be a euphemism for "I don't know what's wrong". Most people faced with that kind of replacement cost will just buy a new one, which saves the tech the embarrassment of not knowing what is actually wrong with it. On 7/20/2022 at 4:50 PM, Jokeyman123 said: I agree with Ian. there could be something very minor causing this-I have only replaced main/motherboards when I was absolutely sure there could be no other problem. It's a shame that the days of techs repairing at the "component" level are so rare, but it is still a relevant way to go IMO. And there are still many peripheral circuits and components that are easy enough to check and replace. I will tell you from experience-I have discovered more than one ribbon cable slightly slipping out of its socket that caused a host of bizarre problems, including not being able to boot up the entire keyboard or computer. I learned to be a technician-because I couldn't find any-and this was a long time ago. Thank you so much to all of your answers! They were really great! The one thing I tried a lot is changing the transformer and the connector. But, not with another orginal Casio connector tho. I tried with many other, some that are from other pianos, some that were creater by my father from connectors of computers or scaners, etc. And some from the tech that I went. And with some of them the piano worked, just for a while, and for the other ones it just didn't worked. I also think that the tech was not that competent and said that just to get free from my piano! That's why I thought to bring my piano to another tech, but every musician from my country told me that "that tech" that I brought before, is the best one in my country. Thing that I'm not really sure! I live on Ecuador and there's no much where I can go to fix it. So I don't really know what to do. Maybe I should buy another original connector from Casio, and see if that works? Thank you again for all of your answers, you're great guys! PS: And yes, Haedo is my fathers surname, and he is from Bs, Argentina! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewL Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, Martin.Haedo said: The one thing I tried a lot is changing the transformer and the connector. But, not with another orginal Casio connector tho. I tried with many other, some that are from other pianos, some that were creater by my father from connectors of computers or scaners, etc. And some from the tech that I went. And with some of them the piano worked, just for a while, and for the other ones it just didn't worked. Be careful with this (in general with any electronic device). Besides checking that the connector fits well (shouldn't be bigger nor smaller), it's important that the polarity also matches (positive inside for the 560M), and the maximum current must be no smaller than what the device needs (it doesn't hurt if it's greater, that's just the maximum the power supply can provide). I see a supposedly original model on Amazon which says 0.65 A, but as this keyboard's max consumption is 10W, I would prefer one of at least 1 A (10W/12V = 0.83A). Although for just a test at low volume, maybe even 0.5 A might work if you are brave enough (I guess most of the power is for the speakers and not so much for the circuitry). The one that came with my unit is 1.5 A. 🤷♀️ Related post. 1 hour ago, Martin.Haedo said: I also think that the tech was not that competent and said that just to get free from my piano! That's why I thought to bring my piano to another tech, but every musician from my country told me that "that tech" that I brought before, is the best one in my country. Thing that I'm not really sure! I live on Ecuador and there's no much where I can go to fix it. Did you look specifically for keyboard technicians? I'd say it's not 100% necessary. You could look for any electronic technician who deals with computers (mostly notebooks, desktops are more prone to just have a part replaced), modern TVs, or even maybe cell phones. Basically someone who can understand a PCB (printed circuit board) and look for faulty components by sight or using a multimeter or oscilloscope. 1 hour ago, Martin.Haedo said: PS: And yes, Haedo is my fathers surname, and he is from Bs, Argentina! Interesting, Haedo is a city near where I live. Edited July 22, 2022 by AndrewL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jokeyman123 Posted July 23, 2022 Share Posted July 23, 2022 (edited) Hate to repeat myself but important-get the same factory power supply-Casio AD-A12150LW. If you don't have that one, you have the wrong supply. This is listed at 12V, 1.5 amps. If you are willing to try additional trouble-shooting-get a multimeter-a decent one is pretty inexpensive on Amazon marketplace or eBay-I have a few-and learn to use it, not hard if techs are hard to find in your area. Youtube has many multimeter tutorials or do a Google search-now you can check your power supply to see if it is putting out the correct voltage (good for checking batteries too) and amperage-very important to get proper amperage to your Casio. Some aftermarket power supplies are just not powerful enough-or worse, list false power ratings when you look at seller's listings, or won't list the amperage at all-might look like its 1-2 amps but it isn't. The Casios I use are so far always accurate. At least you can completely eliminate the supply as the problem. Beyond that-if your tech will let you into his troubleshooting-look it over with him/her-2 heads are better than one-even the best techs can miss obvious problems-I don't like to look over other's shoulders when they are working-but its your keyboard and you need to get it fixed!!!! Too bad you can't open it yourself-this also could be as simple as cracked power supply jack solder joint-happens all the time. Will show up with temperature differences too-depending on nature of defective joint-heat/cold can change the geometry of the crack-and open and close it-which would cause these odd on/off problems. Keep at it! Edited July 23, 2022 by Jokeyman123 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin.Haedo Posted July 24, 2022 Author Share Posted July 24, 2022 On 7/22/2022 at 9:15 AM, AndrewL said: Be careful with this (in general with any electronic device). Besides checking that the connector fits well (shouldn't be bigger nor smaller), it's important that the polarity also matches (positive inside for the 560M), and the maximum current must be no smaller than what the device needs (it doesn't hurt if it's greater, that's just the maximum the power supply can provide). I see a supposedly original model on Amazon which says 0.65 A, but as this keyboard's max consumption is 10W, I would prefer one of at least 1 A (10W/12V = 0.83A). Although for just a test at low volume, maybe even 0.5 A might work if you are brave enough (I guess most of the power is for the speakers and not so much for the circuitry). The one that came with my unit is 1.5 A. 🤷♀️ Related post. Did you look specifically for keyboard technicians? I'd say it's not 100% necessary. You could look for any electronic technician who deals with computers (mostly notebooks, desktops are more prone to just have a part replaced), modern TVs, or even maybe cell phones. Basically someone who can understand a PCB (printed circuit board) and look for faulty components by sight or using a multimeter or oscilloscope. Interesting, Haedo is a city near where I live. On 7/23/2022 at 7:34 AM, Jokeyman123 said: Hate to repeat myself but important-get the same factory power supply-Casio AD-A12150LW. If you don't have that one, you have the wrong supply. This is listed at 12V, 1.5 amps. If you are willing to try additional trouble-shooting-get a multimeter-a decent one is pretty inexpensive on Amazon marketplace or eBay-I have a few-and learn to use it, not hard if techs are hard to find in your area. Youtube has many multimeter tutorials or do a Google search-now you can check your power supply to see if it is putting out the correct voltage (good for checking batteries too) and amperage-very important to get proper amperage to your Casio. Some aftermarket power supplies are just not powerful enough-or worse, list false power ratings when you look at seller's listings, or won't list the amperage at all-might look like its 1-2 amps but it isn't. The Casios I use are so far always accurate. At least you can completely eliminate the supply as the problem. Beyond that-if your tech will let you into his troubleshooting-look it over with him/her-2 heads are better than one-even the best techs can miss obvious problems-I don't like to look over other's shoulders when they are working-but its your keyboard and you need to get it fixed!!!! Too bad you can't open it yourself-this also could be as simple as cracked power supply jack solder joint-happens all the time. Will show up with temperature differences too-depending on nature of defective joint-heat/cold can change the geometry of the crack-and open and close it-which would cause these odd on/off problems. Keep at it! Hi there friends! I just wanted to be clear on some points! I have the original power supply from Casio, with that supply I had the first on/off problems!. That's why my dad, that had a minor on electronic created for me a new power supply, safetly! And I used it, and it has like the same problem. Me and my dad open up the piano many times, but we couldn't be able to find the problem! So we sent it to this tech! That couldn't too haha. So now I'm with this problem and I don't really know what to do. If it is the case that is the motherboard the problem, can anyone send me any link of a US shop or around the world that have this pieces that I need? Because I can't find them in my country! But I can bring it from the US or Argentina, or something like that! Please can you help me with that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewL Posted July 26, 2022 Share Posted July 26, 2022 Not sure if this can be of help, but here you can see the spare parts that can be bought -somehow and somewhere-. Not sure if it will be possible for you considering shipping costs, etc. https://www.pacparts.com/library/model.cfm?mfg=Casio&model_id=PX560MBE&action=list_part&back=0 There are many boards, none say "mother" or "main", so I'm not sure which one the technician referred to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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